Other Honda Civic Parts and ProductsPost new products, talk about parts other than Honda Civic electrical, drivetrain and Suspension. This forum is only for Other Honda Civic Parts and Products.
heylo all . i have a V-AFC II but dont relly know how to use it .
could anyone help me out with the terms ?
first off , i have
1) turbo boost going up till 4 psi.
2) stock injectors , fuel pump .
1) WAT DOES THE correction mean ? cor :
2) wats v/t prs. and wat should b the settings according to the setup i have ?
3) wats v/t unmatch ? settings?
4) wats H -> L AND L <- H settings ?
5) and another settings which i for got where i can define the rpm's i think
also , the settings on my vafcII are really high on the lvt and hvt . the settings are allmost going up to + 12 - +18 according to some guys , these settings are way to high! but i seem to have no problems except tht when i start my car (when the engine is cold ) , my car knocks and seems to boggle and then switchs off as if it wasnt getting enough fuel .
Did you get the car dyno tuned for the proper a/f ratio? The vafcII isn't the best thing for turbo.
correction refers to the percent that the fuel curve is adjusted depending on throttle position. My wide hi vtec is mostly around +4, but the highest I've seen the correction is 2% at WOT.
The vt stuff is all for changing vtec engagement. The L-->H H-->L is actual vtec engagement. It's recommended to use the stock vtec engagement, since it should only engage at WOT when other conditions are met.
The rpm ne values can be adjusted so that fuel level can be set differently. Basically a way of fine tuning the fuel curve and adding at certain rpm levels.
ok...
tomorrow am gonna make my return fuel line along with a FPR , RSX injectors and a bosh inline fuel pump .
after al these conversions , i am gonna run my car on constant 7 psi .
will i b needing the V-afcII after all these conversions? or shall i just trade it off for a boost controler?
You should trade it for the greddy e-manage. It works and has tons more tuning features. Or if you want to wait, the Hondata reprogrammable ecu will be out for our cars soon. You still need something to tune the car air/fuel ratio even with fpr and return line.
ok...
tomorrow am gonna make my return fuel line along with a FPR , RSX injectors and a bosh inline fuel pump .
You should install a Walbro 255lph and bypass the in-tank FPR. The in-line pump solution is proving to be a risky solution, for whatever reason they are burning out on boosted 7th gens like crazy. You don't want to be making 8 psi and have your pump burn out
not to be mean or anything, but what did you get one for if you don't know how to use it? why didn't you learn about before you got it? just wonderin??
well the reason is tht my turbo setup wasnt pre planned . i just brought my civic around a 1month ago just one day i wanted to start off with this project. i didnt know anything untill i did it my self . Right now also , i am learning from my mistakes .
My bad i know casue its alwaz good to have full knowledge on wat ever u gonna work on.
What? No. You can't tune the a/f ratio without vafcII. I'm starting to build the car again. The dyno was with ported head and header, but since then I've added the fipk again and soon pulleys/jet hot coating by next year.
Um I must be confused about what the VAFC-II does then. So that's what they were tuning, then, was the A/F ratio? The VACF-II stays in your car permanently, correct?
Yes, it connects to your ecu and comes on every time the car is started. It monitors engine functions like voltage, rpm, throttle position (up to wot), and correction. They dyno the car first to get a readout of the air/fuel ratio. Then they adjust the fuel curve by adding corrections at defined rpm increments to level out the ratio to a straight line. Basically you want 14.7:1 I think for the best combustion reaction.
