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Hey Ironfist, do you think the heat shield will fit over the aftermartet header? It's supposed to keep heat in the pipes and out of the engine bay for better performance.
Also, I've heard that you need to replace a gasket or something when installing the header. Not sure, though.
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the heat shield did not fit when i changed my header cause the bottom bolt has no place to go and the shield will then rattle because it is only secured with two bolts
Originally posted by IronFist Maybe. I've avoided getting an exhaust because they're really expensive in relation to the amount of gains you get. Plus, I don't want one with a tip bigger than 3", which is hard to find. And finally, they're noisy and attract cops.
But if I found a cheap, quiet, lightweight, small-tipped, gain producing exhaust I'd totally buy it
Good luck finding a tip under 3''. Just get a muffler that you like off of ebay or something and go to a muffler shop and get 2 1/4'' piping. A whole lot cheaper than a cat-back and just as good anyways. The only thing is if you want to eventually get a downpipe-style hi flow cat then you are going to have to get your piping redone. But if you get a cat-back it just bolts right on the the stock cat. Since mine is welded to the cat and I have to get it redone since I want to get the megan racing hi flow cat. It's really deep in low rpm but what I noticed is when I am engaged in VTEC I get a buzzing noise. I don't think that you get that if you have a non VTEC because I have heard them rev and it just gets deeper and deeper in later RPMs.
The heatshield won't fit with an aftermarket header. As hypnotic7thgen said, there's no lower bolt to hold it on. I have a heatshield on my FIPK II anyway so I'm not that worried about it.
As for the gasket, my stock one was fine. I had about 17,000 miles on my car when I installed the HP header. Just be gentle taking the stock header off and you should be able to reuse it.
Originally posted by streetglower I have always heard that if you just get a top portion header, that it wont actually give you any power, that the only way to get power out of the header is getting the top portion and downpipe, is this true?
i dont think this is true, only because, as far as i know, our downpipes are 3" anyway, i could be wrong, but i believe i read that up here .... the thing thats causing the bottleneck is the cat .... so thoretically, get the top portion header, and get a high flow cat (if your state will allow it to pass emissions)
edit: i just realized the date of the last post, lol im a lil behind
From what I read the downpipes for our cars are 2.66 inches or something close to that.
I was wondering if a megan racing downpipe off ebay would fit the hp top portion? I think the opening on the downpipe where the header and downpipe connect is like 2.5". Anyone on the site have that setup?
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anybody know where to get a downpipe that fits the dc sports header, and by the way i would not say it sucks in fact i saw definite power gains when i installed it, even with the rest of my exhaust being stock
Originally posted by HEBEGEBZ Ironfist, I have a question. Can you remove the stock header without removing bolt #5 (ref to your 1st post)? My a$$ double threaded it I think.
If I remember correctly, all bolt 5 does is hold the heatshield on. But, I think you might have to remove it to get access to the other bolts you need. 5 is the hardest to get off. If you absolutely can't get it, and you aren't concerned with destroying your heatshield, you can possibly undo the top bolts and then bend the heatshield back to get access to the bolts under it.
Sorry I don't remember more accurately. It was 3 months ago that I did the mod.
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K&N FIPK II / HP Top Portion Header / Neuspeed Front Upper Strut Bar / RSX 19mm Rear Sway Bar
Generic Rear Upper Strut Bar / 15" Silver Rota Slipstreams (11.8lbs) / 205/60/15 Falken ZE-512's
