Marbles

Hello all ,

I have just joined your forum in the hope that someone might be able to lend me some advice on my problem.

I have a 2006 Honda Civic ES 1.8 and up until 2 weeks ago the alarm (factory) was working perfectly but suddenly the lights stopped flashing when I locked the car with the remote central locking and nor is the little red light flashing anymore on my dash. So the central locking is working but it appears that my alarm has somehow been disabled.
I tried setting off the alarm by opening the car with the key as oppose to the remote central locking but it made no difference whereas before the alarm would go off if that happened.

Anyone got an idea what could be the issue or do I need to bring it to a dealer?

Thanks very much,
M

ezone

I have no idea what version of our (USA) cars here would be like what you have there.

Sounds like it may be in Valet mode (if it is even possible, here that may apply on an 05 or older), or it may have a bad hood latch switch. A bad hood latch switch keeps the system from arming. I'd probably start with the hood latch.

There should be one connector coming from the hood latch.
Ohm check it in both the latched and released positions, make sure it changes states (zero ohms/open circuit).

Gunner

Could it be a fuse?

ezone

Doubt it, OP said his power locks still work with the remote.

jordan1794

Check and make sure that all the doors do lock when you try to arm the system.I had a fender bender and when they were fixing the bumper they had to remove one of the panels to take the door off for painting,when they put it back on a tiny piece of plastic got lodged in the locking mechanism,this was enough to keep the door from locking,and my system from arming.
Only took them 2 minutes to fix
(By the way,shitty shitty shitty place that repaired my car,will never go there again...in addition to this locking issue my window wouldn't roll all the way down,had to get that fixed too...parents wanted to go with the insurance preferred repair shop...I wanted bruces super body shop...parents pay for the insurance,so they won :/)

ezone

So you are saying it really cost extra to have the work done correctly.


Mediocre: It's the new "OK"!



(It's not just your area, it's everywhere.)

Marbles

Thanks for the advice. I think you're right, your version of Honda Civic is probably not even the same as mine. Below is a link to the same car as mine, it isn't mine but it's the exact same model just to give ya an idea.
I have reopened and closed all of the doors, the hood and the boot (trunk) several times and it still didn't arm. As mentioned, when I press the "lock" button on the remote it does lock and unlock as normal but there are just no flashing lights nor the red alarm light on the dash is flashing to let me know the car is armed.
As I am only a dummy when it comes to car parts and mechanical things I havent a clue what you mean with "ohms"
http://www.google.ie/imgres?q=Honda+...1t:429,r:4,s:0

Marbles

Indeed, the car still locks/unlocks fine with the remote, just no flashing indicators and the alarm doesnt appear to be working even when I lock myself inside the car by pressing remote lock or if I remote lock the car, then try open it with key the alarm used to go off but it doesnt do that now either.

Marbles

Cheers for the tips but I have reopened and closed all of the doors, the hood and the boot (trunk) several times and it still didn't arm. As mentioned, when I press the "lock" button on the remote it does lock and unlock as normal but there are just no flashing lights nor the red alarm light on the dash is flashing anymore after I lock the car to let me know the car is armed.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

I checked my 2010, The light on the dash will not light if either the hood or the trunk is open (also the parking lights do not flash, or a horn beep)

Check and make sure your trunk light is working as it should, trunk light and trunk open dash indicator.
Next would be the hood switch, They are a small microswitch and have caused plenty of problems. If you open the hood you will see a 2 pin connector and 2 wires clipped to the metal frame across front at backside, you can disconnect this connector (has a release tab) then see if the dash alarm indicator and system work with it disconnected.

Edit: The wire colors for the hood switch wiring are (1) Light Blue and (2) Black. You can see the colors near the connector.

ezone

Yep, that's different. Cool.


Let us check out your hood latch switch:

Lift the bonnet (hood), look for the connector near the hood latch as mentioned.

You may have to remove the plastic panel that covers the area around the hood latch to expose and locate its wires. Ours (the plastic panel) are fastened with 2-piece push pins, a tiny screwdriver will separate the 2 halves and the fastener will release



Latch will look similar to this (I'm just finding pics on the net since I really have no idea what yours looks like, but they all are similar in design and function):


There should be a wire attached to the latch, like this

The wire connector should be clipped SOMEWHERE. You need to find it. Some are well hidden.


Now, we don't really know which electrical design your switch operates as, so we try simulating the switch both ways that it operates electrically, with a jumper wire:
Separate this connector from the vehicles' wire loom (wiring harness).


Doors all closed?
Try to work the alarm, see if lights flash and horn beeps when you use your remote fob.
If it works now, great. Stop. We are finished inspecting. You need a latch.


(In the next couple of steps after this first one (if necessary), we will work with the connector attached to the vehicles' loom, not the one that originates from the latch.)



If the alarm did not work yet, then obtain a jumper wire (a small plain uncoated paper clip would suffice, bend into a "U" shape)

insert it into the vehicles' loom connector contacts (NOT the connector attached to the latch) to connect them together
(or touch the paper clip to both terminals at the same time, since I don't know what type of terminals it uses) Whichever you have, you bridge the connection with the wire.



I know this is not the hood latch connector, but this is the method to use, insert the jumper wire (paper clip) so the 2 terminals are connected

(If you happen to find the connector that looks like this in your own car, do NOT do this to it!)


Doors still closed?

Now see if the alarm honks and flashes the lights when you push the lock button on the remote.

If all works, you need the latch.

jordan1794

I live in virginia,we have a state law that says the insurance has to pay for ANY shop of my choosing for the repairs,so long as the damage is covered under my policy(which it is,full coverage),however they won't guarantee the work done unless it's at a "preferred" shop.Of course this came in handy when they screwed up,but I don't think I would have had the issue had we taken it to a higher quality shop in the first place.

ezone

I know of both types of shops here too.

I occasionally do some work for one that resembles your experience, it's amazing (gasp) what some of the work looks like that they let roll out of their shop sometimes.


I also know that the fine and upstanding shop guarantees their work no matter who pays the bill. It's only right to do business that way IMHO.

I spent nearly 10 years with a Benz/Porsche/Mazda/Audi dealer. I saw who did the A-1 top quality body and paint work every time, no doubt about it.
When I wanted my lowrider painted, guess who got my keys. I didn't ask a price either, and I told them to take their time. They are the only other people that have driven the truck since I have owned it.

ezone

Also
So their "preferred" is probably the cheapest?

Gunner

^ probly as with most things its about the lowest bidder..

jordan1794

Yes,their preferred is the cheapest.