mouacx

EZONE, I have a 2011 Honda Civic AT, 144K miles. I am receiving P0756. That is the only code I see when scanning. Two weeks previous to this failure, I noticed that the AT took a little longer to shift into the next gear. It finally went out on me this yesterday. It was driving fine, and then at a stop light the car just jerked while I had my foot on the brake. Once the light turned green and as I accelerated I began to notice harsh shifts that i've never encountered before. I drove it another quarter mile and stopped. 30 minutes later, I decided to drive it again. It drove fine for the first quarter mile, then the "D" light started to blink. Finally, the engine light came on. FYI, I change my fluid annually and I do it during the christmas break (~30K Mi/Yr highway mile). So its definitely due for a trans fluid drain and refill.

Based on what i've read from the above I will drain and use a strainer to look for excessive debris. I will make sure the wiring to solenoid B is OK and also make sure no water is inside the connector. I do not have a HDS (Honda Diagnostic System). Is that something I need to troubleshoot the solenoid B or is there an alternative way I can test solenoid B? Any other thoughts that could help me troubleshoot whether my transmission needs to replaced or not would definitely be appreciated. I do not want to take my car to the stealership because i'm a DIY and most importantly, how certain will they be if they say my transmission needs to be replaced? Please let me know the process your would recommend for troubleshooting this type of issue.

ezone

Moving post to its own thread, as it appears to be unrelated to the thread you posted in.


P0756 is defined as "shift solenoid valve B stuck off".

The PCM monitors the shaft speed sensors, if the trans misses a shift or an internal failure causes some wrong gear ratio to be read in the speed sensors, the PCM is programmed to report a shift valve problem in some instances.

Example: If the computer commanded 1st gear but the trans took off from a stop in third gear, that could cause the code you have.

IOW just because it has a code for it does not mean it's the actual cause.



========

You may need some diagrams and service info for this.

I found a diagram that shows a green/white wire for SSV-B, when looking at the multi-wire connector that goes through the trans case. On the inside of the trans it's supposed to be an orange wire.

Ohm check 12-25 ohms.

You can use 12v+ on a jumper wire to manually operate the valve, hear if it clicks every time power is applied. If it clicks then in theory it is not really stuck. If no click there is a problem.
(If you are not sure of the click, you can compare to another identical shift valve in the group of four.)

You could attach a voltmeter to the wiring and drive it around, but you may need more info to know when it is supposed to be operating. If it does anything at all on the meter, at least you would know the computer is still attached to it electrically.



The four shift control solenoid valves are INSIDE the transmission, but there is a removable cover if access is deemed necessary.

===========


DO the fluid drain through a fine paint strainer. If metal or excessive clutch debris is found, that's a bad sign.

mouacx

Thanks EZone.. I found the civic repair manual @ civic.hondafitjazz.com/manual.html. I'll search through to see if I can find the diagrams.

mouacx

I drained the fluid through a fine paint strainer (from home depot) and there was no metal or excessive clutch debris that I could find. The magnetic drain bolt had its normal shavings stuck to the magnet, but it was very minimal as I do this every year and it appears to be normal.


I browsed through the service manual and found the "A/T clutch pressure solenoid valve B test". I will go through the steps that are outlined to see if the SSV-B is in working order. I didn't have time to do this today because I had to get the car towed 50 miles to my home. I will have to wait for Friday until I can get back under the hood.


I will eventually have to buy a HDS since I own a 11' Honda Civic and 14' Honda Odyssey so it should pay for itself since I hate going to the dealership. Do you recommend a place to buy a HDS?

ezone

HDS is now a software program that is installed on your own laptop.
Then you would have to buy an interface of some sort to link the laptop to a vehicle.
And probably purchase a subscription to get it to work.

Find out more:

Service info:
https://techinfo.honda.com/
Interface:
https://honda.snapon.com/HondaAcura/...temId=53561297
Scanner software:
http://estore.honda.com/service-expr...scriptions.asp

mouacx

EZONE, Are you sure ohm check is 12-25 ohm? Looking at the manual for 2006 civic, it says "3-10 ohm." (http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HT...223FEAT20.html). Anyways, I measured 6 ohms. Can you confirm this for me since I have a 2011 Honda civic ex? I also took out the solenoid. I apply 12V to each solenoid B and C and I can hear them click and I can see the valve move on both solenoids B and C. If I don't see any debris or blockage on the ATF joint pipes and everything that is visible inside solenoid B and C are clean, does that mean my tranny is BAD? I'm coming quickly to the conclusion that my transmission has failed me.

ezone

According to my info found under testing and replacement, the four shift solenoid valves all should ohm check at 12-25 ohms.

Just looked up the 2006 car with R18A1 engine, it shows the same spec resistance too..... IF you find otherwise, please let me know.

I've looked in the paper service manual and the electronic service info, they both have identical info on this one.

I suggest: Check resistance on the other three shift solenoid valves and confirm if the one in question is the same or different from the rest.

Is your meter ground lead connected to battery neg post, and you are using the other lead to probe with?
Are you checking at the multi-wire connector in the trans case, or did you take the cover off to access each individual solenoid?
Multi-wire connector is unplugged while you check the terminal(s) in the trans case?

mouacx

I removed the entire clutch pressure control solenoid from the transmission. Solenoid B and C are one piece. I'm probing the two pins inside solenoid B (I'm not probing any wires). Both solenoid B and C measure 6 ohms respectively. I haven't removed solenoid A, thus I haven't measured the resistance yet.


According to what I found online:: http://civic.hondafitjazz.com/A00/HT...223FEAT20.html, it says "3-10 ohm". This was for a 2006 civic. Could you check out the link above and let me know if it's legit?


Thanks for your quick responses EZONE. I really appreciate your help!! I have lot's of experience swapping EG/DA/DC/EF... but since I have a family now I got away from the game. Just trying to get my daily commuter back on its feet so I can get to and from work. Should've never bought a auto but the wifey said she wanted to drive it too. What a bust!

ezone

Yo, why does your info have a W instead of an ohm symbol (omega)?

I really can't comment on the accuracy of either source of information. Even factory info sometimes has mistakes.
You positive about that?

Staring at my wiring diagrams, there appears to only be a single wire terminal on each of the 4 solenoids. B has an orange wire inside the trans. The body of the solenoid is the ground (chassis ground, thus connecting your black meter lead to battery neg post for all resistance checks).

All I have to go on right now is printed material. I can't see what you see.
These were INSIDE the trans, not bolted on the outside?
This all sounds wrong here. I think you may be checking the wrong parts.

Got some pictures you can post?

mouacx

sorry, couldn't figure out how to post. removed link.

mouacx

mouacx

mouacx

mouacx

Please enlighten me EZONE. Am I really looking at the wrong solenoid?! These solenoids B and C are just attached to the top of the transmission housing. Six bolts holding these two solenoids. No room to probe the pins so I took off the entire assembly as you can see in the pics.

Did you see the 3-10 ohm (omega) in the picture above? I don't know where you saw the "W"? PC issues on my side or your side.. who knows with this url stuff.


Sorry for all the confusion but hope this sheds some light so that you can identify if we're looking at the same solenoids!

mouacx

mouacx

ezone

Standard: 3-10 W
^^that's what I copy/pasted from your info link. Damn computers.


Your info link does not tell me where it started, I can't tell what code took you to that page but now that I look it does not match.....the names are different.
..and your pics confirm what I thought:

Those are the wrong solenoid(s) for this code.

Those are called "clutch pressure control" solenoids.
You need the four "shift control" solenoids. They are INSIDE the trans.

ezone

The four shift control solenoids are

#18 (x2)
#19 (x2)



If you find these in a catalog, ignore the names listed in the catalog. They don't match the service manual nor wire diagrams.....again, that's normal for different departments to completely agree on names like this.

mouacx

S**T. I messed up and looked at the clutch pressure control as you stated! Ok, I'll look at the manual again to make sure I find the shift control solenoids.

ezone

See the parts diagram above for solenoids.... I could not find a good pic on a google search.


There's ONE connector with 8 terminal locations (but only 6 wires) in it that connects to the trans case pass-through connector (harness) to connect all the internal electrical items.

ezone

Made one from a pic I took during an engine block replacement.

Blow this up if you have to.

mouacx

Thanks for the pic above.. Now I found the right troubleshooting guide and yes it says 12-25 ohm. Sorry to waist your life away. I sincerely apologize! Drinking a couple beers and I can't wait until first light and for it to warm up a little before I get my hands dirty again. Thanks again EZONE!


P.S. can I drop my car off at your shop? I'm in the central coast of CA. (crossing fingers you're near by)

ezone

Drink about 19 beers for me please.

Cuz a 12 pack was just a tune up.

speedy25

The EXACT ohmage usually isnt a problem. You are mostly looking for a short or open. Also many inexpensive meters dont measure small ohms accurately. As pointed out, if they are all similar you're good to go.

Have fun in your fixing.

-SP

mouacx

This is how I'm checking ohm's.

mouacx

I use a alligator clip from +12V and then I use the ground on the solenoid body. I can hear it click and I also did this on both solenoids A & B. They work in the same fashion. I didn't find any debris. Looks like this is the end of the road! Looks like it'll take a lot of time to swap a new trans in. FML!

ezone

All 4 solenoids have the about same resistance? Ugh.

I would not have taken the solenoids out to test, I would have done it from the connector on the outside of the trans...but it sounds like your end result is the same. Cussing.
Good luck.

mouacx

I did it from the connectors both resistance and +12V. Resistance measured within specification and the clicking was clearly heard for all the solenoids. My heart wasn't content so I pulled out the cover and yanked out both solenoids (A & B) because they were held by the same bolt. Plus, testing two solenoids confirms how they should work (if one was to have a failure). However, everything tested fine and worked the same whether you did it from the 8 pin connector or from the solenoid itself (single orange wire for solenoid B as you had mentioned).


After expecting the worse outcome, I decided to mickey mouse things back together so I could drive it to Honda to get it scanned to make sure that this was the only code. I warmed up the car, drove it a few blocks and no check engine light. I decided to drive it on a county highway road 55mph. Did a few miles and came back home. Drove it around town for another 5 miles, no check engine light and trans seems to be shifting ok. I put the pedal to the medal and the car shifts fine. Tried D3, drives fine. Tried 1st gear to 2nd to D3, to D4, all seems good. Well, I'm going to drive it around town tomorrow to see if I can get the transmission to fail again. It won't do me any good to get my car scanned if I can no longer get the check engine light to come on.


Anyways, I already bought a used transmission for just under $400 shipped. It says it has 59K mi and was from the same year vehicle as mine (2011). I was going to take the transmission out tomorrow but now I'm really frustrated because the car is now bipolar.


I owe you a beer EZONE. Let me know when you're in Santa Barbara, CA.

ezone

Ya know how when you finally get to the dentist your tooth suddenly quits hurting?
Yeah. The car knows.

I'll be in LA/Torrance for a few days real soon LOL.

mouacx

I've put 200 miles on it.. Transmission is still running fine. Safe travels in LA and cheers!