nirvanaguy

Hi guys,
Last week I noticed when I turned my car on, it started making this REALLY loud rumbling/vibration noise coming from the dash/engine area. My steering wheel physically vibrates and the body of the car itself is vibrating aggressively as well. However, this ONLY occurs when I first start up the car and when I'm in Park/Reverse/Neutral gears. When I'm in the Drive gear, it's very subtle when I'm driving down hill, but Reverse is definitely the worst and most audible (as can be heard in the clip I've attached).

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B0...DA3bThLYV92UUU

The thing that bothers me is that when I start driving on the highway, it no longer becomes apparent if I'm at a stoplight and put my car in park or whatever. When I've arrived at work, my car will sit in the parking lot for ~8 hours and the noise can't be replicated when I get back in. The next morning, the noise/vibration recurs. If anyone could provide any insight as to what might be wrong i'd really appreciate it. I do regular oil changes and my car is nearing 115k miles.


Thanks again
Greg

mikey1

hard to tell from that, but i would put my 50 cent bet on a tranny/torque converter issue

ezone

Engine mount on the passengers fender has collapsed. Replace it.

nirvanaguy

You're awesome! I read up reviews and that sounds like its it as well. How do you know its the passenger side fender? Is this the part you were referring to??

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...=Anchor&mc=ANR

Thank you again!!!!

ezone

Because it's the one that always goes bad and causes the complaint. There is no need to replace 3 perfectly good mounts, when there is the only one bad.

Absolutely no on the aftermarket part (unless you know ahead of time it is a reboxed OE part), and the item you chose is incorrect anyway.


If you choose to install cheapo aftermarket mounts, you will most likely install even more problems and vibrations.

I would instead refer you to a correct Honda factory part.

If I had any idea what car you had, I could post a link to a Honda parts catalog.

======

To identify the problem with the engine mount, refer to this post:

nirvanaguy

2010 honda civic LX 2 dr coupe!

ezone

Ooooh, you better check your mount as described in the quoted post first. If it's collapsed as shown in the pics, then replace it.

nirvanaguy

So if I'm looking into my engine, it should be the mount on the left side of the engine right? Which part is that here:

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...OUNTS+%28AT%29

ezone

Passengers side.

FYI left and right of any vehicle is determined as you sit in the drivers seat facing forward.

#6.

nirvanaguy

Hi,
This is what mine looks like. Essentially just restign on the rubber assembly - Looks like I need to buy a #6 eh?

ezone

Yeah that's collapsed, it's bad. Replace it.

nirvanaguy

thank you very much for your help! Much appreciated

FistRock

So I had the same issue...
08 civic coupe LX Manual 1.8L
The first picture is the part I checked - was told this was the motor mount. The second picture is the same I see posted in previous comments. And I DO see how that is collapsed. What exactly is that part?

ezone

BOTH parts are parts of the motor mount 'system' used in that location.

One part (upper) is used to control fore-aft movement of the engine under load-- referred to as a 'torque rod' in the parts catalog,

and the bottom piece supports the weight of the engine. THAT'S what I call the motor mount (catalog calls it 'RUBBER ASSY., ENGINE SIDE MOUNTING'), and you need to be able to pick it out in the parts catalog just to make sure you get the part you need.

Some parts department employees can only search for whatever name you call a part, and that only works once in a while.

nirvanaguy

FYI, this is where I got that exact part:


it's listed as OEM and $50 cheaper than i could find anywhere else. There was a similar part for $40 that seemed to get good reviews ( ) but apparently need the drill holes modified. You can take the chance if you want but if you buy the OEM part, it's not hard work. I've found a couple youtube tutorials on how to replace it and it's just about removing a few nuts and parts and then replacing the physical part

ezone

Holy cow, if that's real OEM that's about 15 below dealers cost.

FistRock

You guys and this forum is awesome!
Thanks for the clarification, and I'll post the result in a couple weeks.
Thanks again

ZoSoIV

same problem on mine also 2009 civic coupe EX-L , getting it fixed soon , hey guys that Amazon link says it does not fit my 2009 , so does it work or does anyone have the right part number? And there is another one for 65.00 with good reviews has anyone tried this one

ZoSoIV

I ordered the aftermarket mount , great reviews and 5 year warranty 44.08 shipped

Mad Dog Tannen

I got an auto zone one, Moog I think. Works great, and was super cheap.

ZoSoIV

just checked with autozone 54.00 with lifetime warranty, ,i canceled my Amazon order , thanks

Mad Dog Tannen

Amazon usually has good deals on car parts, I would get the part number from rock auto and paste it in the amazon search and see if it is cheaper, you can get auto zone brands for cheaper on Amazon too (sometimes).

ZoSoIV

well thew autozone was the wrong part , the right part at autozone was 150.00 lol so Amazon it is , i have 3 choices OEM which is out i'm not paying 150.00 , so one of these two ?

#4530 06-2010 Honda Civic DX LX EX Right Engine Motor Mount 50820SVAA05 50820SNBJ02 06 07 08 09 2010...45.00


this one is a 5 year warranty ^^^ or

this one with a lifetime warranty vvvv 65.00


i'm sure both are ok but there are a few reviews where the lifetime part went bad within a couple years , might as well save the 20.00 and get the 5 year part

ZoSoIV

OK mines fixed part was 44.00 off Amazon local shop 45.00 to put it on so 89.00 total , beats paying 400.00 plus dollars at the Stealership!

Wavvyykaa

Hi


Need help

There is this roaring sound from engine compartment when car move off from stationary sounded very rough and happens about 2000rpm onwards.

When driving on highway which rpm is normally above 2000 there is no significant sound but feels a bit of drag when below 40km/hr.

Abit like modified /leaking exhaust sound but my car is stock. Engine is smooth when accelerate at neutral, exhaust checked and not leaking.




This roaring sound will sometimes disappear and it will be smooth like baby but most of time it is around.

Let's say a single trip has 10 traffic lights and I have to pick up from stop 10 times, 7 of the times will have this rough sound and 3 will be smooth.

Tried going to mechanic three times but every time the sound does not appear .




Tried to accelerate When in neutral and is no sound thus engine should be fine and exhaust not leaking.




Honda HRV 2015, 60k km mileage

ezone

Seems like you need to get it to the mechanic while the car is making the noise so he can experience it in person and have a chance to check it out while it's acting up

Visual check under the car for anything obviously out of the ordinary?