SidCivic

Hi Civic Peeps!

My 2015 Honda Civic LX is going in for it's first oil change @ 5,000 miles. I'm searching for a good honest shop, and I am also going to bring my own oil. I want to be sure my oil change is done correctly.

1. What specific questions can I ask the shop to gauge how good of an oil change they might do? Eg - Asking if they change the crush washer with each change.
2. What part of the car, or parts used in the process, or anything else can I look for to determine if the oil change was done correctly?
3. If the maintenance minder in the car reads the same oil life % as before I had the oil change, how can I tell if it's simply because they forgot to reset the minder or if they never changed the oil at all?

Sorry if these are silly questions. First new Civic, and trying to be smart about it from the beginning. Thanks in advance for your opinion!

emich

You want your oil change to be done correctly do it yourself.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Click & Clack used to have a garage/mechanic locater that was reliable for my area.

The MM will need a manual reset.... most shops may not know how.

Go to the dealer, then you will get oem filter and crush washer. (we were allowed to bring in own oil after they dropped Castrol)

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

I would go to a dealer for the best option if you don't want to DIY. Check reviews online.

You can tell if they changed the oil because it will be clear on the dip stick as oppose to black. The filter will look new (clean) but they can clean your old one and make it look new on the outside.

jordan1794

In my area at least, going to the dealership cost the same for oil changes as the independent shops. Pretty certain the dealership uses better oil/filters too.

(My dealership charges $30, but almost always have a coupon on their site for $25 or $20)

RIPSAW

I don't blame you. When I go to Red Lobster, I carry in my own fish.

Dakota21601

I have gotten to the point where I do anything/everything I can myself. I have been using Amsoil for almost a decade in every vehicle I have owned. Did the scheduled 1 year/15 or 25k mile changes and have even tore the engines apart I have used it in for whatever job needing done (ie timing belts/valve cover gaskets), and they have been pristine. I have never had a major issue in anything I have used Amsoil in such as rod bearings, rings, etc, but I did replace an oil pan gasket in a 98 Accord I had and the bottom end of that motor was pristine as well. It has more than made up the cost of the floor jacks/stands, oil drain pan, wrenches etc. I do a full change one year, filter swap/top off the next, then a full change again the next year. Costs me an average of about $40/year and 20 minutes of time. Well worth learning. Not to mention the money I have saved in MPG savings. My 04 Civic 5 speed I had jumped up about 4mpg with a full Amsoil conversion and I am averaging 36mpg in my 08 now. I just got 410 miles on my last tank before filling up. And that's rarely below 70mph on the highway and no ***** footin in town. I am sure I could up that a few if I thought about it.

SidCivic

Craig W - Thanks for the specific tips! I checked Click & Clack on cartalk and will call the dealers tomorrow.

GolNat - Am checking my dipstick before and after the oil change. Thanks for the smart suggestion!

Jordan - Checking for dealer coupons now, thanks!

Dakota - Thanks for the detailed specific advice on your experience with Amsoil!

mac25

I am a Lubrication Tech. I work at Mobil 1 so...

The dealer may be cheaper, because the Honda dealerships (at least here in Vancouver) factor in you oil changes for some warranties when they sell the vehicles.

The dealerships discount the oil change heavily because they have already charged you.

That 2015 honda must run 0w20, which is only available in synthetic, which means it is going to cost quite a bit if you use a Lube shop.

As well nothing is due to be serviced until the fuel injectors at 24,000km. So don't let them sell you anything other than an air filter which might be dirty.

Make sure when you phone in to a lube shop that it is Warranty approved. Mobil 1, Mr. Lube and Penzoil are. As well make sure that the shop has a warranty stamp to stamp your warranty book with.

Warranty shops are usually more expensive than other quick lube shops because they must train their employees at seminars to learn new warranty spec, the shops must also carry warranty approved oils. (many non-warranty shops either lack the knowledge or just want to make a quick buck and will pump in any oil the customer wants... even if the customer is asking for an item which will void the warranty).

As well if memory serves that year's reset procedure goes like this

1: engine off but ignition on
(key start will be in the second position), if you are push button start take your foot off the brake then push the button twice.

2: navigate with the select button on your DIC (digital input center) to "oil life %"

3ush and hold "reset" for 10 seconds

4: the DIC will now flash, let go and then hold the same reset button for 5 seconds.

ezone

Our cost difference for bulk 0w20 vs 5w20 is quite small, but we still charge a few dollars more for the oil change with 0w20.
We get a lot more for Mobil1 oil.

Huh? That's not in any owners manual.

The first maintenance item that comes up when following the maintenance minder system is air filters (Item #2), it usually first shows up along with the oil change and tire rotate at the service interval between 22k and 30k.
Good point.
If OP is obtaining his own oil, he needs to be aware that wording on some products can be quite misleading. "Recommended" is not the same as "Approved".

Resetting oil life/maintenance minder is done on the IMID, using the buttons on the steering wheel.

The TPMS system reset/relearn is also in the IMID menus, it must be done whenever tires get rotated or pressures get checked and adjusted.

SidCivic

Hi Mac,

Thanks for another detailed informative post! Two questions:

1. Are you saying that the shop, the oil, or both should be warranty approved? I am using the dealer, the OEM oil filter / crush washer both provided by the dealer, and my own Amsoil Signature Series OW-20 Synthetic Motor Oil purchase direct from Amsoil w/ receipt saved. Are all of these warranty approved?

2. What's a warranty book, and where do they stamp it? My warranty came in the form of a PDF on a CD that was in the glove box when I bought the car new from the dealer. I scrolled through the PDF, and I do not see any service history booklet that I can print out. If I keep the receipts & paperwork from the dealer whenever I have service done - is that enough for a warranty claim? Or do I still need a stamp in a physical service history booklet?

Thanks for all your help!

ezone

The oil is important.

The shop is not important, but documentation of service is--- especially if you don't use the dealership.


It's one of the thin blue books in the glovebox.

Probably says 'maintenance' or 'service history' on it.
There are places to write each service and put a rubber stamp or embossed stamp all through the book.

SidCivic

Ezone - Thanks a lot for your detailed answer! Because of you, I returned the Amsoil, and will stick with OEM honda oil for the duration of my 60k warranty period. I called the dealer and Honda about the service history booklet, and they both said they no longer offer these. I double checked this here: http://www.helminc.com/helm/Result.a...elected_media=

and sure enough they don't make the service booklet for my 2015 Civic. I did order the printed warranty booklet & owner's manual free of charge from Honda directly though.

Follow Up Questions

1) Is it okay to use the OEM blended synthetic or should I pay the extra for the full synthetic in my car?

2) Does the OEM blended synthetic void my warranty? Most of the Honda dealers quote me the blended synthetic oil change price unless I specifically ask for the price of an oil change with full synthetic. I hope they wouldn't offer this to a customer if blended voids the warranty, but you never know so I want to double check with you.

Thanks in advance for all your help!

ezone

I was actually wondering if it's still there --right after posting that....I should have known this since I check in tons of new cars right off the trucks --- but I don't pay close attention to WHAT is in there, I only check THAT a package of books is in there. LOL


Our PDI checklist USED to be inside one of the thin blue booklets, but a couple years ago Honda changed how they made our PDI checklists and I haven't really fumbled through the glovebox materials ever since.


Oops. Oh well.
IMO it's not worth the expense.
IMO it's not even worth the expense to have them use the bottled oil (unless you are unsure of what may be coming out of the bulk tank).

IMO the bulk oil from Honda is fine, as long as that's what they really use.
I use it in my 12 (0w20), the 05 CRV, and it's now in the 07 Fit I just bought for my GF.
I use it (5w20) in the rest of the family cars I take care of, I used it in my old Park Avenue, my mower, etc.
I don't use it in my truck or my Harley though. My truck does not have roller valvetrain, it needs a little more help than what this oil gives.

Oil tech has improved exponentially over the last 25 years.

25 years ago if you let an engine go 20,000 miles without changing oil, you would have an oil pan full of black pudding.

The oil we use now--I have seen it go 20-25k and still be just as runny as the day it went in.
Black, sure, but not tar sludge or pudding.

We have zero bottom end problems using the bulk oil that's delivered every week through Hondas oil supply program.
We (my dealer) have customers rolling along with 200, 300, even 400k using the bulk oil we use.


Any oil that meets the specs will go the full length (mileage) the maintenance minder will allow.

The minder cannot actually measure your oil (or air filters or anything else) directly. It's all based on a model, and it relies on proper spec fluids and doing services when it dictates, and stuff like that. If you do stuff at other times or mileages, you should keep your own records of that so you know when to ignore the minder.

Your maintenance minder system watches how you drive and conditions, and adjusts the oil change interval accordingly.
Some drivers might be told to change oil at 3000 if they only do 5 minute trips,
others may be allowed to go 12,000 if they only do interstate driving.
Those are the extremes I've seen here at my dealer in the rust belt.

My own car goes about 5.5 miles twice a day, my minder pops on just before 5000 miles if that's all I drive.

You DO need to check the oil every once in a while, just to make sure it does not run low.
Absolutely not.
You can get bulk oil synthetic blend (provided the dealer uses the right stuff, I cannot say all dealers do)
you can get synthetic blend oil in quart bottles with the Honda name on it,
and you can get Full Synthetic in quart bottles with the Honda name on it.
You can get Mobil1, Pennzoil Platinum, and others that meet specs, we keep Mobil1 on hand here for people that want it.


By the way, I have not had a situation where a higher-up demands an oil sample test during my time at this Honda dealership.....but it can happen.
I've heard that since GM now specifies oils meeting the DEXOS spec, they have been wanting oil analysis done on some warranty jobs.

HTH

RIPSAW

Since we are doing oil, I run Mobile 1 full synthetic 15-50 car oil in my bike engine and straight gear oil ( Harley's Formula + ) in the primary and transmission. See any problem. Seems to be fine at 45 K but I see a lot of metal on all the magnet indicators ever time.

ezone

I've been running Mobil1 V-Twin 20w50 in mine, all 3 holes.
So far so good. A little bit of fuzzys on the magnets, not a bunch. Only 20k on it though. It seems like I barely ride it anymore.



I've read the twin cam 88 can eat up cam chain tensioner pads? Have you checked into the Harley forums?

RIPSAW

Mine at 30K. Hardly worn. Only problem I have had in 45K was alternator spline went.

ezone

Oh boy.