cranks slow when cold
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In the mornings when it is cold 30*, the engine tries to crank over 1 time and then quits. Then you hear the 'click click sound'. Turn the key and the engine turns over 1 more time and then quits. Then finally the 3rd time the engine turns over slow but starts. It sounds like a bad battery. But it is a new battery and I have changed the negative battery cable. Once the car starts it is fine for the rest of the day. Only have a problem when it is cold around 30*. Any ideas ? It is a 2007 Civic.
Last edited by cody22; 12-27-2014 at 07:42 AM.
#3
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: cranks slow when cold
It sounds like a bad battery. But it is a new battery
Also, you need to realize that if something is drawing power from the battery overnight, that's running it down. Doesn't mean it's bad, just ran down. Doing this repeatedly can ruin the battery though.
Attach voltmeter to the battery and see what the voltage is WHILE cranking it on a cold start. What's the voltage drop to when it just clicks?
Remove key, close doors. Attach an ammeter to the battery and wait 15 minutes. Draw should be approx. 30mA or less after all the computers go to sleep.
and I have changed the negative battery cable.
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This is a new problem. But it only happens when it around 28* or less.
I replaced the battery with a new one, replaced the negative battery cable and cleaned the positive battery cable. The ground cables are all very clean but I removed them and cleaned them with a wire brush.
Before I start the car the battery voltage reads 12.6 Volts. While cranking the voltage drops to 10.6 Volts.
I will measure the current draw while the car has sat for 15 minutes to see if the battery is being drained.
I replaced the battery with a new one, replaced the negative battery cable and cleaned the positive battery cable. The ground cables are all very clean but I removed them and cleaned them with a wire brush.
Before I start the car the battery voltage reads 12.6 Volts. While cranking the voltage drops to 10.6 Volts.
I will measure the current draw while the car has sat for 15 minutes to see if the battery is being drained.
Last edited by cody22; 12-27-2014 at 11:46 PM.
#5
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: cranks slow when cold
While cranking the voltage drops to 10.6 Volts.
#7
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: cranks slow when cold
Any idea what the starter amp draw is when this happens?
I guess I'd do a voltage drop test on pos side and then the neg side..
And check the voltage on the small wire or use a jumper to eliminate the ignition switch and PRNDL/NSS.
Here's pics of the small wire that leads to the starter solenoid
Then wild stab at a bad starter?
I guess I'd do a voltage drop test on pos side and then the neg side..
And check the voltage on the small wire or use a jumper to eliminate the ignition switch and PRNDL/NSS.
Here's pics of the small wire that leads to the starter solenoid
Then wild stab at a bad starter?
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Thank You ezone for assisting me. I don't know the current draw of the starter but I will get it and I will do the suggested tests. But since this problem occurs when it the temperature is less than 30*, it may be a few days before I can do these tests.
I agree with you it appears to be the starter, but I can't see how the cold temperature would make the starter not crank or crank very slow..
I agree with you it appears to be the starter, but I can't see how the cold temperature would make the starter not crank or crank very slow..
#9
Re: cranks slow when cold
I'm sorry to bump an old threat but thought it might be better than just starting a new one.
I too am having a very similar problem. I have an 08 civic and it does the same thing when its cold. It has been doing this for at least the last 2 winters and I'm thinking more like the last 3. I have been through 3 or 4 batteries during the last 3 years.
This time I put a new battery in and I got one with 650 CCA instead of 500. I did this approximately 2 weeks ago.
I have put a load tester on the battery and it sits at resting state at around 13V
When I put a load on this battery it reads 10.8V
The alternator charges at 14V
I did ohm readings on the negative battery cable and the other ground that goes from frame to transmission and both read .2 ohm
When I pull the fuse to the fuel pump and try to do a load test on the starter, it will turn over for about 2 to 3 seconds slowly before it either clicks or just stops spinning at all. I have seen the voltage read 11V and 10.8V just before it quits turning over. I can perform this same test 3 or 4 times with the same results before the battery will no longer turn the starter over at all. Funny thing is that the voltage is STILL around 12.8V on the battery in the resting state.
I'm down to thinking I have a bad starter or a bad positive cable leading to the starter. I can still drive the car because it starts in about 1 second however, if it had to turn over for any length of time, I wouldn't be able to start it.
Any help you can give me would be much appreciated.. Thanks in advance!
I too am having a very similar problem. I have an 08 civic and it does the same thing when its cold. It has been doing this for at least the last 2 winters and I'm thinking more like the last 3. I have been through 3 or 4 batteries during the last 3 years.
This time I put a new battery in and I got one with 650 CCA instead of 500. I did this approximately 2 weeks ago.
I have put a load tester on the battery and it sits at resting state at around 13V
When I put a load on this battery it reads 10.8V
The alternator charges at 14V
I did ohm readings on the negative battery cable and the other ground that goes from frame to transmission and both read .2 ohm
When I pull the fuse to the fuel pump and try to do a load test on the starter, it will turn over for about 2 to 3 seconds slowly before it either clicks or just stops spinning at all. I have seen the voltage read 11V and 10.8V just before it quits turning over. I can perform this same test 3 or 4 times with the same results before the battery will no longer turn the starter over at all. Funny thing is that the voltage is STILL around 12.8V on the battery in the resting state.
I'm down to thinking I have a bad starter or a bad positive cable leading to the starter. I can still drive the car because it starts in about 1 second however, if it had to turn over for any length of time, I wouldn't be able to start it.
Any help you can give me would be much appreciated.. Thanks in advance!
#10
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: cranks slow when cold
You found you still have decent voltage at the battery, now check at the starter.
During cranking when the starter quits.....Have someone else crank it for you while you test. (IF you still have good power and ground at the starter motor WHILE IT IS ENGAGED AND OPERATING but low or no starter motor speed, starter is bad)
And..
Google how to do a voltage drop test on the starter circuits.
Or....Cheat:
Get it to quit then jump out and feel all along both battery cables and their connections for a hot spot. Resistance plus load equals HEAT.
Got some jumper cables? Pick one color. Connect it to the neg post of the battery and the other to the engine block. Does it crank better? Bad ground cable(s) or high resistance somewhere in the ground side.
Follow the battery neg cable to the body, it's probably corroded and rusty. Look nearby, there is another ground cable bolted there that goes to the transmission. The other engine ground is attached near the mount on the passengers side.
Pic of those cables with battery and tray removed:
NOTE: I have seen this battery cable issue cause the entire car to go electrically dead when you attempted to crank the engine.
I think you probably just need a starter though. Seems to be somewhat common, though the cold weather issue seems really weird.
During cranking when the starter quits.....Have someone else crank it for you while you test. (IF you still have good power and ground at the starter motor WHILE IT IS ENGAGED AND OPERATING but low or no starter motor speed, starter is bad)
And..
Google how to do a voltage drop test on the starter circuits.
Or....Cheat:
Get it to quit then jump out and feel all along both battery cables and their connections for a hot spot. Resistance plus load equals HEAT.
Got some jumper cables? Pick one color. Connect it to the neg post of the battery and the other to the engine block. Does it crank better? Bad ground cable(s) or high resistance somewhere in the ground side.
Follow the battery neg cable to the body, it's probably corroded and rusty. Look nearby, there is another ground cable bolted there that goes to the transmission. The other engine ground is attached near the mount on the passengers side.
Pic of those cables with battery and tray removed:
NOTE: I have seen this battery cable issue cause the entire car to go electrically dead when you attempted to crank the engine.
I think you probably just need a starter though. Seems to be somewhat common, though the cold weather issue seems really weird.
#11
Re: cranks slow when cold
Thank you, I will perform these tests you recommend this weekend and post my results. I'm afraid if it is indeed the starter im going to need a full day to fix it and she uses it to drive back and forth to work.
#12
Re: cranks slow when cold
Hi, sorry it took me so long to respond. I hooked the jumper cable from the negative post of the battery to the block and it didn't change anything. Before I got to run the next test, the car wouldnt start. No solenoid clicking either. I changed the starter and problem solved just as you and I suspected in the first place. Thanks again for your help!
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