06 AC problem Part II
#1
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Now that I have found the pulley on the compressor to be shagged out I thought I would see if you folks have had to deal with that problem.
Can I....
Replace clutch
Replace compressor
Of course clutch would be easier.. well maybe not. it would only be easier if it can be moved enough for a puller to yank it off, and if that part is even available!
Then there is complete compressor R&R which requires AC system open and close.
Any good pointers from the board?
TIA,
-SP
Can I....
Replace clutch
Replace compressor
Of course clutch would be easier.. well maybe not. it would only be easier if it can be moved enough for a puller to yank it off, and if that part is even available!
Then there is complete compressor R&R which requires AC system open and close.
Any good pointers from the board?
TIA,
-SP
#2
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 06 AC problem Part II
You can buy the pulley / clutch, and coil separate from the compressor.
Clutch and pulley set #4
Field coil set #9
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...%29+%281.8L%29
I have (so far) always got clutch sets replaced without opening the system. I may have to unbolt it from the engine to get room to work, but without removing the lines or discharging the freon.
I also have lots of nifty tools to get the job done.
(I think I am the only person in the shop that can do it this way too.)
Note: Sometimes it can be very difficult to get the pulley bearing inner race to come off of the snout of the compressor. It can become a real tight fit after it has been on there for a few years. I have broken the snout off of a compressor before. Be careful.
I wire up the clutch with a jumper wire, and set up a dial indicator and shoot for 0.5mm gap during reassembly.
HTH
Clutch and pulley set #4
Field coil set #9
http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...%29+%281.8L%29
I have (so far) always got clutch sets replaced without opening the system. I may have to unbolt it from the engine to get room to work, but without removing the lines or discharging the freon.
I also have lots of nifty tools to get the job done.
(I think I am the only person in the shop that can do it this way too.)
Note: Sometimes it can be very difficult to get the pulley bearing inner race to come off of the snout of the compressor. It can become a real tight fit after it has been on there for a few years. I have broken the snout off of a compressor before. Be careful.
I wire up the clutch with a jumper wire, and set up a dial indicator and shoot for 0.5mm gap during reassembly.
HTH
#4
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Well of course a job just CANT be easy....!
Parts ordering was the easy part.
Yes you can remove the clutch without opening the system, BUT you do have to take off the alternator and associated braketry to release the compressor from the block.
Then you will probably have the same problem as I had- The 4mm screw that holds the coil wires out of the way will break off. To drill and re-tap, you have to remove the RH fan to give you enough room to use a standard cordless drill. Arrrgh,
Anyway, its finally back together, even though the boy I worked with on this project messed up the belt tensioner hex. I told him to order a new one.
Of course now there are new problems. AC stays on all the time instead of only on when the console switch is on. How the heck did that happen? Confirmed that is going on, since the compressor was spinning when the engine was running, but not spinning when the compressor power wire was disconnected.
Stuck relay? Or something else dumb that was missed. Anyone have any ideas. I would still like a wiring diagram if someone can PDF it out of a manual.
TIA,
-SP
Parts ordering was the easy part.
Yes you can remove the clutch without opening the system, BUT you do have to take off the alternator and associated braketry to release the compressor from the block.
Then you will probably have the same problem as I had- The 4mm screw that holds the coil wires out of the way will break off. To drill and re-tap, you have to remove the RH fan to give you enough room to use a standard cordless drill. Arrrgh,
Anyway, its finally back together, even though the boy I worked with on this project messed up the belt tensioner hex. I told him to order a new one.
Of course now there are new problems. AC stays on all the time instead of only on when the console switch is on. How the heck did that happen? Confirmed that is going on, since the compressor was spinning when the engine was running, but not spinning when the compressor power wire was disconnected.
Stuck relay? Or something else dumb that was missed. Anyone have any ideas. I would still like a wiring diagram if someone can PDF it out of a manual.
TIA,
-SP
#6
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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Gonna bump this one back into life.
Thanks ezone for the relay tip. Time to go searching for it.
New recent problem is poor airflow out of the vents when the AC is on. Anyone have trouble with the blend doors? You can hear the fan motor change speed with the control ****. I'll also pull the fan motor and see if some rodents have been living rent free, although you usually smell urine when that happens.
-SP
Thanks ezone for the relay tip. Time to go searching for it.
New recent problem is poor airflow out of the vents when the AC is on. Anyone have trouble with the blend doors? You can hear the fan motor change speed with the control ****. I'll also pull the fan motor and see if some rodents have been living rent free, although you usually smell urine when that happens.
-SP
#8
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 06 AC problem Part II
Here's a link: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...ml#post4607306
I'd be surprised if it hasn't burped out a bunch of refrigerant already.
#1) Fix the relay problem first.
If the compressor runs continuously, the evaporator core can freeze solid, therefore reduced or no airflow.
#2) Don't pull the fan. Remove and check the cabin filter first...If it is clogged, that will restrict airflow. Open the glovebox wide (release the locks on the sides to open further), there's a trap door behind it that holds the cabin filter. You will see if mice have been there once you get it out and can look at it.
HTH
Ez1
I'd be surprised if it hasn't burped out a bunch of refrigerant already.
New recent problem is poor airflow out of the vents when the AC is on. Anyone have trouble with the blend doors? You can hear the fan motor change speed with the control ****. I'll also pull the fan motor and see if some rodents have been living rent free, although you usually smell urine when that happens.
If the compressor runs continuously, the evaporator core can freeze solid, therefore reduced or no airflow.
#2) Don't pull the fan. Remove and check the cabin filter first...If it is clogged, that will restrict airflow. Open the glovebox wide (release the locks on the sides to open further), there's a trap door behind it that holds the cabin filter. You will see if mice have been there once you get it out and can look at it.
HTH
Ez1
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Heres the latest-
Relay is good. I can make it click and cycle the compressor by removal/install.
Now the fun part. When the boy had finished replacing the AC clutch, he had hooked up a Vantage scanner and the AC was on. It was NOT on in the car, or on defrost. He shut it off and it came back on by itself. That happened a few times.
My diagnosis is the AC computer is toast. Now where the heck is it!
Cabin filter was replaced a few years back, but I'll pull the glove box and check a few things.
-SP
Relay is good. I can make it click and cycle the compressor by removal/install.
Now the fun part. When the boy had finished replacing the AC clutch, he had hooked up a Vantage scanner and the AC was on. It was NOT on in the car, or on defrost. He shut it off and it came back on by itself. That happened a few times.
My diagnosis is the AC computer is toast. Now where the heck is it!
Cabin filter was replaced a few years back, but I'll pull the glove box and check a few things.
-SP
#10
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 06 AC problem Part II
My diagnosis is the AC computer is toast. Now where the heck is it!
uhh
Cabin filter was replaced a few years back, but I'll pull the glove box and check a few things. -SP
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Ezone still around??
Well this old thread from 2013 had a fix of a used climate control unit. All that was great until today when it went back to its old habits of AC on all the time! Well its hot out right now, so I dont mind. If it cools off before I get another climate control unit I can just unplug the compressor.
The car has over 350k and still rolling, but it has been down on power. A leakdown test has #3 being much weakier than the others, but no crazy noises or excessive oil consumption, so I'll just keep driving it. I suspect a rust problem will finally take it down.
-SP
Well this old thread from 2013 had a fix of a used climate control unit. All that was great until today when it went back to its old habits of AC on all the time! Well its hot out right now, so I dont mind. If it cools off before I get another climate control unit I can just unplug the compressor.
The car has over 350k and still rolling, but it has been down on power. A leakdown test has #3 being much weakier than the others, but no crazy noises or excessive oil consumption, so I'll just keep driving it. I suspect a rust problem will finally take it down.
-SP
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#13
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: 06 AC problem Part II
Same symptom = same problem.. . I'm not sure if new parts were improved to fix this issue or not.
Check and adjust valve clearances, could be the cheapest fix. or not.
and check your airbag recalls. Yes again.
#3 being much weakier than the others,
and check your airbag recalls. Yes again.
#14
Re: 06 AC problem Part II
I have a 2013 Honda Civic. Changed relay, pressure switch, compressor and condenser and it still blows hot air. Drive at 70 mph for 45 mins no change at all.
any suggestions?
any suggestions?
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What do the high/low pressures read?
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If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
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