torontob

Hi everyone,

I have a Honda Civic 4DR DX-G 2009 which I take regularly for oil change (not to dealer but Green & Ross). Was bought on June 2009 and has 83,000km on it today.

In the past few weeks, twice, I noticed that the engine temperature was in RED. I noticed it when I was stranded on the highway at 4 P.M. with my AC set to full and very hot sunny Toronto day.

Both times, I turned off the AC and 2 or 3 minutes after it was down to normal temperatures.

The reason I noticed it was because the AC turned from COLD air to regular wind air (not cold) and that is when I thought man it gotta be really hot outside (and it was....very slow traffic too).

However, this I thought was very abnormal. What do you guys recommend I check? fans? coolant liquid (haven't changed it since I bought the car), or thermostat?

Or do you suggest I take it to dealer for a free checkup? if there is such a thing.

***I noticed on the news that models 2009 -2010 in emirates were recalled for over heating problems.

What do you think I experienced?

Thanks

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Check coolant level, make sure both fans operate when a.c on. There were some cracked block issues...not sure if reached into 09 or not.

torontob

Thanks for the feedback.

I just turned on the car with AC in OFF and none of the fans turned on. When I switched the AC to ON then the passenger fan started spinning. Turning AC off again the fan stopped.

At no time both fans started during my tests.

Does this mean that the driver side fan is not working? or does that fan come on only when the engine is heating up? Can you please confirm?

If you think the fan is a problem then should I be still covered under MFG warranty given the car is under 100,000km and less than 3 years old?

P.S. I don't know how to check the coolent level but I opened the cap and it was green and to the top. Is the right method to check it?

Thanks

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

iirc when a/c one fan will run constant and the other fan will run when the compresssor is engaged. So yes, there should be times when they both run.

If the engine is cold you can pull the radiator cap.
And, what are you doing with green coolant ?? Honda type II coolant is blue.

Bumper to bumper is 3 years or 36k miles. Powertrain is 5 years or 60k miles.

torontob

Yes, that's more like blue than green.

So, I am not sure what the compressor is but I would like to continue testing to see if my both fans come on. Should I drive the car for 30 minutes and then check or is there any other method to check this 100%?

Thanks again

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

The compressor is the heart/workhorse of your a/c system. It is located down low on the drive belt side.

When you 1st fire up the a/c both fans should run together for quite a bit until the compressor starts cycling on and off.

Is it the fan on your passenger side that is not coming on ??

Check fuse #6 and fuse #7 in under-hood fuse box.

torontob

Fan on the passenger side comes on when I turn ON the AC.

Fan on the driver side doesn't come on.

Based on your theory both fans should right RIGHT AWAY when I turn on the AC so my driver side FAN is broken?!

Is that 100% confirmed? time to take it to dealer?

***Fuse 6,7 are non-existant:


Thanks

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

^^^ That is the under-dash fuse box shown.

There is a chart on the underside of cover on the under-hood box.

I would at least check the fuses #6 & #7 before you take it in.

Fan on the drivers side is the radiator fan and should run constant when the a/c is on, passenger side will cycle on/off.

torontob

My bad. Thanks for pointing it out.

I think blue is from #6 and purple is from #7 (rookie mistake; forgot arrangement when I pulled them out)

How do you check if they are good. A visual inspection of the inside metal bar looks the same on both and looks similar to other fuses on the car.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

From what I can see the fuse elements look o.k.... ? Hard to tell from pix. (the thin straight copper, 20 amp slightly thinner than 30 amp) Look them over very closely and maybe see if you can find an ohm meter to test them with.

On my FA1 the 20 amp is closest to the engine.

torontob

My MasterCraft ohm-meter set to OHM RXIK has it's ticket move to the right when I connect the two leads to the two sides of the fuse.

Both display the same behavior. Since one fan works, I am gathering that this behavior means they are both good?!

Anything else left for me to test?

How about I swap the connectors of the fans to test if the cable is a problem?

Cheers

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like the continuity of them is good.

I would bet the plugs are different, and the wiring harness tight.

Would like to have you swap the 2 fan relays.... but they are very tight fitting in the box (shows a tool to remove them)

torontob

As per this:
http://www.8thcivic.com/forums/i-c-e-electrical-security-navigation/2286-fuse-wire-guide.html


6. 20A - Fan Motor
7. 30A - Main Fan Motor - A/T

I tested fuse #6 to be the one responsible for passenger side fan (known as Sub Fan Motor) as I removed fuse #7 and that fan was still working.

Would I have to pay the dealership to check this? What is usually the rule? I will be calling sometime tomorrow.

****When you turn on your 8th gen with AC set to OFF, does you main FAN which is the driver side one start spinning right away?

Thanks again.

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

The factory manual calls the passenger side "A/C Condensor Fan" & the drivers side "Radiator Fan".

I cannot answer the fan on right after shut off... are you saying your inoperative side does actually run after you shut off the engine ??

Likely you have to pay 1 hr diagnostics.

torontob

No, no. No fans stay ON after turn off of the car.

The only FAN that I have seen working (only when AC or Air is ON) is the one on the passenger side. The driver side FAN never comes on when I did my tests.

So, I am wondering if this is the same on your car or other 8th generation cars? Maybe the driver side FAN only turns ON when the car over-heats?

Thanks,

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

The radiator fan (drivers side) should run constantly whenever the a/c is on, and should cycle on and off during warm weather when idling or in stop and go traffic.

torontob

Since playing with fuses (which could be a coincidence) my car has had the Engine Light come on a few times. It also looses power (I notice radio turn off and on). In addition the radio asks for PIN CODE which means it lost power when I turned off the car.

Something serious is happening as when I turn off the car, sometime it doesn't turn on at all and there are no lights on it. It seems it looses battery power. It takes it 5 minutes and then it turns on.

The ph level of battery is fine. Is there anything I can diagnose before I take it for diagnostic to Honda tomorrow?

P.S. what is their fair hourly cost that I should expect to pay for this diagnostic? I am at 86,000KM so within warranty.

Thanks

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Diagnostic is their regular hourly rate which I think nears 100$/hr

torontob

Seems like I need a current test as I noticed my radio go off as I was driving and engine light is on. Honda asked me to drop car for whole day and charge me 1 hour diagnostic. Crossing fingers they don't come up with a $1000 bill for me for a car that is barely two years old.

Do you guys use a diagnostic tool for your cars?

I am a computer tech/programmer so have the right mind for diagnosing things but never dealt with those car diagnostic readers. Do they tell you all and everything or are they just a start?

Thanks