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Not for my 'vic but help n-e-way. stereo not getting power
Ok, starting off, no this is not for my civic but there seem to be quite a few knowledgeable stereo people here so I thought I'd try my luck. I'm in the process of installing some screens in my brother's 93 ranger and something weird happened to his after market head unit. The factory harness is no longer putting out power through the red accessory line. It does still provide current through the constant, but I can't find a line to tap to power his head unit. Right now, I've got a switch spliced from the constant to the head unit power line, but that means that he needs to constantly flip the switch on for his radio, and even when the ignition is cut until he flips the switch again, the radio will remain on.
I'm not electrically stupid, but this one really has me stumped. Please help me out cuz I don't want this to be a permanent solution to his problem. If I remember correctly, the wire from the harness is yellow and black, but I've tore his dash apart and can't find the line.
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so the ignition switched power wire, the red one, did the same thing for the stock stereo?? so then it would be fused on it's own circuit, i think. Check the fuse, before you go trying to find another wire to tap. Then, if that's not the case, and you need another power source that's only on when the ingnition is, try the power for the cig lighter. sorry if i misunderstood your post, but hope this helps.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modoman
the same curiosity some people have with the minds of serial killers, i have with ricers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeX
You don't have a sport car.
"There are more than 550 million firearms now in circulation, one for every 12 people on the planet. The only question, is how can we arm the other 11."
On his truck the cig. is constant. I've checked all fuses, hell I physically pulled each fuse individually and had no blown fuses. Right now I'm thinking about tapping the ignition line, but in doing so, will it still work with accessory? I'd more than likely have to run a multimeter on the line in accessory right?
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If you're going to do all that, i'd spend the time figuring out why the original wire isn't getting power. I assume you checked the connections in the harness, so maybe a break in the wire?? I can't think of any other reasons it would be dead. as far as tapping the ignition, def check to make sure it's live when in acc, and also remember that i believe the HU is getting most of it's power through that wire, so do you really want to be drawing all that off the ignition wire??
__________________ Life is hard. It's harder when you're stupid.
Search, and learn.
Quote:
Originally Posted by modoman
the same curiosity some people have with the minds of serial killers, i have with ricers.
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeX
You don't have a sport car.
"There are more than 550 million firearms now in circulation, one for every 12 people on the planet. The only question, is how can we arm the other 11."
I thought the radio draws most of the power from the yellow constant with the red acting similar to a remote. Hmmm... I dunno... We almost completely took apart his steering column last night and I can't find anything to tap. Any suggestions on a safe wire, or for the time being should I just leave it alone with the switch?
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If you need to re-wire it you can go to the gray/yellow accessory wire at the ignition harness. It should have more than enough current, make sure to fuse it with about a 10A fuse.
The radio's accessory fuse in the car is listed as fuse #11 (15A).
If you need to re-wire it you can go to the gray/yellow accessory wire at the ignition harness. It should have more than enough current, make sure to fuse it with about a 10A fuse.
The radio's accessory fuse in the car is listed as fuse #11 (15A).
Is the color you mentioned for a Ranger? I don't remember seeing that color of a line, but I'll check again when I get home.
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Yeah it is but I just looked a little more in depth and you should use black/light green instead. That way it will work when the car is on and in the accessory position as well. This will be a larger gauge wire and should be ran with a couple of other larger ones as well.