running 2 remote wires off cig lighter

[Byrd]

The question i have is would it be possible to run 2 remote wires to both my amps off the one cig lighter? i have one amp under my seat and one in the back for a sub so could i just splice into the remote wire going to the amp under my seat. when it got to the amp in the trunk will it have enough power to tell the amp to turn on? thanks. also another small question about my amp. i have a kenwood kac-629s amp and have always wondered why there were 2 grounding places on the amp. one next to where the power leads go and one on the line in side of the amp. this was the same on my old system i had (also an alpine amp) does the ground next to the line in go hand in hand together? thanks for the help.

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[kokain00]

hey, your cig lighter will have enough juice to turn both amps on, i've got 2 neons under the dash, my air ride controller, and the power for 2 gauges on mine, my buddy had a kenwood amp that had the same grounding as u were tlaking about i think all he did was run the small ground to the larger one then from there ground it to the frame

[Byrd]

ok cool. thanks for the reply. i had an old kenwood 600 watt amp that i used in highschool and didnt even use the small grounding screw. only used the one next to the power input. it worked fine so who knows why that small one is there.

[notoriouspyro]

Instead of running two lines, why don't you just chain your second amp off your first remote line. It will have the exact same effect with a lot less wire.

[Byrd]

thats what i ended up doing. thanks all

[Eyger]

This may have fixed your problem in the short term, however, when you "daisy chain" or "series" your circuit, you loose voltage every time you step it to another device. So your amp in your trunk may not be operating at proper efficiency. And Im not just talking about loudness. When you run a lower voltage through a smaller wire, you can get reduced resistance depending on the device. I would properly remote wire both of the amps from directly behind the head unit like it should be. you can run a parallel circuit off of that no problem.

[Eyger]

Oh and additionally, you should never really run anything off of splicing an internal circuit in the car. The wires installed are designed to operate only up untill a certian load. If you try to pull too much wattage through the cigarette lighter wiring, you might overload the circuit and melt wires. This is of course if you continue to add things and run it off one circuit.

[Eyger]

Im sorry, I should have posted everything together: The proper way to run a wire would be, for a source; tapping the car battery and running the wire through the firewall. It's actually not that difficult. In your case, the remote wire should really be pulled from the head unit. if not, you still have a live wire supplying power to amps. But hey if it worked, it worked!

[christmaspie]

Which could supply more current: the transistorized remote turn on output of a deck or a 15A fused accessory lighter?

If you find your amplifiers cut in and out you could just add a relay to the remote turn on wiring behind the deck.

[lil_brwn_guy]

If you are gonna daisy chain a bunch of wires to turn on stuff with the accessory circuit the proper thing to do is use a relay of the acc. circuit from the ignition switch. Use the White/Red wire or or black red wire (depending on what year your car is), using a 30/40A relay connect Pin85 to Ground and wire Pin86 and Pin87 to the Acc wire(white/red or Black red) and use Pin 30 to power all the units reqired, Pin87a is not needed, to make it better use a relay socket( relay harness) to make the connection and and put a 15A fuse on the out put (Pin30) wire just incase if you have a short the factory fuse doesn't blow and that would suck cause the fuses may be common but not ususally available from the local gas station and no music is boring