Honda Civic Electrical, Wiring, and In Car EntertainmentThere's no limit when it comes to in car entertainment for your Honda Civic. It takes experience to make a car for show or even your average car audio enthusiast. Get the information needed to work on your Honda Civic Electrical Wiring and I.C.E.
Welcome to civicforums.com!
Welcome to civicforums.com.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join civicforums.com today!
NOTE: replace all diode "1N4007" with the 6A-1000v
a memeber pointed out that the 1N4007 diode doesnt support enough Amps (only 1amp where as the 6A-1000V supports 6Amps).
this is sorrta like a DIY....but it pertains to the electrical portion...
ok.....this is a diagram/what to do if u want ur lowbeams to say on while ur high beams are on.....
NOTE: stock 01-03 civic's lowbeams will turn off when highbeams are enable....
what u want to do is get a diode that will allow electric flow forward, but not backward....
so......thats why you needa get this diode: POWER SUPPLY DIODE 6A-1000V
so if we want to make sure both of em are on durning highbeam mode, then we gotta use the diode 1N4007.
THEORY:
so the highbeam ground can flow into the lowbeam ground.... (when highbeam is enable)......but the lowbeam ground cannot flow into the highbeam ground....
ACTUALITY:
i frst did the diode like how the previous picture was, but my headlights were not lighting up correctly...when i turned on my lowbeam, my highbeams were also on...but when i fliped on highbeams, only the highbeam stayed on.
so i flipped it around
notice the diode 1N4007 is flipped around....
and then my lights worked properly...i dont undstand the reason...its not suppose to happen like that...but o well...hahah
heres a pix of how it looks
so whats the reason why we do this?
1. if u use stock headlights, you will retail ur lowbeam output when u hit highbeam which means more light will be produced when highs are on.
2. if ur using projector based (like TYC...or those halos projectors n such), you can keep both of em on for more output
3. MY REASON; if u run HIDs in a retrofitted TYC (or simular) u dont wanna be flipping ur hids/ballast on and off...on and off...on and off...when u use ur highbeams.... its bad for ur ballast....
4. to be cool like the 04-05 7thgencivcs
5. to have DRLs (if u can do it, but this gets a lil more advance)
=============================================
heres a pix of tsx retro in a projector based housing:
lowbeam on
lowbeam on while highbeam on
DRL (day time running lights):
i had to intergrade it in my hid wiringharness
-james
To remove this ad, register today for free or log in if already registered!
Last edited by sl33pyriceboi; 03-09-2007 at 10:04 PM.
Sponsored Links
To avoid seeing this ad in our forum please register at CivicForums.com
By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features.
The diode works that way since the current flows from higher potential to low potential.
Both filaments have the positive [high potential] connected. The lights come on when the ground is connected, completing the circuit. When the high beams are on, the high beam's ground is connected. With the diode, the current runs from the positive of the low beam, through the filament, then through the high beam's ground.
Also, the diode is rated for 1 amp, and the low beams are 55w [I think] i=p/v, so 55w/12v=4.5 amps. It might not work well if you have your high beams on for a long period of time as it heats up, but i dunno.
When one writes a DIY that one intends to put on a large forum board, it is advisable for one to use correct grammar, foregoing such terms as "a pix," "sorrta," "u" and "ur," and it is also advisable to have a solid grasp of the acronym "D.I.Y." before posting said article online. Such fallacies severly damage the credibility of the purported author of said work, thus damaging both his reputation and his ego.
Okay I havent been on here in a while but I have to say this is the most retarded post ive ever seen. First of all, there is a reason why you cant have both lo and hi on at the same time. why? because it causes the H4 bulb to BLOW UP. dual filament bulbs were not designed to run both filaments at the same time. second, it is illegal to have more than 4 running lights on at a time. third, if you have an hid retrofit then the entire low beam circuit should have its own harness and will not turn off with the hi beam anyway, making this whole writeup useless. that is, unless youre stupid enough to use the stock wiring to power hid ballasts. Bottom line, forget about doing this everyone. Not only is this illegal, it is also very dangerous and can cause severe electrical problems if done as described here. I have the ability to run both lo and hi at the same time, but i do so only on deserted back roads, and i have both beams on a separate, switched harness.
Okay I havent been on here in a while but I have to say this is the most retarded post ive ever seen. First of all, there is a reason why you cant have both lo and hi on at the same time. why? because it causes the H4 bulb to BLOW UP. dual filament bulbs were not designed to run both filaments at the same time. second, it is illegal to have more than 4 running lights on at a time. third, if you have an hid retrofit then the entire low beam circuit should have its own harness and will not turn off with the hi beam anyway, making this whole writeup useless. that is, unless youre stupid enough to use the stock wiring to power hid ballasts. Bottom line, forget about doing this everyone. Not only is this illegal, it is also very dangerous and can cause severe electrical problems if done as described here. I have the ability to run both lo and hi at the same time, but i do so only on deserted back roads, and i have both beams on a separate, switched harness.
I have these cheap TYC kind of projectors from ebay, the bulbs are separate. Is there any other reason not to do it. (Already took into consideration the 4 running lights part)
yea, the load on the electrical system that was only designed to "barely" run 55wx2 for the main beams. why do you think fog lights come with a completely new harness from honda? the factory wires werent made to support it. maybe for short periods you could do it, but thats still alot of power. on other cars that have the ability to run both lo and hi in separate housings actually have thicker wires to begin with, or they use two harnesses. the new 8thgen civic for example. but if you really need to drive with the hi beams on in the country backroads or something it would be better to get a new harness and run them separate. you can still wire the harness trigger to the hi beam so your factory switch would work, but then you have to get around the low beams turning off. so youll have to rewire the stock stuff too.
ok question on my h1's the running lights stay on with my low beam is there a way to make go off where my low beams are on i personally think it looks better
do you have tyc? well it doesnt matter, if you dont want running light part, just cut that power wire. dual filament bulbs have 3 wires, for the civic the red is parking light, green is signal, and black is ground. if you cut the red wire, the dim parking filament will not come on. but you will still have the bright filaments when you use the signal. but then you wont have any parking lights. or you could get creative and put a switch on the park wire to turn it on later if you want.