[04civic07]

UPGRADE! to the DC2R.... bigger rotors... better cooling, better cooling.... lasting longer!, but yeah 40k is about right to change.

[LT2004ever]

Originally Posted by robbclark1

Cheap rotors from pepboys/autozone/etc - $30
Axxis ultimates - $60

Total = $90

these would be a way better purchase than the brembo blanks and hawk pads?

[ryox82]

Im guessing if it was a daily driver, I got mine from auto zone, 40ish for both....and that was the expensive set. Then again I dont race in any way, just wanted a standard replacement. Also im rockin the steelies with the oem cover :-P Doesnt have to look "clean"

[DaMadScientist]

you might also check that if the lugnuts are two tight, or were not tightened in criss-cross order they could of warped your rotors as well

[mugenman]

if your strapped for cash just get some duralast golds from autozone but if cash isnt an issue id go with the same set up you had.

[rice4lyfe]

how do you tighten your rotors? To get miniman warpage on rotors, always tighten with a criss-cross patter USING A TORQUE WRENCH

[WgnrNick]

From the way you make your driving sound, 40k is actually pretty good. Try down shifting some more and you should get a longer life out of them.




Wagner

[babzog]

Originally Posted by WgnrNick

From the way you make your driving sound, 40k is actually pretty good. Try down shifting some more and you should get a longer life out of them.

Clutch job: around $800 and a day or two in the shop.
Brake job (all wheels): around $260 and an evening / afternoon of my time.

For the money, I rarely, if ever, downshift. I let my brakes do the slowing.

[tuningmycivic]

or you could just get off the gas sooner...and brake gradually instead of stoplight-dragging from corner to corner. i just passed 80k on my car with 60 of them on my Hawk HP pads and powerslot rotors. I'd guess I still have another 20k or so in them driving normally. and no signs of warping.

[babzog]

^^^ That works too!

[manahoonie]

or we can see the dates between posts...

last post before this was brought back yesterday: 12 19 2007

[babzog]

Originally Posted by manahoonie

or we can see the dates between posts...

last post before this was brought back yesterday: 12 19 2007

Yeah... I was replying to a post that came up in a search and never thought to check the date. What can I say.

[DarkFlame]

I've got 98k original miles on my '98 LX. I've had the brake rotors resurfaced twice and replaced once (warping all 3 times). They did it under warrantee because I've never had a vehicle have this kind of trouble with the brakes. Tires have only been changed professionally, so if they overtightened them, they screwed it up, not me. Admittedly, I'm not easy on the brakes, but I felt that was ridiculous. Since I started riding the motorcycle, I've only put about 4k miles each year on the Civic (& wife drives Grand Caravan). So, it's not getting nearly the wear & tear that it got the first 6 years we owned the car.

I'm looking to replace the rotors with something a LOT more heavy-duty than the flimsy stockers. I want to keep the car another 10 years & do some other upgrades to it, also. And, I'm "not bad" with a wrench - I've rebuilt 4 engines, done numerous brake jobs, installed dual carbs on a VW & kept them synced, etc. So, replacing brake pads, rotors, & cylinders is about an afternoon's work for me.

Brands & models will be most appreciated on the following:

• What are the best & most heavy duty rotors available?
• Do I need to replace the stock cylinders or will they work with the OEMs?
• What are comparably heavy duty pads?

This will be my first mod on the car, and the first work I've done on it myself (other than an occasional oil change, but most of those have been done professionally). But, I've owned 9 other cars/trucks & did all the work on most of them, not to mention that I'm on my 3rd motorcycle & have done extensive work on this one. So, I'm not afraid of a tool nor getting dirty.

I appreciate the assistance,
David
"I've got a torque wrench & I'm not afraid to use it!"