Honda Civic Forced InductionHonda Civic Forced Induction - When you've done all you can to your Honda Civic Cold Air Intake and upgraded exhaust, it's time to step up to Honda Civic turbochargers and Honda Civic superchargers.
Welcome to civicforums.com!
Welcome to civicforums.com.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join civicforums.com today!
damn kyle, i didn't think you'd been gone that long already....hurry up yo!!
we need to get Jay in on this too Clint...
lol, it sure as hell feels like it to me. 15 month tours suck. ill be back shortly. we are under our 150 days mark, and as im sure you know,units start packing and sending stuff back at 120 days out.
To remove this ad, register today for free or log in if already registered!
Sponsored Links
To avoid seeing this ad in our forum please register at CivicForums.com
By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features.
as far as the v band gt30 turbo speedfoos, you got to be more specific for me. the atpturbo.com site hast like 12 different kinds for different applications. just let me know which one i need to get. thanks again
Last edited by affixrider; 08-28-2008 at 12:37 AM.
Reason: corrected info
as for things you need to hit 450 you are definitely going to need switch to walbor fuel system (restrictive around 260-280 i think), a crower cam(stock cam gets restrictive around 320) (I advise stage 3 i think it's the nicest), an el mani, and 3 inch exhaust (you might have to say goodbye to your A/C). those are the things that you are going to need to change otherwise you will hit a wall.
I would also advise that you V-band everything that you can it makes life so much easier .
Also there is no reason to sleeve a d17 you can put 32lbs of boost through it and it doesn't effect it but since you already have a sleeved motor I would highly recommend that you over-bore it you can only go so much over-bore with stock sleeves before they become too thin, but with sleeves you can usually bore it out a little more. I believe you can bore out a set of sleeves to .080 over-bore which is huge. you would have to get wiseco to make you a set of pistons to fit it but I think they only charge like an extra $200 over the regular piston price to make you a set but thats not bad. Your displacement would be huge! there's no replacement for displacement!lol
as for things you need to hit 450 you are definitely going to need switch to walbor fuel system (restrictive around 260-280 i think), a crower cam(stock cam gets restrictive around 320) (I advise stage 3 i think it's the nicest), an el mani, and 3 inch exhaust (you might have to say goodbye to your A/C). those are the things that you are going to need to change otherwise you will hit a wall.
I would also advise that you V-band everything that you can it makes life so much easier .
Also there is no reason to sleeve a d17 you can put 32lbs of boost through it and it doesn't effect it but since you already have a sleeved motor I would highly recommend that you over-bore it you can only go so much over-bore with stock sleeves before they become too thin, but with sleeves you can usually bore it out a little more. I believe you can bore out a set of sleeves to .080 over-bore which is huge. you would have to get wiseco to make you a set of pistons to fit it but I think they only charge like an extra $200 over the regular piston price to make you a set but thats not bad. Your displacement would be huge! there's no replacement for displacement!lol
thanks for the information, ill keep that in mind when ordering the pistons.
honestly ??? a d17 crank and sleeves are good for 32 lbs of boost daily driver abused??u don't think its jus kinda something u don't have control over when pushing 450 whp ?? there are a bunch of guys ive heard of who blew fully built motors b/c of the crack with a d16 at 400-420
honestly ??? a d17 crank and sleeves are good for 32 lbs of boost daily driver abused??u don't think its jus kinda something u don't have control over when pushing 450 whp ?? there are a bunch of guys ive heard of who blew fully built motors b/c of the crack with a d16 at 400-420
First off your not going to break the crank in a honda.
I have seen everything go on hondas from cam shafts snapping in two, to rods and piston shooting out the side of the block the crank won't go it's the strongest thing honda has ever made. In most engine you have to worry about the crank flexing and breaking but since the honda engines are so short the block actually flexes around the crank so the block will always go before the crank does thats why the dart blocks have extra ribbing and support along the side to keep the block from flexing so much. The stock honda crank can handle well over 800hp it should be good to over 1000 and I would bet that it could handle over 1200hp. the girdle, the block, and the crower rods will all go before the crank does.
now as for the sleeves I watched andys gauge go up to 32 lbs of boost and a week later I pulled the head on his car sleeves were perfect head gasket was perfect. **It all comes down to the tune** with that much power you are shoving tons of gas and air into the combustion chamber and if it is tuned right the mixture burns nice and smoothly and the pressure stay very stable and not to high and you will have lots of power.
But If it is not tuned right and you detonate with all of that oxygen and fuel you can at times generate more pressure than a stick of dynamite depending on how much power you are already putting down and the way the engine is built.
mind you, you are also talking about d-16's which have a distributor on them, which means it is a lot harder to tune your ignition timing and you will never be able to get it as nice as a car that has a distributor-less system unless of course you get that really cool k-1 cam/crank trigger (i think thats what it's called) that one of Andy's friends out in Colorado created a couple years back.
If you detonate hard enough or long enough your going to break the motor sleeves or no sleeves so as long as you have a good tune your fine.
Now if he wants to run over 30lbs everyday all the time thats fine as long as he can get his hands on something like c-16 (which if you run it long enough the lead in it will kill your o2 sensors) 93 octane is good for probably around 400-420hp depending on the turbo and the tune. But honestly there is no need for that much power unless your running the 1/4 once you get over 350-375 the car becomes a handful even with an LSD theres just too much torque steer.
Oh on a side note to affixrider I highly recomend if you go for that much power, pull the power steering off the car if you haven't already. The car will be too squirrelly to handle when the boost comes on.
Paul, I'm pretty sure we're going to run a Walbro with return line on this setup, I listed that out on the previous page. I know Andy swears by not running power steering, but I hated my car w/o power steering. It was a real bitch to handle boosting around curves. We'll test the car with and without.
Kyle, in regards to the turbo, here's what you want:
- .63 A/R
- T3 Turbine Inlet Flange, 4-bolt GT 3.0" discharge External Wastegate Only (The first one on the housings)
- Scroll down and click the V-band GT Option
- 3.0" Compressor Inlet
That should do it for the turbo. This will be the same one I'm running, aside from the v-band exhaust housing. Spool starts at 3100 RPMS, and I'm at full boost (9.5psi right now) at 3900 RPMs according to yesterdays datalogs.
With that V-band housing we'll easily be able to keep the AC.
Go to siliconeintakes.com and get the t-bolt clamps if you don't have them already and get two sets of 3" v-band weld-on clamp rings and two clamps to make your downpipe. It's up to you if you want to get stainless or mild steel, I can weld either, we just have to match the steel type when you get the tubing for the downpipe.
Head over to here to Mandrel Bending Solutions on Ebay and pick up two pieces of 180° 3" u-bends (again stainless or mild, your choice) to make your downpipe, and also pick up two oxygen sensor bungs (in the Hardware category) to make the DP.
Get some 1.75" mandrel bent tubing from Summit Racing to make your dumptube as well. Up to you whether we leave it open or plumb it in to the exhaust.
Not to be a dick, but I'm going to be doing a lot of work on this setup, so I'm going to have to charge you something - whether that's cash or parts I need is up to you. Think up something fair and PM me. Most folks know I'm not out to make money doing something I enjoy, but the fab time alone on the DP and all that is quite a bit of time.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
Paul, I'm pretty sure we're going to run a Walbro with return line on this setup, I listed that out on the previous page. I know Andy swears by not running power steering, but I hated my car w/o power steering. It was a real bitch to handle boosting around curves. We'll test the car with and without.
Kyle, in regards to the turbo, here's what you want:
- .63 A/R
- T3 Turbine Inlet Flange, 4-bolt GT 3.0" discharge External Wastegate Only (The first one on the housings)
- Scroll down and click the V-band GT Option
- 3.0" Compressor Inlet
That should do it for the turbo. This will be the same one I'm running, aside from the v-band exhaust housing. Spool starts at 3100 RPMS, and I'm at full boost (9.5psi right now) at 3900 RPMs according to yesterdays datalogs.
With that V-band housing we'll easily be able to keep the AC.
Go to siliconeintakes.com and get the t-bolt clamps if you don't have them already and get two sets of 3" v-band weld-on clamp rings and two clamps to make your downpipe. It's up to you if you want to get stainless or mild steel, I can weld either, we just have to match the steel type when you get the tubing for the downpipe.
Head over to here to Mandrel Bending Solutions on Ebay and pick up two pieces of 180° 3" u-bends (again stainless or mild, your choice) to make your downpipe, and also pick up two oxygen sensor bungs (in the Hardware category) to make the DP.
Get some 1.75" mandrel bent tubing from Summit Racing to make your dumptube as well. Up to you whether we leave it open or plumb it in to the exhaust.
Not to be a dick, but I'm going to be doing a lot of work on this setup, so I'm going to have to charge you something - whether that's cash or parts I need is up to you. Think up something fair and PM me. Most folks know I'm not out to make money doing something I enjoy, but the fab time alone on the DP and all that is quite a bit of time.
okay the turbo/turbine itself has been bought. thanks for the link. that made it alot easier for me. and yes well will come up with something as far as payment. lol, thats not a problem man. i was just going to wait till i got to meet you in person to discuss it. just let me know what you think is fair. when we finally get to put this whole project, well both be working our asses of to get this thing going. oh and i forgot to ask man. whats your real name? thanks
That's cool Kyle,m you've got PM back. As far as the IC piping goes, that will depend on your FMIC and intake choice. We can either buy a prefab kit or just get the individual bends and fab it up custom. Up to you and your pocket book really.
Oh. Think about how you want to the oil setup. You can either run a sandwich adapter on the filter, oil filter relocation kit with a cooler, or a sandwich adapter to a cooler leaving the oil filter in the stock location. Up to you. I think an oil cooler would be a good idea given the numbers you want to hit.
Also think about a catchcan setup. Standard (PCV and VC hoses just run to a vented catchcan) or a positive vacuum evac setup. First one is easy, second gets a little more complicated, but not by much. I run the second one on mine.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
Shit man, I'd have recommended the 4" compressor inlet with anti-surge on it. I'd call atp real quick like and see if they can adjust your order. The more air the compressor can suck in, the more power it'll make. Trust me, you're going to need that 4" inlet in the top end and you don't want to snap that brand new turbo's shaft, so I say get the surge machining option....
I don't know if that turbo is going to break 450 in the top end. I'd have suggested the 3076 over the 3071, but time will tell....
Intercooler, PWR is the shit. You can get a very efficient vertical flow with endtanks on top and bottom and inlet/outlet same side that will support way more than you will be putting out. Call them and tell them what you need.
Oil cooler, get one. Earl's makes the sandwich adapter plate for feeding and returning to the cooler. And it has a built in t-stat. Very nice piece. I'd also recommend an earl's cooler.
