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The Y8 mani is not a direct bolt-on. You have to do some work to get it to fit properly. A lot of work.
There are no problems with a GT30 turbo as long as you make the downpipe correctly. It will be both AC and PS compliant. GT28 is too small for your goals.
Crower cams are not rough on idle if you're running a standalone.
You're stationed at Bragg, right? When you get back from the sandbox and get all you're stuff, I'll help you with the install. I'm PCSing there next month.
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__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
The Y8 mani is not a direct bolt-on. You have to do some work to get it to fit properly. A lot of work.
There are no problems with a GT30 turbo as long as you make the downpipe correctly. It will be both AC and PS compliant. GT28 is too small for your goals.
Crower cams are not rough on idle if you're running a standalone.
You're stationed at Bragg, right? When you get back from the sandbox and get all you're stuff, I'll help you with the install. I'm PCSing there next month.
HEY MAN YEAH THAT SOUNDS GREAT. I COULD USE ALL THE HELP I CAN GET. FAIR WARNING THOUGH, THE ENGINE IS COMPLETLY TAKEN APART RIGHT NOW, SO WE GOT TO START FROM THE GROUND UP. AND ILL ONLY BE BACK AT BRAGG FOR ABOUT 3-5 MONTHS BEFORE MY UNIT HEADS ON TO WASHINGTON. SO IF YOUR CERTAIN THAT WE CAN GET IT DONE WITH YOU THERE, TUNING AND ALL, THEN ID BE MORE THEN HAPPY TO HAVE YOUR HELP. I WAS JUST GOING TO WAIT TILL WASHINGTON, BUT THERE I WOULD HAVE NO HELP. AND THANKS FOR CLEARING UP ALL THE OTHER ADVICEAS FAR AS THE INTAKE, AND IDLE ISSUES.
HEY MAN YEAH THAT SOUNDS GREAT. I COULD USE ALL THE HELP I CAN GET. FAIR WARNING THOUGH, THE ENGINE IS COMPLETLY TAKEN APART RIGHT NOW, SO WE GOT TO START FROM THE GROUND UP. AND ILL ONLY BE BACK AT BRAGG FOR ABOUT 3-5 MONTHS BEFORE MY UNIT HEADS ON TO WASHINGTON. SO IF YOUR CERTAIN THAT WE CAN GET IT DONE WITH YOU THERE, TUNING AND ALL, THEN ID BE MORE THEN HAPPY TO HAVE YOUR HELP. I WAS JUST GOING TO WAIT TILL WASHINGTON, BUT THERE I WOULD HAVE NO HELP. AND THANKS FOR CLEARING UP ALL THE OTHER ADVICEAS FAR AS THE INTAKE, AND IDLE ISSUES.
Foos has had his engine apart more times than real race car . He could probably assemble your engine with his eyes closed. All he needs is some pizza and beer.
Are you being station in Washington State or Washington DC?
__________________ Life isnt a test drive, gotta live a little. (02fpcivic)
thanks for the rep, im happy i helped .. The y8 is an ok mod in difficulty, its not perfect bolt on but u can make it work. my shop said 6/10 difficulty so its not that bad, and performance wise compared to the d17 he rated it 8.5/10 .. its solid metal that can handle 400whp + it looks better, more vacuum ports, and FREAKING CHEAP
1. What's your real name?
2. As long as we have all the parts (bearings, gaskets, etc...) we can have your motor together and installed in less than a day.
Do me a favor. Post up a list of everything you have in your possession right now for this build, and don't use ALL CAPS. Post specs of the engine (bore size, etc..) so we know what size pistons you will need.
Do you know the crank and block codes from your motor to get the proper sized bearings?
We don't have to run a $10K build to reach your power goals, but it still won't be cheap. I know a good tuner to take it to as well - Blueridge Motorsports, they're not too far from Bragg.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
1. What's your real name?
2. As long as we have all the parts (bearings, gaskets, etc...) we can have your motor together and installed in less than a day.
Do me a favor. Post up a list of everything you have in your possession right now for this build, and don't use ALL CAPS. Post specs of the engine (bore size, etc..) so we know what size pistons you will need.
Do you know the crank and block codes from your motor to get the proper sized bearings?
We don't have to run a $10K build to reach your power goals, but it still won't be cheap. I know a good tuner to take it to as well - Blueridge Motorsports, they're not too far from Bragg.
sorry about the all caps deal. i had been checking this site out all day during work. and at work thats how we enter all the info, so i always forget to take it off. my real name is kyle. and yes i have the entire motor. but i am buying all new gaskets and seals. and im sure its not going to run 10k for my build. i was est about 5 or 6. no im not sure what the crank code is. i just now the block is an A2 from an ex model. and as for the bore size, ill look it up. the block right now is at a shop. they are holding onto the block till right before i get back. i also have an extra A2 block. i heard that you dont have to have sleeves in the block so if we dont need it i know someone who is wanting to buy it and well work with the stock block if thats easier for you. just let me know what size pistons, type, and rod size and ill order them. and ill call the shop tomm and find out the specs if you want to work with that. and its good to hear you know alot about engines as well. ive taken mine apart as well as others plenty of times. so we shouldnt have to much trouble with the instalation. as far as parts that i need go. well its pretty much everything. all i have is the motor taken apart, and the 8.5lb flywheel. so as i start buying parts ill make a list for you. thanks again
oh and as for the other person who ask about washington. its washington state.
Last edited by affixrider; 08-27-2008 at 02:29 PM.
Reason: added more info
The piston size will depend on the bores in the block, and you're right, you don't need sleeves. Get a hold of the machine shop and ask them what size the bores are now that they honed them. If they are still stock 75mm, then you will just need to get 75mm Wisecos with the same size rings.
You will need to buy all new gaskets, seals, and bearings. It's only $150 for the gaskets and you shouldn't skimp on this unless you already have them. Since the shop already has the block, get the crank and block codes from them and we can get the right set of main bearings from Honda. Your rod bearings will depend on the numbers on the rods once you order them. You can either spend $700 on Crowers or $450 (ish) on the K1s that Dezod carries now, either one will be fine.
So from what I understand you need the following:
- cam, springs, and retainers
- headwork (optional with the cam)
- what turbo mani do you have and are you going to keep it?
- what BOV and WG are you running, keeping them?
- new clutch, FW should be fine
- What tranny work are you having done?
- new injectors
- return fuel conversion (pump, FPR, lines, fittings, rail)
- koyo rad and slim fans
- new turbo and DP
Depending on when you re-deploy to the states, my stuff should be there and I'll have my welder to do the downpipe and whatnot. If you're going to buy a new turbo, get one with a V-band exhaust housing, it's well worth it and makes running a 3" DP and keeping the AC a lot easier. I'll keep on this thread as we go back and forth.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
The piston size will depend on the bores in the block, and you're right, you don't need sleeves. Get a hold of the machine shop and ask them what size the bores are now that they honed them. If they are still stock 75mm, then you will just need to get 75mm Wisecos with the same size rings.
You will need to buy all new gaskets, seals, and bearings. It's only $150 for the gaskets and you shouldn't skimp on this unless you already have them. Since the shop already has the block, get the crank and block codes from them and we can get the right set of main bearings from Honda. Your rod bearings will depend on the numbers on the rods once you order them. You can either spend $700 on Crowers or $450 (ish) on the K1s that Dezod carries now, either one will be fine.
So from what I understand you need the following:
- cam, springs, and retainers
- headwork (optional with the cam)
- what turbo mani do you have and are you going to keep it?
- what BOV and WG are you running, keeping them?
- new clutch, FW should be fine
- What tranny work are you having done?
- new injectors
- return fuel conversion (pump, FPR, lines, fittings, rail)
- koyo rad and slim fans
- new turbo and DP
Depending on when you re-deploy to the states, my stuff should be there and I'll have my welder to do the downpipe and whatnot. If you're going to buy a new turbo, get one with a V-band exhaust housing, it's well worth it and makes running a 3" DP and keeping the AC a lot easier. I'll keep on this thread as we go back and forth.
yes everything you said is correct as on parts needed. and i will call them tomm. im pretty sure they are still 75mm. and i would like to just order them to be on the safe side since i still have an extra block i can use it with. and as for the bov and wg. i plan on getting new ones. the ones i got know are pretty much useless. and as far as the ransmission goes, i still need to order a new clutch and puck disc. will the 8.5lb flywheel be okay or do i need to get a diferent type? and im trying to find me a new turbo manifold right now. the one i have on my car now is supermexs old log manifold, and its been through hell and back. thanks again for all the quick replies.
OK, here's what I would get if you want the full Monty:
From dezod:
- Dezod EL race mani - $925
- 75mm Wisecos $499
- K1 con rods - $421
- Walbro pump - $92
from atpturbo.com
- Garrett GT3071 .63 A/R with V-band discharge - $1445
- Tial 44mm WG - $375
- GT Turbo install kit - $70
From jeffevanstuning.com
- k-pro with boost solenoid and 4-BAR MAP sensor - $1300 - we'll talk to Andy about this
From Summit
- D16Z6 ARP Head studs - $95
- Aeromotive FPR - $120(ish)
- misc fittings and line -$150 (ish)
- compatible ECU - $250-?? You will have to source this. Check hondata.com for which ones will work.
- pick whatever BOV you want from where ever you want to buy it.
from fast-turbo.com
- Oil feed and return kit for a Aluminum pan and GT turbo - $120
Dunno about your FMIC, charge pipes and all that.
Check my tips and tricks thread in my sig for more details, I can't remember everything off the top of my head right now.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
OK, here's what I would get if you want the full Monty:
From dezod:
- Dezod EL race mani - $925
- 75mm Wisecos $499
- K1 con rods - $421
- Walbro pump - $92
from atpturbo.com
- Garrett GT3071 .63 A/R with V-band discharge - $1445
- Tial 44mm WG - $375
- GT Turbo install kit - $70
From jeffevanstuning.com
- k-pro with boost solenoid and 4-BAR MAP sensor - $1300 - we'll talk to Andy about this
From Summit
- D16Z6 ARP Head studs - $95
- Aeromotive FPR - $120(ish)
- misc fittings and line -$150 (ish)
- compatible ECU - $250-?? You will have to source this. Check hondata.com for which ones will work.
- pick whatever BOV you want from where ever you want to buy it.
from fast-turbo.com
- Oil feed and return kit for a Aluminum pan and GT turbo - $120
Dunno about your FMIC, charge pipes and all that.
Check my tips and tricks thread in my sig for more details, I can't remember everything off the top of my head right now.
speedfoos man i cant thank you enough. you got me the info a hell of alot quicker then what i thought. its kool that youll also be able to help me get this project together.
well if anything else comes up to mind then just add it. ill start looking everything up first thing tomm and ill let you know everything i order asap. well, its midnight here in iraq and i got to get up at 0500 tomm for a mission . ill check this again tomm afternoon. thanks again for all the info
u hav to get a new manifold if ur going gt30 sell ur setup as one, and replace it with the gt30 and tubular manifold
yep thats my plan. its kinda kool that ill be building a entire new engine turbo setup while im still driving my 192hp t3 turbo setup,lol. cant wait to get this project going.
yep thats my plan. its kinda kool that ill be building a entire new engine turbo setup while im still driving my 192hp t3 turbo setup,lol. cant wait to get this project going.
. He could probably assemble your engine with his eyes closed. All he needs is some pizza and beer. 
and at work thats how we enter all the info, so i always forget to take it off. my real name is kyle. and yes i have the entire motor. but i am buying all new gaskets and seals. and im sure its not going to run 10k for my build. i was est about 5 or 6. no im not sure what the crank code is. i just now the block is an A2 from an ex model. and as for the bore size, ill look it up. the block right now is at a shop. they are holding onto the block till right before i get back. i also have an extra A2 block. i heard that you dont have to have sleeves in the block so if we dont need it i know someone who is wanting to buy it and well work with the stock block if thats easier for you. just let me know what size pistons, type, and rod size and ill order them. and ill call the shop tomm and find out the specs if you want to work with that. and its good to hear you know alot about engines as well. ive taken mine apart as well as others plenty of times. so we shouldnt have to much trouble with the instalation. as far as parts that i need go. well its pretty much everything. all i have is the motor taken apart, and the 8.5lb flywheel. so as i start buying parts ill make a list for you. thanks again
. ill check this again tomm afternoon. thanks again for all the info 
