Honda Civic Forced InductionHonda Civic Forced Induction - When you've done all you can to your Honda Civic Cold Air Intake and upgraded exhaust, it's time to step up to Honda Civic turbochargers and Honda Civic superchargers.
Welcome to civicforums.com!
Welcome to civicforums.com.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join civicforums.com today!
The Gear:
2003 Honda Civic D17a2
OEM Radiator
t3/t4 Turbo
Wastegate vented to atmosphere but the dumptube is only 12" long
SNEM 12" slimline pull fans (supposedly around 2000CFM each)
The issue:
The car operates fine when moving, but when sitting for over 10 minutes in the sun it will overheat. Sitting in the shade at idle it will stay around 212-216 (CEL comes on at 220). On the freeway (even today which was hot) the car runs at about 197. If the car sits in the sun it starts creeping up after awhile and once heatsoak sets it, it's all over. The fans are set to come on at 185 through kpro, it has a new HG, ARP Headstuds, etc. Coolant mix should be 50/50ish. Anytime the AC is on, the fans are on as well.
My tuner recommended flipping the fan blades to see if it would help, which I haven't done yet. The coolant system has no bubbles. The I/C takes up a LOT of room so I'm sure air has to work to make it back there. The dumptube doesn't make it out under the car yet (just haven't had it welded yet) but I'm not sure how much comes out of it at idle anyway. The lower radiator hose also touches the I/C piping coming out of the snail (nowhere else to route it). It's getting hotter out and I need to fix this.
Thoughts?
To remove this ad, register today for free or log in if already registered!
__________________
Sponsored Links
To avoid seeing this ad in our forum please register at CivicForums.com
By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features.
Are you positive that the fan is coming on? I've experienced a similar problem. I'm sure I'll be dealing with the same issue before long once it gets really hot.
It seems that since I've installed the slim fans, it's caused issue for me more than anything. It hasn't been hot enough to be a consistant issue for me, but when the heat moves in permanently, I'll be able to diagnose and troubleshoot a little better. If it is a problem, I'm thinking I will upgrade the fan to a higher cfm flowing fan for better cooling control. I'll keep you posted, man.
This has started since the turbo right? And your turbo is not water-cooled, correct? FWIW, I never run a 50/50 mix, always right around 60/40 - 65/35 with a bottle of Water Wetter or Purple Lightning. My idle temps won't go over 194 - without fans on, but then again I'm running a Koyo allie radiator. Pressure test the radiator cap?
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
hey when it over heats .. does the needle on the speedometer cluster move up at all? or u can only tell with the digital coolent temp gauge ... cuz id on't have one and readin this makes me a lil worried considerring its getting hot
Here's the deal with that....
Up until I installed slim line fans, I had zero issues. It's these slim fans, I'd bet on it. They don't efficiently cool the radiator core. So there are a few things I would do, personally.
A) Install a more efficient radiator (koyo)
B) Install a more efficient fan
C) Being as I don't have ac, wire the ac fan into the radiator fan
I'm not a fan of colder thermostats, fan switches, etc. Here's why:
You want your ECT's to always be in the 180-210 degree range because that is not only when you have optimal lubrication, etc, but also, outside of that range, you see a fuel trim difference being introduced, which fucks your entire tune. If you see 194 at idle, what are you seeing on the highway when you're getting sufficient air cooling the radiator core? I'd bet you're in the 160-170 range, easy. Not optimal for your fuel trim....
This has started since the turbo right? And your turbo is not water-cooled, correct? FWIW, I never run a 50/50 mix, always right around 60/40 - 65/35 with a bottle of Water Wetter or Purple Lightning. My idle temps won't go over 194 - without fans on, but then again I'm running a Koyo allie radiator. Pressure test the radiator cap?
Correct and correct. Mine will idle in the shade over 200. Kpro forces my fans on at 185 but clearly it isn't helping. I'm about to look for a new radiator, fans, and wrap more exhaust stuff.
Quote:
Originally Posted by emjay
hey when it over heats .. does the needle on the speedometer cluster move up at all? or u can only tell with the digital coolent temp gauge ... cuz id on't have one and readin this makes me a lil worried considerring its getting hot
Kpro has my CEL set to come on at 220
Quote:
Originally Posted by andyman97
Here's the deal with that....
Up until I installed slim line fans, I had zero issues. It's these slim fans, I'd bet on it. They don't efficiently cool the radiator core. So there are a few things I would do, personally.
A) Install a more efficient radiator (koyo)
B) Install a more efficient fan
C) Being as I don't have ac, wire the ac fan into the radiator fan
I'm not a fan of colder thermostats, fan switches, etc. Here's why:
You want your ECT's to always be in the 180-210 degree range because that is not only when you have optimal lubrication, etc, but also, outside of that range, you see a fuel trim difference being introduced, which fucks your entire tune. If you see 194 at idle, what are you seeing on the highway when you're getting sufficient air cooling the radiator core? I'd bet you're in the 160-170 range, easy. Not optimal for your fuel trim....
I agree. On the freeway (with 91 degree Arizona weather) I'm seein a 113 degree IAT and a 195 degree ECT. My car only overheats when it's not moving. It HAS to be the fans and a new radiator will certainly help.
Quote:
Originally Posted by speedfoos
Highway temps are at about 197 Andy. Keep in mind, I was checking my temps over the winter and won't have an accurate summer reading until I get back.
Summer is just starting here. I need to fix this before 120 degree days occur
It's not the headgasket f00. It has new headstuds.
Just bought a new radiator cap and themrostat from honda. Swung by Home Depot and picked up piping to get that dump tube under the car. Picking up a koyo radiator in an hour. Picking up 2500CFM Flexilite fans after than.
My goal is to have this shit over with by tonight.
I pushed coolant the same way....headgasket blew on all 4 cylinders....I never had overheating issues. I just got mine back together w/ studs & new gasket so I guess we'll see. SOHC & coolant push....seems like a never ending battle around here.
__________________ Its one thing to know your car is slow. Its another to take it to a track, and get it in writing, in front of 200 people, that your car is REALLY slow - Ashole (Gotta agree 17.2)
193WHP & 166 ft lbs @ 9 psi (GReddy Emanaged Beotch)
Dezod V3 kit w/ Tial Blow off Valve & Wastegate
Hondata Managed & SRT4 Injectors (waiting to dyno still...)
75mm Throttle Body
Dezod 2.5" Back to 3" Vibrant w/ Resonator
(GReddy Emanaged Beotch)
