Honda Civic Forced InductionHonda Civic Forced Induction - When you've done all you can to your Honda Civic Cold Air Intake and upgraded exhaust, it's time to step up to Honda Civic turbochargers and Honda Civic superchargers.
Welcome to civicforums.com!
Welcome to civicforums.com.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join civicforums.com today!
Damn nice fans........you say it does ok at highway but not at idle.....so first guess would be flow problems...ie fans.....but the coolant push part makes me worry for you. I am so sick of coolant push. Good luck
To remove this ad, register today for free or log in if already registered!
__________________ Its one thing to know your car is slow. Its another to take it to a track, and get it in writing, in front of 200 people, that your car is REALLY slow - Ashole (Gotta agree 17.2)
193WHP & 166 ft lbs @ 9 psi (GReddy Emanaged Beotch)
Dezod V3 kit w/ Tial Blow off Valve & Wastegate
Hondata Managed & SRT4 Injectors (waiting to dyno still...)
75mm Throttle Body
Dezod 2.5" Back to 3" Vibrant w/ Resonator
Sponsored Links
To avoid seeing this ad in our forum please register at CivicForums.com
By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features.
I think the coolant push only occured when the car was overheating. That OR it could have been a bad radiator cap. I just replaced the cap too and the car hasn't overheated since. Give it a few days and I'll look that the overflow tank. It wasn't overflowing, just adding to the tank.
Ya....I guess all ya can do is drive it and see.....mine would do the same. Push coolant into the overflow like every car does...it just wouldn't suck it back up
__________________ Its one thing to know your car is slow. Its another to take it to a track, and get it in writing, in front of 200 people, that your car is REALLY slow - Ashole (Gotta agree 17.2)
193WHP & 166 ft lbs @ 9 psi (GReddy Emanaged Beotch)
Dezod V3 kit w/ Tial Blow off Valve & Wastegate
Hondata Managed & SRT4 Injectors (waiting to dyno still...)
75mm Throttle Body
Dezod 2.5" Back to 3" Vibrant w/ Resonator
That's some pretty impressive vacuum to be able to suck it back up considering the bottom of the tank has some shitty little clamp and the tanks lid is a piece of platic anyway. Forget sucking it back in, I just don't want it pushing it out. lol
Well I filled it today after it overheated with the new fans, drained the overflow and got all airbubbles out. Hours later, overflow is full again. Gotta be that headgasket. Plus the car seemed to spool about 500 rpms later after the last hg change. I think it was never fixed in the first place...
I'll do a pressure test, then a leakdown to see if I should do valves as well before I take it on. Could even be a clogged radiator but my bet is on that head
Get the head and block checked out to make sure they're straight. That's why I went through three of those fuckers. Whole shebang is coming out in two weeks and is being carted off to the machine shop to make sure it's in spec.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
What are you torquing the head studs to? My overheating problem isn't even really "overheating" but the kpro triggers the CEL at a certain temp just to warn me, the needle doesn't even move, really. As soon as I start driving again, and getting air moving across the radiator, CEL turns off immediately. I need to wire both fans in...
Your coolant will also start to change color (more yellowy) from the contantimants leaking into it from the combustion chamber. Also you may see little flecks of the gasket coating in your coolant. Really easy to see in the neck of the silver Koyo.
__________________
Quote:
Originally Posted by LogicWavelength
This thread (T.E.A.R.S.) was inspired by speedfoos. We all know about his very public and very obscene battle against his car's engine.
There's a good chance that I'm not going to answer your PM.
I don't think it's the head man, I think it's lack of torque on the headstuds/improper torque sequence/or tuning related. Quit being lazy and do shit yourself so it's done right... As for the tuning, find a better shop.
I plan on doing it myself. The new head wasn't because I think this one is defective. It's because a getting the head milled and a valve job would cost me around $200 for everything AND it would mean the head was off the car for a few days. I can order a new head with everything done to it for not much more and then sell the head on my car. It's more of a convenience issue than anything.
I need my car and can't have it down for days at a time.
Your coolant will also start to change color (more yellowy) from the contantimants leaking into it from the combustion chamber. Also you may see little flecks of the gasket coating in your coolant. Really easy to see in the neck of the silver Koyo.
Hey fella's I am having the same problem. I took it to the mechanic. He has a little devise that tests your coolant to see if you are getting any exhaust gases in your system. No exhaust gases which means good head gasket. Its air bubbles. Mine got them twice. What happens is the mechanic will put a funnel with radiator cap on it, fill it with water and let your car idle. The air bubble go through the system and wholla. Now why I have gotten the air bubble stwice, I dont know. By the way I am running similar slim fans.
Just need to road tune my AEM FIC if anyone knows how.