Who wants a JDMFabtech Intake Mani? Steve and I do! - Serious Interest Only

[exturbo6]

yeah im working on getting the first. deposit to get this rolling...jan 15 should be a good date...ill keep ya post clint...cant wait to get this sexy piece. only thing ill be taking extra is the fuel rail he makes.

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[Buds302]

Originally Posted by 02fpcivic

For $700 it wont be like mine I promise. Not to sound cocky but I'd put mine up against his on a dyno and a photoshoot and you'll see where the extra $200 went. No stone was left unturned, these are really great manifolds and I think where I've gotten the price to now is very manageble for a serious enthusiast. The 3/8" heat insulator really works well, not to mention everything accepts the factory hardware and is still o-ring fit. Steve and Clint will be very satisfied with the new manifolds if they decide to pick them up.

dont take it the wrong way man i didnt mean it that way. i was just saying i can get one done for that price.

[dezod]

Originally Posted by 02fpcivic

-As for the N/A manifold, The biggest reason I didnt want to make them is because the gains were minimal on a stock engine and most of the people wanting one had Intakes, Header and CAT backs. N/A manifolds are VERY picky when it comes to usable power curves and each combo of parts usually renders different results. The N/A design posted on the site felt great on my car with an intake, long tube header, no cat and 2.5" exhaust. It fattened the midrange up a bit. I'd imagine a stage 2 cam would have had better results. I wouldnt mind trying another one but I wouldnt spend the money unless you at least have a cam, supporting mods, and hondata. I couldnt promise huge gains but I bet we could squeak some more out of it. It would have to be a sidemount TB due to space limitations.

Hey Gerry. I have to agree 100% that an N/A IM is a completely different beast and requires much more TLC when in design. It can't be virtually slapped together by any means! I feel a proper design on the N/A side could be quite beneficial. I have had some ideas for a while now, but did not presue them due to the fact that there is minimal interest to justify production and the cost of R&D would probably never be made back not to mention the end user would get an outrageous bill for production of the unit.

Originally Posted by Rufus

My tuner claims he can do 200whp off 6lbs. We'll see how long that keeps me happy.

Our turbo can do this all day long.

[02fpcivic]

Yeah, basically if I make a N/A manifold for someone at this point I'll only be able to charge materials and minimal labor. I definetely wouldn't make money off of it but I wouldn't mind trying it again. It would be more a labor of love than anything. I have learned a lot since I made that manifold so I'd definetly approach it a lil differently too. Its just a matter of someone wanting to dish out the money for not a ton of power in return. It certainly would make an engine compartment unique.

[bomerman19]

emailed

[02fpcivic]

emailed ya back!

[speedfoos]

FYI, I have 95% of the funds in hand and am just waiting on Steve. Gerry, I'll probably float the first payment of $500 your way on Tuesday so it's not burning a hole in my pocket if you're cool with that.

[exturbo6]

dam clint..lol

[02fpcivic]

lol ok no big deal. You guys should be looking at about 3 1/2 weeks turn-around time like I expected. If I can get them out faster I will.

[speedfoos]

It's either that or I'm going to shit it away on other parts. Everyone is broke after Christmas so it's easy pickins on parts right now. No hurries on your part Steve. This is just insurance for me. Plus if Gerry has my money, my wife can't get at it!

[exturbo6]

lol. ok clint. yeah im shooting for jan 15th like we talked about...im working ot on sat jan 17. so i shouldnt have a problem spending the weeks before money.

[civic-driver]

just in case the thought slipped your guys minds you could have the stock throttle bodies bored out. that way you can keep all the sensors and your cruise control and such.

i know they cant be bored out a whole lot but it doesnt cost much like 100 bucks for a little better breathing for you guys. there is a site of a guy that does them...ummm maxbore.com i have heard good things except from one person on here. that persons tps was acting odd but that was prolly from being dropped at some point which can kill a tps from what im told.

hope this is of some help guys and i look forward to seeing the manifolds on your cars

[speedfoos]

Thanks man, I may bore out the TB myself, but I'll probably just leave it stock and polish it really well. I hadn't planned on trying to eke every single pony out of this car that I can. With the new IM on the Crower-stuffed PnP head, plus a built gut, I'll have more than enough streetable horsepower.

Our main issue with all that power is putting it to the ground. I don't know if you saw Andy's vid or not, but he was completely losing traction in 3rd gear under boost. Not 1st or 2nd - 3rd. For be-boppin' around town purposes 240-250whp is more than enough in this car. With slicks on the strip....I'll take it all please though!

[02fpcivic]

Off topic but here are some pointers for you Clint, and anyone who might want to know.

There's lots of driving techniques you can practice to master FWD drag racing. FWD drag races are won or lost in the first 100ft the majority of the time. If you can't lauch your car, go home, hehe. You can get by on stock axles despite what many people say if you don't drive like a gorrilla.

-Take all the pedal up on the clutch after you stage, just still it starts to barely engage, try to keep the throttle steady, the rpms just inside typical "turbo spool range" and dont dump the clutch too hard. I actually hold the button in and hold up on the handbrake to make sure I don't roll through the beam. The idea is to take up the free play in the drivetrain so you dont shock everything. It does take a toll on the clutch if you get real aggressive so dont let it engage too much and make sure to wait for the other person to pre-stage to avoid excessively heating your clutch.

-In first and second, maybe third depending on your whp, feather the throttle to keep the tires from spinning too much but don't shift untill you have enough mph to not bog in the following gear. A little wheelspin is ok, but try to keep it at a minimum.

- With an open diff. if the tires arent dead straight, your going to fight torque steer and/or one-tire fires, hold onto the wheel. That whole point A-B straight line theory works hear. Only use 1320 ft., not 1400.

-If you have wheel hop at any time back off untill it stops. Wheel hop severly shocks the drivetrain.

-You shouldnt expect your car to come out of the hole like it was fired out of a cannon. Your start should be smooth and you should learn the points where your car will break traction.

-The idea, as simple as it sounds it to always keep good forward momentum(duh).

-Hitting the limmiter, excessive tire spin, and short shifting all are killers on ET. Its disgusting to go to the track on street nights and see guys with 400+whp car running 13.5s because they are aweful drivers.

-Front tire pressure will vary, make sure both tires are the same. My bfgs get set around 22-24psi hot but some people have better luck lower or higher. Usually I test out tire pressure by doing burnouts in front of the house and checking the contact patch width by the width of those sweet black slabs I just layed down on the pavement. Only drop the pressure as much as you need to. If you trailer the car to the track knock a couple psi off that number if the tires are cold, the air will expand when you do a burnout.

-Crank up the rear tire pressure to like 40 psi, less rolling resistance is your freind. If you have coil-overs raise the rears all the way up to help eliminate as much of the weight transfer as possible. Who cares if it looks stupid if you kick everyone's ass, hehe.

Like I said, completely off topic but while I was bored......

[speedfoos]

Excellent stuff Gerry! I'll take every pointer I can get especially since I've got another date with the 1320 on the Sunday the 20th. I had a trade working for a set of slicks with wheels, but that looks like it fell through. Oh well, I'll just wait to get those, but have also been thinking about getting a 2-step. I know AEM makes the AEM CDI Coil Pack Ignition Module which has a built-in 2-step, but I can't find anyone that actually sells it. I'm going email Paul and see if he can get it and how much he'd have to get for one.

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