htc1x

Hi Everyone,

Probably a very common question but with many different outcomes while we all try to explain the sound. Well I have a 1998 honda civic DX. Recently it just started to click/tick. I suspect the valves as it matches the RPM. I remember when it first started. I get the cold misfire's if I let the car sit more than 1 might. I suspect the plugs and condensation causing no spark. Well when it misfires, I usually drive it slow until it warms up and goes fine.

There has been 1 instance were it was particularly bad to the point the check engine light flashes, but eventually started running normal. Ever since then, the click/tick got more noticeable. Will running like that harm connecting rod bearings? I'm hoping that's not the issue.

When I let off the gas, you can hear it as it engine breaks.

Nothing when you idle.

I did the timing belt, pump, and valve adjustments. 40K ago. Should be time for plugs and wires, cap and rotor, but still runs great, no issues at all. Could that be it? All highway miles

thanks

ezone

*COUGH*
" I get the cold misfire's if I let the car sit more than 1 might. I suspect the plugs and condensation causing no spark. Well when it misfires, I usually drive it slow until it warms up and goes fine.

There has been 1 instance were it was particularly bad to the point the check engine light flashes, but eventually started running normal"


It either runs perfect or it doesn't. Which is it?

What was the fault code retrieved when the check engine light was flashing?


You could start with the dist cap/rotor/plugs/wires as needed, replace with quality parts. (I'd want to know more about the noise first before spending money here though)

You could make sure this engine isn't slowly seeping coolant into a cylinder overnight causing misfire upon next startup.

Got oil in it? Ever been run low or run out of oil? Does it consume oil?

Does it get worse or louder during light acceleration, quieter during deceleration?


Post a video with good sound?

htc1x

Sooo, I was low on oil. It does have a slow leak, knew it, just never filled this time around. Dont know why.... Leak is the rear main seal and oil pan gasket.

Filled it up. 2 qts, probably. eeeek. Did this low oil cause some connecting rod bearing damage?

ezone

Low oil level is never good, increased wear is expected. Moving parts that rely upon splash lubrication may be adversely affected first.

If the engine oil is run low enough, long enough, and the engine is pushed hard enough, irreversible and catastrophic damage can result rapidly.


However, if you refilled the oil and the noise is gone and the engine sounds normal again, you may have lucked out this time.
Next time you might not get so lucky.
(If you can't keep the engines vital fluids full, you may get to pay "The Tax".)

htc1x

Hi,
Thanks for your reply.


yeah, very rookie mistake on my part. Drove more today after filling up the oil. About 30 miles of highway driving, I started to notice the tick would go away, then come back for a little. and go away again. Hitting the 40 mile mark, and off the highway, I noticed it stopped being consistent.

Sounds like i had some stuck valves?

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

is this what your sound is like? you can hear it intermittently as I blipped the throttle

edit: heyyyy ezone, look at that, video embedded all by itself

htc1x

ditto, thats it.

What is it in the video?

ezone

Loud rattle during rpm increase = $$$$.¢¢ (plus tax)?

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Rod knock, due to wiped bearing, suspected on cylinder 2 or 3. Swapped the bottom end to fix the problem. Luckily, I had a spare engine laying around that I snatched up a while back when I thought I was gonna do a full engine build, but didn't have time. The engine ended up becoming a source for spare parts.

Edit: Here's my thread when I first discovered it. I posted up because I feared the worst and wanted someone to prove me wrong, only to have people come to the same prognosis. When I finally got around to pulling everything apart (particularly removing the head for transplant), I discovered metal flakes in my VTEC solenoid screen. Unfortunately, you don't have that on your engine, but if you drain your oil and pull the pan, you may discover the same.

If you decide to fix it, we're here to help. Pretty much an engine swap is gonna be the easiest way to fix it. Another option would be to find replacement bearings, but that requires a shop to make sure bearing clearances are proper (and possibly balancing of the crank? I don't know what goes into replacing just the bearings, unfortunately. Maybe ezone does. lol). In any case, I wish you the best of luck and feel free to reach out for help if you need.

htc1x

Soo I did the 2500RPM and plug removal just now to see which cylinder. No change in sound.

New possibility: Pulley bearing going bad. I hear it squeeking pretty loud. I will have to double check again after a drive if these are the same sounds. I also know I didnt change it when I did the timing belt. I looked at it and said I to myself I should change it but didnt have the bearing on hand...

Noticed when cold, it is louder (little higher RPM) When warm, I have to hear it.


Or I may possibly be doing some wishful thinking

ezone

Squeal sounds like a belt or belt related.

Are any belts too loose? Poor condition?
Does the noise go away or change if you dribble water on each belt while the engine is running?

To identify and isolate.....(assuming this engine uses 3 accessory belts)
Remove first (outermost) belt. Start engine. Is squeal gone?
Remove the next belt, start engine, is noise gone?
Repeat...for next belt

when you figure out which belt was causing it, investigate.

IF it's still noisy after all of the accessory belts have been removed, then it's gonna something in the timing belt area.

The adjuster pulley for the AC is usually first to develop a noisy bearing, but that's usually a rumble. The AC pulley is usually the second bearing to get noisy.