97 civic lx cranks no start driving me crazy
#1
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hello there, i'm new to Hondas, but i'm a BMW DIYer, long story short
i have this 97 civic lx with 1.6L it cranks but doesn't start so far i checked everything i know:
i checked coils and it's all good i'm getting spark on all 5 coils
i checked/replaced spark plugs so it's all good here
i checked fuel pump works fine, relay clicks with ignition, also replaced fuel filter
i checked timing belt timing and it's perfect
i checked camshaft position sensor with simple O-meter and i'm getting readings on the far end pins (i have no code that tells me it's bad) in fact i have no codes at all
i checked for Head gasket leak, nothing there, although i'm getting low compression on cylinder 2,3,4 (50-60)psi
i know my injectors work because when i try to start the car then pull all the plugs they come out wet with gasoline
i also sprayed BC on the throttle body with no luck there
so am i missing something here, what's going on
i have this 97 civic lx with 1.6L it cranks but doesn't start so far i checked everything i know:
i checked coils and it's all good i'm getting spark on all 5 coils
i checked/replaced spark plugs so it's all good here
i checked fuel pump works fine, relay clicks with ignition, also replaced fuel filter
i checked timing belt timing and it's perfect
i checked camshaft position sensor with simple O-meter and i'm getting readings on the far end pins (i have no code that tells me it's bad) in fact i have no codes at all
i checked for Head gasket leak, nothing there, although i'm getting low compression on cylinder 2,3,4 (50-60)psi
i know my injectors work because when i try to start the car then pull all the plugs they come out wet with gasoline
i also sprayed BC on the throttle body with no luck there
so am i missing something here, what's going on
#2
Dr Krieger of Modification
Re: 97 civic lx cranks no start driving me crazy
I'm not sure if you don't know how to trouble shoot or you're just writing the short version. So take no offense if you tested the systems properly.
-For no start check all grounds (especially battery terminals, well both), fuses and relays.
-the big three Air, fuel and spark.
Spark
To trouble shoot spark you need a test light or multimeter.
you test every part of the system from plugs back.
It didn't sound like you knew how to test spark at the plug.
remove each plug, use a test light/multimeter or place a screw driver in the wire where the sparkplug sits and crank the engine to see if you get a voltage signal/spark.
If you do then you're fine for spark.... unless
it is low in voltage/amperage and will look yellow in colour, not white/blue.
If you do not see spark then test the wires for continuity.
then test the dizzy.
if the coils on the dizzy are strong then it is your cap and rotor.
Fuel
You need to get a fuel gauge because you can still get fuel to flow quite a bit from a poor pump without flowing with enough pressure to run right.
But I guess you can getto test it by craking the line and turning the ignition to confirm you fave at least some fuel to the fuel rail.
If you have no increase in fuel flow when you turn the ignition then you have a fuel delivery issue...
example: fuel pump, wiring, fuses, relay, ecu signal.
now If you have fuel to the rail, that does not mean fuel in the cylinder, in the right amount.
unplug the injectors and test them with the test light/multimeter and chech the ground connections.
Air
check your throttle cable make sure it is functioning
check your intake sensors
air filter
And check the timing
-For no start check all grounds (especially battery terminals, well both), fuses and relays.
-the big three Air, fuel and spark.
Spark
To trouble shoot spark you need a test light or multimeter.
you test every part of the system from plugs back.
It didn't sound like you knew how to test spark at the plug.
remove each plug, use a test light/multimeter or place a screw driver in the wire where the sparkplug sits and crank the engine to see if you get a voltage signal/spark.
If you do then you're fine for spark.... unless
it is low in voltage/amperage and will look yellow in colour, not white/blue.
If you do not see spark then test the wires for continuity.
then test the dizzy.
if the coils on the dizzy are strong then it is your cap and rotor.
Fuel
You need to get a fuel gauge because you can still get fuel to flow quite a bit from a poor pump without flowing with enough pressure to run right.
But I guess you can getto test it by craking the line and turning the ignition to confirm you fave at least some fuel to the fuel rail.
If you have no increase in fuel flow when you turn the ignition then you have a fuel delivery issue...
example: fuel pump, wiring, fuses, relay, ecu signal.
now If you have fuel to the rail, that does not mean fuel in the cylinder, in the right amount.
unplug the injectors and test them with the test light/multimeter and chech the ground connections.
Air
check your throttle cable make sure it is functioning
check your intake sensors
air filter
And check the timing
#3
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I'm not sure if you don't know how to trouble shoot or you're just writing the short version. So take no offense if you tested the systems properly.
no offense takin
-For no start check all grounds (especially battery terminals, well both), fuses and relays.
fuses all good terminals all okay
-the big three Air, fuel and spark.
Spark
To trouble shoot spark you need a test light or multimeter.
you test every part of the system from plugs back.
It didn't sound like you knew how to test spark at the plug.
remove each plug, use a test light/multimeter or place a screw driver in the wire where the sparkplug sits and crank the engine to see if you get a voltage signal/spark.
what i did first is tested each plug by removing the spark plug and inserting it inside the wire and placing it on the valve cover then cranck the engine ( they all showed spark, then i removed the spark plug and placed the wire by itself and still getting spark and it's white
If you do then you're fine for spark.... unless
it is low in voltage/amperage and will look yellow in colour, not white/blue.
If you do not see spark then test the wires for continuity.
then test the dizzy.
if the coils on the dizzy are strong then it is your cap and rotor.
Fuel
You need to get a fuel gauge because you can still get fuel to flow quite a bit from a poor pump without flowing with enough pressure to run right.
But I guess you can getto test it by craking the line and turning the ignition to confirm you fave at least some fuel to the fuel rail.
i did that, i loosened the line going out from the filter to the rail and got quite a splash of fuel
If you have no increase in fuel flow when you turn the ignition then you have a fuel delivery issue...
example: fuel pump, wiring, fuses, relay, ecu signal.
now If you have fuel to the rail, that does not mean fuel in the cylinder, in the right amount.
unplug the injectors and test them with the test light/multimeter and chech the ground connections.
that's one thing i didn't do assuming that if i'm getting some fuel the car will run poorly and not to not run at all
Air
check your throttle cable make sure it is functioning
check your intake sensors
air filter
i didn't check that either, is that gonna prevent the car from starting?
And check the timing
no offense takin
-For no start check all grounds (especially battery terminals, well both), fuses and relays.
fuses all good terminals all okay
-the big three Air, fuel and spark.
Spark
To trouble shoot spark you need a test light or multimeter.
you test every part of the system from plugs back.
It didn't sound like you knew how to test spark at the plug.
remove each plug, use a test light/multimeter or place a screw driver in the wire where the sparkplug sits and crank the engine to see if you get a voltage signal/spark.
what i did first is tested each plug by removing the spark plug and inserting it inside the wire and placing it on the valve cover then cranck the engine ( they all showed spark, then i removed the spark plug and placed the wire by itself and still getting spark and it's white
If you do then you're fine for spark.... unless
it is low in voltage/amperage and will look yellow in colour, not white/blue.
If you do not see spark then test the wires for continuity.
then test the dizzy.
if the coils on the dizzy are strong then it is your cap and rotor.
Fuel
You need to get a fuel gauge because you can still get fuel to flow quite a bit from a poor pump without flowing with enough pressure to run right.
But I guess you can getto test it by craking the line and turning the ignition to confirm you fave at least some fuel to the fuel rail.
i did that, i loosened the line going out from the filter to the rail and got quite a splash of fuel
If you have no increase in fuel flow when you turn the ignition then you have a fuel delivery issue...
example: fuel pump, wiring, fuses, relay, ecu signal.
now If you have fuel to the rail, that does not mean fuel in the cylinder, in the right amount.
unplug the injectors and test them with the test light/multimeter and chech the ground connections.
that's one thing i didn't do assuming that if i'm getting some fuel the car will run poorly and not to not run at all
Air
check your throttle cable make sure it is functioning
check your intake sensors
air filter
i didn't check that either, is that gonna prevent the car from starting?
And check the timing
#4
Dr Krieger of Modification
Re: 97 civic lx cranks no start driving me crazy
I only know the 01-05 civic timing process.... sooo
Don't do what I describe but It should be quite similar, you will need to locate the exact timing process on this forum.
But for the 01-05 d17 it goes something like:
-Make sure cylinder two is in TDC
-make sure the camshaft is aligned with it's marks
-make sure the crankshaft is aligned with it's marks
-turn the engine two or more full rotations counterclockwise (you can remove the spark plugs to make it easier)
now once you're back with cylinder 2 in tdc the timing marks on both the cam gear and the crank should still sit perfectly. (by the way the cylinder order is not read left to right on the d17 but it may read this way on the d16 please check).
Don't do what I describe but It should be quite similar, you will need to locate the exact timing process on this forum.
But for the 01-05 d17 it goes something like:
-Make sure cylinder two is in TDC
-make sure the camshaft is aligned with it's marks
-make sure the crankshaft is aligned with it's marks
-turn the engine two or more full rotations counterclockwise (you can remove the spark plugs to make it easier)
now once you're back with cylinder 2 in tdc the timing marks on both the cam gear and the crank should still sit perfectly. (by the way the cylinder order is not read left to right on the d17 but it may read this way on the d16 please check).
#5
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I only know the 01-05 civic timing process.... sooo
Don't do what I describe but It should be quite similar, you will need to locate the exact timing process on this forum.
But for the 01-05 d17 it goes something like:
-Make sure cylinder two is in TDC
-make sure the camshaft is aligned with it's marks
-make sure the crankshaft is aligned with it's marks
-turn the engine two or more full rotations counterclockwise (you can remove the spark plugs to make it easier)
now once you're back with cylinder 2 in tdc the timing marks on both the cam gear and the crank should still sit perfectly. (by the way the cylinder order is not read left to right on the d17 but it may read this way on the d16 please check).
Don't do what I describe but It should be quite similar, you will need to locate the exact timing process on this forum.
But for the 01-05 d17 it goes something like:
-Make sure cylinder two is in TDC
-make sure the camshaft is aligned with it's marks
-make sure the crankshaft is aligned with it's marks
-turn the engine two or more full rotations counterclockwise (you can remove the spark plugs to make it easier)
now once you're back with cylinder 2 in tdc the timing marks on both the cam gear and the crank should still sit perfectly. (by the way the cylinder order is not read left to right on the d17 but it may read this way on the d16 please check).
#6
Dr Krieger of Modification
Re: 97 civic lx cranks no start driving me crazy
Also did it run when you bought it? if so did you change anything within the last 3 months (anything at all)?
or
if you bought it in a none running condition do you know the previous owner/ did they change anything within the last three months?
As well
Is there any moisture around the ECU? maybe remove it, open it and look for any burned spots/ smell of electrical fire. If so find a scrap yard ecu and see if that fires up.
or
if you bought it in a none running condition do you know the previous owner/ did they change anything within the last three months?
As well
Is there any moisture around the ECU? maybe remove it, open it and look for any burned spots/ smell of electrical fire. If so find a scrap yard ecu and see if that fires up.
#7
Dr Krieger of Modification
Re: 97 civic lx cranks no start driving me crazy
Perhaps to rule out poor fuel/ wrong fuel type if you bought it with a no start, unplug the injectors, get a friend to crank it while you spray starter fluid.
#8
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I did spray brake cleaner isn't that the same as starter fluid
#9
Dr Krieger of Modification
Re: 97 civic lx cranks no start driving me crazy
Possibly but I would really try starter fluid.
It's possible that brake clean might not work.
I have never tried anything but Starter fluid to get a car to simulate gas.
It's possible that brake clean might not work.
I have never tried anything but Starter fluid to get a car to simulate gas.
#10
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Well I finally figured it out it was the damn spark plugs all along, I switch them first with another car but apparently there where also bad so I got me a new spark plugs and put them in and started like a champ
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What are the chances of four sparkplugs going bad at once?
Still, it happens...if you brought the car to a shop that's the first thing they would replace.
An 04 Civic had an intermittent bad crank sensor. It DID throw a code, but the owner's statement when brought to me was "It won't idle".
Still, it happens...if you brought the car to a shop that's the first thing they would replace.
An 04 Civic had an intermittent bad crank sensor. It DID throw a code, but the owner's statement when brought to me was "It won't idle".
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