B16a2 hesitant, then stalled and died, wouldn't start.
11-19-2015
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B16a2 hesitant, then stalled and died, wouldn't start.
Okay so I just got tags for my b16a2 swapped 98 ex. Last night I was out running around driving it and at the time it was only throwing a code for the second O2 sensor (not wired in)
I noticed as I was driving it seemed very hesitant up until 3k and as soon as it hit 3k you could feel a noticeable increase in power the engine runs very good anywhere over 3000 rpm.
(I think this problem is not related to the next one)
Anyway I'm driving around and at every red light or stop sign it seemed very sluggish off the line, almost like the rpms dropped way low and it just sounded like it was going to sputter out and die. But regardless I kept driving and I noticed a few times when I let off the gas with the vehicle still in gear and coasted, when I put my foot back on to accelerate it wouldn't go anywhere and then all at once the it would go. Jerking the car a bit. Immediately I knew something was wrong. So I decided to head home and as I stopped at a stop sign on the way home the the rpm dropped to zero and the car died. It wouldn't start after this and with every crank the electronics in the car would turn off. This makes me think dead battery or alternator. But after waiting about 10 minutes and checking for loose connections in the engine bay the car started and shut right back off. I figured out that when I could get it to start I needed to keep my foot on the gas so the rpm didn't drop and kill the engine. You can imagine how frustrating it is when you have to go around a turn and you let your foot off the gas and the car dies instantly.. I made it home luckily and when I got there I had a few codes
1.) idle air control valve
2.) fuel trim malfunction (I heard this one could be a vacuum leak)
3.) knock sensor (the sensor was partially unscrewed from he engine)
I reset the codes and started te engine, it idled for a few minutes and when it got up to temp it died.. But now it's only throwing the O2 sensor code again. I should also add that the Evap canister is not hooked up because there is no plug for the purge solenoid on the d16y8 harness that I'm using.
I find it weird though how I was driving around fine one second(besides some bogging) then the next I'm stranded and the car won't keep the rpm above at idle speed.
When I get off work tonight I plan on cleaning the iacv, checking for vacuum leaks. Fuel pressure is good. And Testing the tps any other suggestions? Would really like to get my freshly swapped b16 running correctly so I can drive it lmao
I noticed as I was driving it seemed very hesitant up until 3k and as soon as it hit 3k you could feel a noticeable increase in power the engine runs very good anywhere over 3000 rpm.
(I think this problem is not related to the next one)
Anyway I'm driving around and at every red light or stop sign it seemed very sluggish off the line, almost like the rpms dropped way low and it just sounded like it was going to sputter out and die. But regardless I kept driving and I noticed a few times when I let off the gas with the vehicle still in gear and coasted, when I put my foot back on to accelerate it wouldn't go anywhere and then all at once the it would go. Jerking the car a bit. Immediately I knew something was wrong. So I decided to head home and as I stopped at a stop sign on the way home the the rpm dropped to zero and the car died. It wouldn't start after this and with every crank the electronics in the car would turn off. This makes me think dead battery or alternator. But after waiting about 10 minutes and checking for loose connections in the engine bay the car started and shut right back off. I figured out that when I could get it to start I needed to keep my foot on the gas so the rpm didn't drop and kill the engine. You can imagine how frustrating it is when you have to go around a turn and you let your foot off the gas and the car dies instantly.. I made it home luckily and when I got there I had a few codes
1.) idle air control valve
2.) fuel trim malfunction (I heard this one could be a vacuum leak)
3.) knock sensor (the sensor was partially unscrewed from he engine)
I reset the codes and started te engine, it idled for a few minutes and when it got up to temp it died.. But now it's only throwing the O2 sensor code again. I should also add that the Evap canister is not hooked up because there is no plug for the purge solenoid on the d16y8 harness that I'm using.
I find it weird though how I was driving around fine one second(besides some bogging) then the next I'm stranded and the car won't keep the rpm above at idle speed.
When I get off work tonight I plan on cleaning the iacv, checking for vacuum leaks. Fuel pressure is good. And Testing the tps any other suggestions? Would really like to get my freshly swapped b16 running correctly so I can drive it lmao
11-20-2015
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Re: B16a2 hesitant, then stalled and died, wouldn't start.
fix your secondary o2 sensor sound like your civic has stock obd2b ecu which came with the b16a2(EM1,99-00 civic si) obd2 ecu need both o2 to work right obd1 ecu only used 1 o2 sensor
11-20-2015
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The engine was in my 99 ek before I totaled it. It ran in that car for the entirety of its life without a second O2 sensor and there were no issues because of it. I don't think the problem im having is being caused by not having a second o2. I do plan on hooking it up when I have a chance though.
11-20-2015
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ok well that helps clearing out some of other possiblility. are you still using the same harness you used in the other car? cause 99-00 are obd2b while the 96-98 obd2a slightly different there for you gotta use different ecu. what ecu are you running?
Last edited by Miss EJ6; 11-20-2015 at 02:09 PM.
11-20-2015
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I'm running a d16y8 harness that originally comes in the 98 ex's. Although my harness is actually out of a 96( purchased from eBay) the harness was mostly plug and play besides extending the primary O2. Theres two plugs missing however, one is for the purge solenoid and the other is a plug for the engine coolant temp sensor on the back of the engine. But it started and ran fine without both of those plugs before. The harness runs into an obd2a to obd2b jumper harness and from there into the stock b16 obd2b p2t ecu.
11-21-2015
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Okay so today i cleaned the Iacv with brake cleaner, map sensor oring looked brand new. fps voltage was good. i opened the distributor and one of the connections on the icm was falling off.. i guess when the car died and then abruptly stopped it knocked the connector off and it wouldn't start and when it did wouldn't hold an idle. so at least that was an easy fix. Problems like this seem impossible to diagnose you have to just start replacing sh*t to find it lol. i crimped the connector so it fits much more snug. won't be falling off again.
As for the bogging and hesitation, those problems still exist. Im thinking a vacuum leak but I'm not entirely sure. I'm hoping someone here can give me a starting point as to what could be causing this. going to a do a bit of research for myself as well. any help is appreciated!
As for the bogging and hesitation, those problems still exist. Im thinking a vacuum leak but I'm not entirely sure. I'm hoping someone here can give me a starting point as to what could be causing this. going to a do a bit of research for myself as well. any help is appreciated!
11-24-2015
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could be a possible things, you can spray all the vacuum lines with soapy water to see if there is any hole in the line. recheck your timing in case if it skipped a tooth rarely happens but it does happen. make sure the Right plugs are on the right sensors some of the plug wires are different color on obd2a then the obd2b harness i would look up the plug wire colors and check to see if each are plugged into the right parts. some other parts share the same exact connector.
