6th Generation Civic 1996 - 2000 In the years from 1996 to 2000 Honda released it's 6th Generation Civic.
Chassis codes: EK9, EK4, EK3, EJ6, EJ8, EJ9, EM1

What to look for?

 
Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 10-04-2015
  #1  
Registered!!
Thread Starter
 
cdncivic2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
cdncivic2 is an unknown quantity at this point
What to look for?

I'm looking for a 6th gen (7th gen is acceptable, too, but I'm looking for cheap cars and 7th gen are probably more problematic or prone to problems - especially auto tranny cars, right?) under a grand. Actually, my plan is to buy something around $500 or so and fix it.

I'm wondering if there are 6th gen-specific issues I should look for. I can only think of making sure an auto tranny is okay, still, although the 6th gen is usually okay compared to the next gen. of Civics? I guess brakes, ignition and paint are often problems? I guess, I am mostly looking at major problems that would make me look at another car. I figure rust, naturally, can be an issue especially underneath the car? It's easier to spot the rust in the rear quarter (is that what you call it?) above the wheel well and around the rockers and trunk?

Speaking of rust, can you 'fix' this problem by replacing the quarter panel, trunk or hood?

I'm also wondering if it's possible to find a decent car for this price in the colder climates. That's one of the problems.

Here's some examples of what I've found:
1) '98 Civic - 275K - needs windshield (pictures show usual rust on quarter panel/above wheel well - auto trans.
2) '98 Civic coupe Si - 300K - engine light is on - needs a cat conv. - auto trans
3) 98 sedan - 265K - overheating (needs? thermostat? rad? else?) - auto trans

I also am looking at Accords - this '96 2-dr EX - 5spd - has been sitting for a year - should I not even consider such a car? mileage is okay: 160,000km I know that there's potential problems with rust (the pictures look okay, though) and condensation - leaks etc.

The prices the sellers are asking (for above cars) are all around the high end of $500 or a bit more (or a bit less). I am working on getting this amount. I just am showing some examples and wonder if I could get feedback. Do you think there's a decent chance to get an acceptable car (probably needs further repairs - just listing what the seller says is wrong) rather than a lemon? I hope to avoid the lemons.

Thanks for any help or advice.

Should I consider Accords?

I'm not looking for auto trannys, btw, but the latest 6th gen Civics I've found have all been auto. I guess I should notice during a test drive whether they clunk or not? I shouldn't consider cars that need batteries or don't start?

Do any of you try to use an OBD2 reader/scanner when you go look at cars? Will the sellers allow that?

I guess that's a lot of questions.

I know this is the 7th gen checklist but would the 6th gen apply? I thought there might be some differences to consider?
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...checklist.html

Thanks in advance.
cdncivic2 is offline  
Old 10-04-2015
  #2  
....
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
 
Stock 99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,582
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Rep Power: 179
Stock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of light
Re: What to look for?

Well, I'm glad to see you actually did do some searching... I was going to point you right at that specific post. 7th gen had some different issues than other years (headgasket) but it's still a pretty good general reference.

Buying a car for $500? Meh, I don't know where you live or what you have to do to put a car on the road but if there's a safety inspection inolved your probably better off to spend more on a car. Look at it this way.. buy a car for $500 and then spend $1500 fixing it or buy a car for $2000 instead.
Stock 99 is offline  
Old 10-04-2015
  #3  
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
 
ezone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Posts: 32,019
Received 250 Likes on 182 Posts
Rep Power: 493
ezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond repute
Re: What to look for?

Do any of you try to use an OBD2 reader/scanner when you go look at cars? Will the sellers allow that?
Don't ask, just do it.

$500 or a bit more (or a bit less). I am working on getting this amount.
Don't ever go into buying a used car thinking that's all the money you are going to need. Any used car might need some money spent on fixing problems, and any $500 car is going to need a lot of money thrown at it.

Cars are sold for a reason. You gotta try to figure out why someone is trying to get rid of it before you commit to buying a potential disaster.
Also, sellers WILL LIE to get you to buy their pile of crap.



I picked up an 07 Fit with 200,000 miles on it about 2 months ago.
I got it dirt cheap because it had problems (blown head gasket).
I spent a bit of time and money to fix that, and some other stuff that it needed.
GF is now driving it and is as happy as a pig in sh**, it's a helluva lot nicer car than the Saturn she's been driving for the last 10 years...
ezone is offline  
Old 10-04-2015
  #4  
Registered!!
Thread Starter
 
cdncivic2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
cdncivic2 is an unknown quantity at this point
Re: What to look for?

Originally Posted by Stock 99
Well, I'm glad to see you actually did do some searching... I was going to point you right at that specific post. 7th gen had some different issues than other years (headgasket) but it's still a pretty good general reference.

Buying a car for $500? Meh, I don't know where you live or what you have to do to put a car on the road but if there's a safety inspection inolved your probably better off to spend more on a car. Look at it this way.. buy a car for $500 and then spend $1500 fixing it or buy a car for $2000 instead.
I thought that, but it will take me forever. I will have this amount by next year.

My recent car, a Ford (Mercury, actually) is going to be scrap because of many issues - needing gas and oil leaks fixed, EVAP leak, fuel pump was recently fixed - it's almost empty at 1/4 tank (supposed to be this way?), rusting out - break lines will need a repair, there's a hole in the floor ....I could go on?

I go to a few mechanics and one is pretty cheap comparatively speaking - I just am not confident 100% on troubleshooting, hehe... he's good but he's always busy so it's better when I have a really good idea of the problem. The other mechanic (different shop) is probably good at troubleshooting but more expensive.

Anyway, this is just my perspective, FWIW. I know more repairs will be needed on a $500 car. I am just hoping I will be lucky and not get screwed. If it's $300 - $500 extra, I can save the rest and get it repaired in a few months? I thought I'd get a car that I can drive until next year and get one that is in better shape ($1500 - $2000?) later? Not a good idea?

Originally Posted by ezone
Don't ask, just do it.

Don't ever go into buying a used car thinking that's all the money you are going to need. Any used car might need some money spent on fixing problems, and any $500 car is going to need a lot of money thrown at it.

Cars are sold for a reason. You gotta try to figure out why someone is trying to get rid of it before you commit to buying a potential disaster.
Also, sellers WILL LIE to get you to buy their pile of crap.

I picked up an 07 Fit with 200,000 miles on it about 2 months ago.

I got it dirt cheap because it had problems (blown head gasket).
I spent a bit of time and money to fix that, and some other stuff that it needed.
GF is now driving it and is as happy as a pig in sh**, it's a helluva lot nicer car than the Saturn she's been driving for the last 10 years...
Good points. Perhaps, my idea is not realistic? I was worrying about that. Yeah, I need to keep in mind, most sellers are just lying in the hope of unloading a car for a few extra bucks (over what they'd get from the junkyard?).

Being in Canuck land, you need the safety/certification, too. So, yes, it likely would need to be repaired and 'fit' for the road.

Many of the reasons for someone selling (here) or what they list is they 'don't need it anymore' or 'don't have space in the driveway' (implying more than one car). Dunno if those 'reasons' are good or good explanations for selling even an old used car inexpensively.

I was just hoping I'd be lucky and find a vehicle that my mechanic could fix relatively cheaply.

I was wondering what a good OBD2 reader is. That's why I mentioned it. I think they are invaluable and helpful to get a better idea - especially, when an engine light is on. Is it best to get the actual tool or consider the software ones that run on a PC/laptop? I was curious about apps for smartphones but maybe they are not very reliable?
cdncivic2 is offline  
Old 10-04-2015
  #5  
....
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
 
Stock 99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,582
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Rep Power: 179
Stock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of light
Re: What to look for?

Originally Posted by cdncivic2
I know more repairs will be needed on a $500 car. I am just hoping I will be lucky and not get screwed. If it's $300 - $500 extra, I can save the rest and get it repaired in a few months? I thought I'd get a car that I can drive until next year and get one that is in better shape ($1500 - $2000?) later? Not a good idea?
You'll have to weigh the pros and cons for yourself and your ability to come up with the money. I can tell you when I bought my 99 six years ago I was looking for a $2000 car and everything I looked at was junk.... so I went into more debt than I wanted to and spent almost 3 times that on my Civic. In the past 6 years I haven't spend a dime on repairs except for upper control arms.

Good points. Perhaps, my idea is not realistic? Yeah, I need to keep in mind, most sellers are just lying in the hope of unloading a car for a few extra bucks (over what they'd get from the junkyard?).
ding!ding!ding! we have a winner!

Being in Canuck land, you need the safety/certification, too. So, yes, it likely would need to be repaired and 'fit' for the road.
The 1 car you mentioned in the first post... catalytic converter will cost almost $1000. If you can't do your own work then your adding even more cost to the car.

Do you need to pass emissions testing as well?

I was just hoping I'd be lucky and find a vehicle that my mechanic could fix relatively cheaply.
On a $500 car that would be like winning the lottery.

Honestly you're going to be so much farther ahead to get something that passes safety/emissions even if it costs more.

...or move to BC where you can buy a $500 heap of junk and be driving it hours later... no questions asked....

Like my truck for example....
Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version

Name:	Front2.JPG
Views:	382
Size:	337.2 KB
ID:	88165  
Stock 99 is offline  
Old 10-05-2015
  #6  
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
 
ezone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Posts: 32,019
Received 250 Likes on 182 Posts
Rep Power: 493
ezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond repute
Re: What to look for?

Originally Posted by Stock 99
Like my truck for example....


Lighting not required? LOL
ezone is offline  
Old 10-05-2015
  #7  
....
Hey! Look At Me!! I'm a Supporting Member!!
 
Stock 99's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,582
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes on 3 Posts
Rep Power: 179
Stock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of lightStock 99 is a glorious beacon of light
Re: What to look for?

Funny but where I live I've seen crashed cars with no working front lights driving in the daytime.
Stock 99 is offline  
Old 10-06-2015
  #8  
Registered!!
 
Dave Brabant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Age: 37
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
Dave Brabant is an unknown quantity at this point
Re: What to look for?

i live in quebec and some of my best cars ive owned were 300 - 600 range my lil nissan sentra for 350 i got because of rust and it lasted me 120 000 kms with nothing but maintanance and an alternator. although in quebec we dont have safeties every year
Dave Brabant is offline  
Old 10-16-2015
  #9  
Registered!!
Thread Starter
 
cdncivic2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
cdncivic2 is an unknown quantity at this point
Re: What to look for?

I have a question (questions, plural)?

How much does it cost to re?-program the key if the computer was replaced (ECU, right?)? Seller claims $120. It's a 2001, 5spd and 231K kms. I am just curious.

I'm also finding a few Acura 1.6 ELs (two, recently) Not sure what is wrong with either. Avg kms is around 250K km.

'Probably scrapping my car soon (this week)....just too much to fix to get the conditional e-pass (emissions test). So, I don't know how you look for a car with no car of your own. :-(
cdncivic2 is offline  
Old 10-16-2015
  #10  
Registered!!
Thread Starter
 
cdncivic2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
cdncivic2 is an unknown quantity at this point
Re: What to look for?

Originally Posted by Dave Brabant
i live in quebec and some of my best cars ive owned were 300 - 600 range my lil nissan sentra for 350 i got because of rust and it lasted me 120 000 kms with nothing but maintanance and an alternator. although in quebec we dont have safeties every year
I expect I'll have to repair something if I settle on a car in this price range. I was hoping to find something as a winter beater since I think I'll have more $$ at the end of winter. I just didn't want to go all winter with no vehicle. :-/
cdncivic2 is offline  
Old 10-16-2015
  #11  
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
 
ezone's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Midwest. Aiming about mid-chest
Posts: 32,019
Received 250 Likes on 182 Posts
Rep Power: 493
ezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond reputeezone has a reputation beyond repute
Re: What to look for?

How much does it cost to re?-program the key
Call your dealer and find out.
Then call another and ask the same.
ezone is offline  
Old 10-21-2015
  #12  
Registered!!
 
dave343's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Age: 42
Posts: 9
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
dave343 is an unknown quantity at this point
Re: What to look for?

I would, and did buy a civic for $500 (600 CND) but maybe I got lucky. Actually the guy only wanted $400 (CND) or $600 with the Allows and tires which were nice so I took em.
Looking for and buying a car in this price range you have to be willing to overlook a lot.
Depending how far north the car is, it's going to have rust. Thankfully mine has very little on the rear panels (just bubbling), and the underneath is actually pretty free of rust.
It's going to have high KM's... mine is at 552'000 KM's! although someone dropped in a JDM D15B but at what point I don't know so my engine has less. But Honda's are good for it anyways... right
The interior might have rips, missing items, broken radio (dude actually gave me a JVC Bluetooth CD/MP3 player), and the interior may not be the cleanest.

So, overall I think finding a car in the $500 price range is definitely possible. It just comes down to what you are willing to fix, it if need's fixing, and what things are you willing to overlook.

I think I got lucky because I only needed to change the front and rear brakes, do an oil change, and I've already put on 250km's and it drives smooth. Manual transmission with a hair of a 3rd gear grind but else it's smooth changing gears.

My power windows and locks work great, sunroof works great, lights, dash, idling is smooth, gas mileage is 100x better then my 2007 Montana. That 250km i got on $15 (cnd) of gas! I get about 90km for $15 in the Montana.

Cars in that price range are out there to be had, you just have to look. I got mine off Kijiji. You have to expect it's going to need a bit of work, otherwise the previous owner wouldn't be getting rid of it. Unless it became to old for him.

And yes... the paint was suppose to look like that. The guy said he wanted it to look like a "Rat Rod"


Last edited by dave343; 10-21-2015 at 08:57 AM.
dave343 is offline  
Old 01-13-2016
  #13  
Registered!!
Thread Starter
 
cdncivic2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2015
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Rep Power: 0
cdncivic2 is an unknown quantity at this point
Re: What to look for?

Hey, do you guys mind if I bump this?

There's a revised plan now... I hope to be in the market for March/April at the latest and to extend the search to 8th generation Toyota Corollas and 1st generation Acura 1.6 EL vehicles. What do you think? I thought of omitting 2nd gen. Acura 1.6 ELs because I suspect they might be more likely to possess the same 7th gen. Civic AT problems. Does anyone agree? Is my new plan good? (The 2nd gen., for the most part, is probably going to be out of my budget any way...)?

My budget will hopefully allow me to get a bit better car than I was originally looking at as it should be closer to two grand.... around $1500 give or take a $100. Maybe, I'll have up to $1700 and a few hundred at some point if I need it for the safety (or just look for a car already safetied for $1700)? Any thoughts?

I was also wondering about parts that the EL can use? Some parts from Civics can also be used in the EL?

Thanks for any replies!
cdncivic2 is offline  
 




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 05:23 AM.