civic1997ex

hey guys im new to the forum and lookin for help and advice.. i just recently picked up a 97 civic ex sedan.. due to the fact of it being a sedan, i plan on making the car a sleeper. i have 17 inch rims and lo pro tires and im puttin a front and rear lip on the car but besides that not much to the exterior. here is what ive got for the motor thoughts. please respond with your thoughts.. im new to this and dont know what works and what doesnt.. take a look!


JE pistons 75.50mm (.020) Bore, 9.8:1 CR, -11.9cc Dish
JE piston rings
BLOX tuner cam shaft 235 Intake / 223 Exhaust
BLOX valve springs
BLOX titanium valve spring retainers
BLOX exhaust valves
BLOX intake valves
BLOX engine block filler
Skunk2 intake manifold
Skunk2 70mm throttle body
AEM cold air intake
DC sports header
DC sports cat back exhaust
magnaflow high flow catalytic converter
ACL rod bearings
ACL thrust bearings
toga high volume oil pump


please help!

Zeferint

iTrader: (2)

not sure what you're asking--do you want to know the function of each part? in that case, google is your friend!

civic1997ex

i dont know that much about motors and performance.. my area is more car audio.. but for this build im lookin to make a fun daily driver but yet something i can take to the track and get some good times... im also thinkin of a rev hard stage 2 bolt on turbo kit.. i guess what im asking is... are these parts good.. will they give me more power.. will they work with a turbo set up.. are they good quality.. i dont know much about this.. ive done lots of reading and looked for reviews.. but i guess im just lookin to see if anyone is runnin these parts and how they feel about them

civic1997ex

hey guys i was wondering if you can swap a B18 into a 1997 honda civic ex witch currently has a D16Y8.. is it worth it. what motors better..

TRIZ

iTrader: (14)

If your going NA, why are you going for low compression pistons? ...are you planning to turbo in the future? If so, the header-back exhaust system is a waste of money- you'll have to replace it anyways.

Whats your main goal, and how much do you have to work with? Most people create a huge list of parts they want, but dont have any money. They start piecing it together but then halfway though the list they give up and sell it all.

Zeferint

iTrader: (2)

Well, since you don't know much about performance, I think it's probably better to know what the parts actually are before you put them in your car. Like Tyrese Gibson (Roman Pierce in 2F2F), a real driver knows everything thats under the hood of their car.

Just so you know, using the same car as a daily driver and a track car is very tough, but possible. You're going to have to bleed the brakes after every track day, replace the pads, and rotors possibly every other track day. You are also going to but a ton of wear on the car. With (and sorry to take this slightly off topic) a turbo kit, you're going to eventually break something. It's why I like to stay N/A, but anyway, to get back to what your question, its tough to say whats good, because as far as d16's go, there really isn't a whole lot of options. If you had, say, a B18C out of a 96 GSR, then you could go nuts.

Skunk and DC are well-known brands, and really what it comes down to is preference. As far as your build itself goes, the AEM V2 is pretty much top of the line, but costs ~$400. All an intake really is, is just a pipe with a filter on it. I think I saw a DIY on the this forum somewhere of a guy that made one entirely of parts from home depot...

Bore is the diameter of the cylinder in an engine. If you increase the bore, you are increasing the diameter, increasing the potential power (and, depending on the build, compression can also be altered).

CR is compression ratio, which is the ratio between the volume of the cylinder and combustion chamber when the piston is at the bottom of its stroke, and the volume of the combustion chamber when the piston is at the top of its stroke. In English, picture a cylinder and its combustion chamber with the piston at the bottom of its stroke containing 1000 cc of air (900 cc in the cylinder plus 100 cc in the combustion chamber). When the piston has moved up to the top of its stroke inside the cylinder, and the remaining volume inside the head or combustion chamber has been reduced to 100 cc, then the compression ratio would be proportionally described as 1000:100, or with fractional reduction, a 10:1 compression ratio.

I am not familiar with the JE or BLOX brand(s), but I believe the remaining items are (fairly) self-explanatory. I am not exactly sure what the numbers on the camshaft mean (intake/exhaust), however I know that you have an intake camshaft and an exhaust camshaft (which are all part of a cylinder), so I'd take an educated guess to say thats a ratio of air intake versus exhaust output, since some of the air that is used during the combustion process gets consumed. Though according to the law of conservation of energy i'm not sure why the numbers aren't equal. I guess that means I'm wrong..?

Magnaflow cat's are solid. Good choice.

Rod bearings are little half circular shells that fit inside the connecting rods of most engines to act as clearance spacers for attachment of connecting rods to a crankshaft.

The thrust bearings are in between the crankshaft and block housing.


Over 60% of the info in this post came from wikipedia

Hope this helps.

civic1997ex

ive got about a grand saved up and im also working and makin a grand a month roughly. my main goal is to have a sick street car and also a car i can bring to the track and race it. and i didnt know those were low compression.. thats why i was asking.. what should i be looking for?

Zeferint

iTrader: (2)

I didn't say they were low compression (even though they are, lol). It depends on what you want. If you plan on running a turbo, then low compression pistons are good. If you are running N/A, you want extremely high compression. Also, since you're keeping the D16, all of those parts are going to run you probably around $3500 (ballpark). I think just the pistons w/ rings are going to run you $500, not sure about the other stuff.

TRIZ

iTrader: (14)

Being someone that regularly works on a race car that is also a daily river, its very possible. Reliability depends on how "race" you wanna go.

I think you need to seriously decide on what you wanna do, before you throw parts together. If you want to go NA, go NA, but first understand what NA is. Use the search button, everything you want to know is easily searchable. Creating threads (and double posting them in different sections- one of which I just deleted) isnt the way to start off. Your too broad right now, search a little and come back with specifics.

Zeferint

iTrader: (2)

Yes you can. Define "whats worth it". A B18 swap can run you up to $7000. Do some research. Here is a list of every single motor ever made from Honda (found this with the good ol' search function). What's better? Don't know. Define "better". What are you looking to do? Turbo? Supercharger? Twin charge? Electric supercharger of pwnness? Still haven't really figured out after reading your 5 other threads regarding this topic.
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BIG THANKS TO TBOHAR -- CREDIT FOR THIS INFO GOES TO HIM

Here are the specifications of engine swaps possible for all generation of civics, remember you can only swap in engines that are newer than your car. You cannot put a B16 into a 2005 civic, it is illegal. This is why I am including the years the engines were manufactured:


JDM B16 Generation 1 (Last year manufactured: 1991)

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 1595
Compression: 10.2
Horsepower: 160hp at 7600rpm
Torque: 111lbs/ft at 7000rpm
ECU OBD0

JDM B16 Generation 2(Last year manufactured: 1998)

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 1595
Compression: 10.4
Horsepower: 170hp at 7800rpm
Torque: 114.58 at 7300rpm
ECU: OBD1


JDM B16B (Last year manufactured: 2000)

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 1595
Compression: 10.8
Horsepower: 185hp at 8200rpm
Torque: 116.7 at 7500rpm
ECU: OBD-2A

B16A1 (Last year manufactured: ???)

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 1595
Compression: 10.8
Horsepower: 150hp at 7600rpm
Torque: 106 at 7100rpm
ECU: OBD0 except for 92-93(OBD1)

B16A2 (Last year manufactured: 2000)

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 1595
Compression: 10.2
Horsepower: 160hp at 7600rpm
Torque: 111 at 7000rpm
ECU:

B16A3 (Last year manufactured: 1995)

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 1595
Compression: 10.2
Horsepower: 160hp at 7600rpm
Torque: 118 at 7500rpm

B16A4 (Last year manufactured: 2000)

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 1595
Compression: 10.4
Horsepower: 121hp at 7800rpm
Torque: 111 at 7300rpm

B16A5 (Last year manufactured: 2000)

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 1595
Compression: 10.4
Horsepower: 174hp at 7800rpm
Torque: 111 at 7300rpm

B16A6 (Last year manufactured: 2000)(South Africa, Middle East)

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 1595
Compression: 10.2
Horsepower: 158hp at ???rpm
Torque: ??? at ???rpm


US B18C (1994-2001)

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 1595
Compression: 10
Horsepower: 170 at 7600rpm
Torque: 128 at 6200rpm

US B18C "Type R civic (1997-2001)"

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 1797
Compression: 10.6
Horsepower: 195 at 8000rpm
Torque: 130 at 7500rpm

US B18C "96 Civic Type R"

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 1797
Compression: 11.1
Horsepower: 200 at 7600rpm
Torque: 133 at 6200rpm

H22A Prelude Black Valve Cover

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 2157
Compression:
Horsepower: 200 at 6800rpm
Torque: 161 at 5500rpm


H22A Red Valve Cover

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 2157
Compression:
Horsepower: 220 at 7200rpm
Torque: 163 at 6500rpm

H22A Accord Black Valve Cover

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 2157
Compression:
Horsepower: 190 at 6800rpm
Torque: 152 at 5500rpm

H22A1 Black Valve Cover

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 2157
Compression:
Horsepower: 190 at 6800rpm
Torque: 158 at 5500rpm

H22A2 Accord Black Valve Cover

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 2157
Compression:
Horsepower: 185 at ???rpm
Torque: ???

H22A4 Black Valve Cover

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 2157
Compression:
Horsepower: 200 at 7000rpm
Torque: 156 at 5250rpm

H22A5 Black Valve Cover

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 2157
Compression:
Horsepower: 185 at ???rpm
Torque: ??? at ???rpm

H22A7 Red Valve Cover

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 2157
Compression:
Horsepower: 215 at ???rpm
Torque: ??? at ???rpm

H22A8 Red Valve Cover

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC VTEC)
Displacement: 2157
Compression:
Horsepower: 200 at ???rpm
Torque: ??? at ???rpm

K20A JDM Type R Civic(EP3)

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC i-VTEC)
Displacement: 1998
Compression: 11.5
Horsepower: 215 at 8000rpm
Torque: 150 at 7000rpm

K20A2 RSX/Civic Type R Euro

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC i-VTEC)
Displacement: 1998
Compression: 11
Horsepower: 200 at 7800rpm
Torque: 141 at 5600rpm

K20A3 Civic Si

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC i-VTEC)
Displacement: 1998
Compression: 9.8
Horsepower: 160 at 6500rpm
Torque: 140 at 5000rpm

K24A2 TSX

Cylinders: Inline 4 cylinder (DOHC i-VTEC)
Displacement: 2354
Compression:
Horsepower: 200 at 6800rpm
Torque: 171 at 4500rpm

Zeferint

iTrader: (2)

Very cool. Cool thing about us Honda owners is we pay way less then everyone else I think my brother spent almost $6500 on coilovers for his 03' Evo (it rides like a freaking bentley though...)

Did you manage to race at monticello before they closed it off to the public?

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

BLOX i heard is not too good and there were some failures (key?). use crower instead.

PVC intake - bwaahahaha! but it seems to work
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/7...ever-done.html

The numbers on teh cams are the angle that they remain open. Intake have lower velocity than exhaust due to combustion pressures, so they need to remain open longer. But that does not describe completely cam shafts either. drag cams are likely alsmost square, while some economy ones are likely very peaky. DOHC will have the cross-angle in between them different too depending on adjustment (forgot the technical name for that...), and much, much more. Good books in engines does explain the basics of engines. A quick visit to a barnes noble for example could save your engine later on

TRIZ

iTrader: (14)

Unfortunately the car isnt mine, but it gets raced at PIR mainly.

Zeferint

iTrader: (2)

Gotcha. That makes sense. Unfortunately there's not even a borders around here. I think I'll pay their website a visit.