stevefire05

Ok I have a 1998 honda civic d16y7 motor I just replaced the head gasket and had the head rebuilt at machine shop. Valve job resurfaced clean the hole works. I have triple checked the timming and it is on I adjusted the valves according to the specs. Compression on cylinder one is 180 2 179 3 165 4 179 that is on warm engine. I have a cracked exhaust manifold near the o2 sensor and a ticking noise that increases with the throttle. It is all the time in gear and out driving or idle. It sounds like valve lash to me I can here it in the car with the doors shut it is kinda loud. Wondering what yall think it could be any help would be nice. Car is running great.

stevefire05

Car has 167000 miles and never had a ticking noise till this job. I am running Castro 5w 30 high mileage oil.

ezone

I can't hear nuthin from here!

Use a stethoscope (long screwdriver or a dowel to your ear) to try to pinpoint the location of the noise.

Exhaust manifold cracks opened up a little more since it was disturbed?

Double check valve adjustments?

Something in the belt driven accessories? (remove the belts and run it as a test)

stevefire05

The noise is all over the head cant pin point it, the crack in the manifold didn't seem to get any worse, I am going to do a leak down test and check the valve lash again and belts. I just wonder if the compression being lower on #3 165 could be from a bent valve?

ezone

A leakdown test should be able to let you figure out where the leakage is going.

If there isn't enough pressure to reveal the source of leakage, remove the leakdown tester and apply full line pressure directly into each cylinder.

stevefire05

I am going to do the leak down test Sunday, I just hope the new rebuild head is good. it is under warranty so trying to figure it out.

ezone

You're within 10% variation.... Is it setting a misfire code?


A bad overheat can take the spring tension out of the rings, resulting in compression loss and/or oil consumption. How bad was it overheated?

stevefire05

It was not overheated that bad never hit red line. i am about to do a wet compression test and test for leakage with air line. dont have leak down tester just going to apply air to the #3 and see if i can tell where the leak is. i just hope its not a bent valve on a rebuild head. i am getting no codes its idling great and running great just the loud ticking.

stevefire05

ok just rechecked compression and its 180 on all 4 cylinders. Engine warm and wot all plugs out. Should i even preform a leak test if i am now getting good compression reading on all cylinders? Going to let the car sit all day and check valves later tonight.

ezone

Wait, was this new test the wet test or was it a dry test?

If that was a wet test, then even the good cylinders should have come up a little bit.


If dry compression test was good then there isn't normally a need for a wet or a leak test.




Thought: You sure you haven't been hearing the injectors ticking? They are kinda loud on some engines.

stevefire05

ok dry test is 180 across, Wet test #1 209 #2 211 #3 211 #4 212. I pulled the connectors off of the injectors one by one while it was running and know change in the noise not sure if thats the proper way to check that.

ezone

Stethoscope?


Was the valvetrain/rocker arms/rocker shafts disassembled? Any pieces/springs/washers/pins missing?

stevefire05

Got it fixed after letting it cool all day i readjusted the valves, one valve had came lose? dont understand how adjusted it the same way as last time. The bolt you loosen to adjust the valve lash was almost all the way off. Now it sound great no more knocking/ticking!