6th Gen Honda CivicIn the years from 1996 to 2000 Honda released it's 6th Generation Honda Civic. This Honda Civic had a more aggressive front end and overall body style. It was an instant hit among import tuners.
Welcome to civicforums.com!
Welcome to civicforums.com.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to start new topics, reply to conversations, privately message other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join civicforums.com today!
So did you ever resolve the issue with your passenger window? I've got the EXACT same issue, and I can't figure it out!
jbsf and op, did either of you resolve this issue? My '98 HX is the same -- master switch does nothing (with or without the window lock on), and the passenger switch will only go up. Checking with a voltmeter, I got no power using the master switch. Using the passenger switch, I got the following results:
blue/white is ground w/no switches pressed, and while in the up position. In the down position it is +12.
blue/red is +12 in the up position, but is NOT ground in the down position.
Is there a power window control module in these cars?
You should measure the voltage at the leads going to the problem window's motor (sorry I do not know the wire colors on this generation) The polarity between the 2 wires should reverse for the up / down operation.
You can also apply voltage to the disconnected motor to see if it moves (you may need to reverse polarity)
You should measure the voltage at the leads going to the problem window's motor (sorry I do not know the wire colors on this generation) The polarity between the 2 wires should reverse for the up / down operation.
You can also apply voltage to the disconnected motor to see if it moves (you may need to reverse polarity)
Thanks. Yeah, that is what I did. I disconnected the motor and checked for voltage and ground on each wire. In the direction that works, I get +12 on one wire and ground on the other. In the other direction, I get +12 on the correct wire, but no ground on the other. So, that would sound like a bad ground, but I need a circuit diagram to trace out the ground. I assume I have to trace it through the switch and door, and into the car somewhere.
To give a little more background, my car doors had a few dents when I got it. The passenger window worked at that time, but the regulator was shot. I got the window rolled back up, but then it wouldn't roll down again. I'm guessing during the process of rolling the window back up I blew a fusible link, or a control module if there is one, or ???
I installed the 2nd set of doors and the problem persists. So, I have swapped master switch, passenger switch, door wiring on both sides, motor and regulator. My theory is that the problem does not exist in the doors. There is a broken module, control, relay, fusible link, ground connection inside the car, or broken wire in the door jamb. But, if the same symptoms are on three different cars, I don't think it is a broken wire.
Thanks for any insight. If someone has an electrical diagram, that would be great.
Thanks a lot! So, there is a control unit, but it is built into the master switch, and only deals with the driver's window, which works fine. Armed with this diagram, I'll check out the car in the light tomorrow, and let you know what I find.
Switches on both sides ohm out correctly -- they are not the problem. Unplugged both switches, and checked continuity from plug to plug. The blue/orange wire is continuous, but the blue/yellow is not. Stranger than that, the blue/yellow wire has +12 on it on the passenger plug (w/ ignition on)! Guess I'll start tracing that wire in the daylight...
Just looking at the symptoms and the diagram, if either of those wires are broken, you will get the symptoms of the master switch does nothing, and the secondary switch will only work in one direction.
Of course I started at the wrong end, but I found and fixed the problem this evening. In case any one needs to know, the door wiring goes down through the front quarters, through the door sills, and under the seats. I did not see any connectors all the way through the car.
My problem was the connector to the driver's door. I pulled back the rubber boot, and four wires were loose. Apparently the window wire was hitting a power wire occasionally, which was why I had +12 on it one time.
Fortunately I had pulled the connector when I bought the set of doors from the junkyard, so I was able to splice and solder on the new connector. The side benefit is that my speakers sound much better.
