6th Gen Honda CivicIn the years from 1996 to 2000 Honda released it's 6th Generation Honda Civic. This Honda Civic had a more aggressive front end and overall body style. It was an instant hit among import tuners.
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With the car engine off and key in # II position and dome light on... Look for slight dimming of the dome light while attempting troubled window. ( no dimming may mean voltage not reaching motor, dimming using up and down may indicate window is binding)...
Dimming did occur...if the window is binding, can you or anyone else expand on how to confirm and fix this type of problem?
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Last edited by mnea; 10-16-2007 at 11:30 AM.
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Regarding the problem with the front passenger power window, it's pretty clear that the switch is fine. Based on all the information, I believe that the likely culprit is the front passenger window motor. I had to replace two such window motors in a 1998 Toyota Sienna, and the symptoms were very similar to those you have described.
The attached file describes how to test a Civic passenger window motor for defects. I hope this information helps.
By the way, did you figure out the problem with the front driver window?
Sounds like your window motor might be bad. I had the exact same kind of problem on my wifes minivan. I even took the motor out and put power to it. Wtih no load it worked fine, as soon as I put load on it, it stopped. BTW a cheap Volt-Ohm meter comes in handy. You can pick one up at radio shack for about $15.00. Good luck.
Is it possible that the passnger motor is blown? With the driver side window, go out and buy a 20 dollar Hayne's manual, it comes in handy, and it tells you how to remove the panels. Realign the track and you should be good.
...The attached file describes how to test a Civic passenger window motor for defects. I hope this information helps.
Thanks Ron, posting that file was very thoughtful. Step 3 kind of confuses me however, It says to check window operation by connecting power and ground according to table. Excuse my ignorance but I'm not really sure how to do that.
Quote:
By the way, did you figure out the problem with the front driver window?
Not yet...it seems to be kind of loose or off the track. It appears to be aligned properly but then on the way up it ends up outside the rubber stripping and will not close. However, I can pull it inwards a little on the way up and get it to align properly and close.
Sounds like your window motor might be bad. I had the exact same kind of problem on my wifes minivan. I even took the motor out and put power to it. Wtih no load it worked fine, as soon as I put load on it, it stopped. BTW a cheap Volt-Ohm meter comes in handy. You can pick one up at radio shack for about $15.00. Good luck.
Nitri, Thanks for the reply. Your wife is a very lucky woman to have a man like you around to help her. Once again, please excuse my ignorance but can you please explain what no load vs load means, what a "Volt-Ohm meter" is and how to use it to help me in this situation?
Is it possible that the passnger motor is blown? With the driver side window, go out and buy a 20 dollar Hayne's manual, it comes in handy, and it tells you how to remove the panels. Realign the track and you should be good.
I've got the Honda service manual and have become familiar with removing the panels at least on the front and rear passenger side doors with a little help from my friends here...especially juan_p__m...Thanks again! However, I can't seem to find anything on realigning the front driver's side window properly in it's track. Is the Hayne's manual more helpful than the Honda service manual?
I'll do my best to explain the motor test and the good suggestion made by Nitri Express.
The motor test illustrated in the picture I posted tells you to bypass the power window switch on the door by disconnecting the 2P connector and then to provide a separate 12V power source directly to the window motor. The motor should move the window up or down depending on the polarity of the + or - wires from the power source to the 2P connector. If the window motor does not operate as expected, then it should be replaced.
Nitri Express' suggestion (I believe) is that you also verify that the power switch is working properly by disconnecting the 2P connector and showing that you detect proper voltage from the switch-side of the 2P connector when you press the power window switch in either the up or down position. The tool used to perform this simple test is an inexpensive Multimeter that you can purchase from any hardware store. The answer about load vs no-load is testing window motor operation when the motor is either moving a window (load) or disconnected from a window (no load).
With all this said, I believe that the motor is likely your problem. To test this, you could also purchase a replacement motor from your local auto parts chain (carefully unpackage and save all packaging in case you need to return part) and install it. If the window now works, then you are done. If the window does not work (unlikely), return for a refund and simply tell them that the part was not needed.
Your other problem with the driver window alignment is likely the regulator. Check for any loose or broken parts. Comparing operation of the driver and passenger side regulator may help you figure out the problem.
first, with the driver door, go to an autoparts store and get some silicon spray lube! the reason it keeps coming off the track is because the track needs lubed! make sure you use silicon spray lube because regular greese wont work.
the passenger window? have you checked the wiring from the chassis to the door? there is a plug there, you should make sure you dont have any severed wiring - i did, i fixed it, now my windows and power locks work great.
also again with the pasenger window, use the silicon lube again, you might be having a problem with friction!
...BTW a cheap Volt-Ohm meter comes in handy. You can pick one up at radio shack for about $15.00. Good luck.
At Radio Shack they come in different "ranges" such as "8 range", "15 range", "17 range", etc...What's the meaning of the range rating and which Volt-Ohm meter is recommended for the money?
At Radio Shack they come in different "ranges" such as "8 range", "15 range", "17 range", etc...What's the meaning of the range rating and which Volt-Ohm meter is recommended for the money?
Just a basic meter will do, I would go with the DMM type. Mainly for voltage and resistance checks. Some have continuity beep.
To keep it safe be sure of meter setting before test, Never apply voltage when set into resistance or current mode.
Another good tool for voltage checks is a 12 volt test lamp from the auto parts store.
