D17A1 Running Rough After Timing Belt Replacement
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I just finished replacing the timing belt and cylinder head on my car.It ran great for a couple of days and today started running really rough. I've read that the tb could have skipped one tooth.I replaced the tensioner and followed the installation instructions.How could this happen?
Is there any other reason that the car would run rough after a couple of days?
Is there any other reason that the car would run rough after a couple of days?
#2
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Re: D17A1 Running Rough After Timing Belt Replacement
and today started running really rough.
I've read that
Your tools are still warm, shouldn't take long to get that far apart LOL
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Does this mean theres a problem with the belt tensioner? I turned the engine over twice by hand before removing the factory clip in the tensioner.The bolt was torqued to factory spec and I used all Honda parts.
#4
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Re: D17A1 Running Rough After Timing Belt Replacement
Does this mean theres a problem with the belt tensioner?
For all you know, this could be a brand new problem completely unrelated to work you did 2 days ago. Until you KNOW otherwise, you're just guessing.
So what's the fault code?
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I had a buddy check the codes because I'm in a different town.I don't know the numbers but one was a low reading from the O2 sensor and the other was the Crank Position Sensor out of range.He cleared both and drove the car.Seems to be running fine now.Very weird.Had me second guessing my work...lol.
#6
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Re: D17A1 Running Rough After Timing Belt Replacement
Sounds like maybe a P0137 code? (if code was for front sensor B1S1)
The O2 sensor will likely reset the code again in the future, many types of faults are intermittent.
The CKP code (P0335/P0336/P0339).......You had to unbolt the crank sensor to slip the timing belt off and on......Did you unplug the wiring harness when you did that? If so, you could have created an intermittent contact issue between the terminals of the harness and sensor by disturbing the connection.
That connector may also be susceptible to moisture entry if the seal is compromised, and liquid in an electrical connection is not good. Inspect for signs of corrosion on both the sensor terminals and the harness connector terminals.
The O2 sensor will likely reset the code again in the future, many types of faults are intermittent.
The CKP code (P0335/P0336/P0339).......You had to unbolt the crank sensor to slip the timing belt off and on......Did you unplug the wiring harness when you did that? If so, you could have created an intermittent contact issue between the terminals of the harness and sensor by disturbing the connection.
That connector may also be susceptible to moisture entry if the seal is compromised, and liquid in an electrical connection is not good. Inspect for signs of corrosion on both the sensor terminals and the harness connector terminals.
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I did disconnect the Crank Sensor and the O2 sensor when I disconnected the wiring harness.Hopefully the codes won't come back.
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Rep Power: 104 Re: D17A1 Running Rough After Timing Belt Replacement
Unrelated question about the timing belt tensioner for ezone that doesn't deserve its own thread:
I had my timing belt and water pump replaced on my 2005 EL a short while ago but the dealer said they didn't have any tensioners so I kept my old one. They said there was nothing wrong with the original and that it's not very common for the OEM belt tensioner to go bad (not sure if I believe that).
Can the belt tensioner pulley be replaced by accessing it through the lower cover without going through the whole process over again?
I had my timing belt and water pump replaced on my 2005 EL a short while ago but the dealer said they didn't have any tensioners so I kept my old one. They said there was nothing wrong with the original and that it's not very common for the OEM belt tensioner to go bad (not sure if I believe that).
Can the belt tensioner pulley be replaced by accessing it through the lower cover without going through the whole process over again?
#9
If you think a good mechanic is expensive, try hiring a bad one
Re: D17A1 Running Rough After Timing Belt Replacement
Unrelated question about the timing belt tensioner for ezone that doesn't deserve its own thread:
I had my timing belt and water pump replaced on my 2005 EL a short while ago but the dealer said they didn't have any tensioners so I kept my old one. They said there was nothing wrong with the original and that it's not very common for the OEM belt tensioner to go bad (not sure if I believe that).
Can the belt tensioner pulley be replaced by accessing it through the lower cover without going through the whole process over again?
I had my timing belt and water pump replaced on my 2005 EL a short while ago but the dealer said they didn't have any tensioners so I kept my old one. They said there was nothing wrong with the original and that it's not very common for the OEM belt tensioner to go bad (not sure if I believe that).
Can the belt tensioner pulley be replaced by accessing it through the lower cover without going through the whole process over again?
I used to go on the assumption that the original tensioner would last to the 2nd belt change (200k), then replace it at that time.....but after reading others stories here I see it may fail earlier than I expected.
Now I suggest it be replaced at every 100k belt maint, and use Honda part.
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Rep Power: 104 Re: D17A1 Running Rough After Timing Belt Replacement
Originally Posted by ezone
I've never tried it that way, and I've not ever looked to see if that's a possibility.
#11
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Re: D17A1 Running Rough After Timing Belt Replacement
The spring still has to be hooked up, think you can accomplish that without pulling the upper cover?
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Re: D17A1 Running Rough After Timing Belt Replacement
I have a 2003 Acura EL and did not replace the tensioner as well. It was explained to me that it is a spring mechanism and fairly robust to last until next TB change. Not like the hydraulic type that was on my Odyssey van. At the time, I was doing the TB service and the head gasket and costs were creeping up there. In hindsight, I could have paid another $150 CDN for the tensioner for the peace of mind but bill was already $1500K.
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After replacing my timing belt I don't think you it can be done without removing the top cover. Also at first start up my car ran rough and I thought I ****ed my motor up. turns out I missed a tooth and had to open her back up to fix it.