Ohyaimember

I have an oil leak that appears to be coming from the oil seal on my oil pump. This is my first time doing any major repair on a vehicle, so i have little experience. From what I understand it is a good idea to replace the timing belt due to oil leaking into it, as well as the water pump. I will include a list of the parts I have purchased for this repair so far, so if theres something else that i should replace, i would encourage any suggestions. My real question though is what steps do i have to take to get to my oil pump? I just removed my oil pan so you know where I am at for a reference.

High temp rtv sealant
water pump
timing belt
power steering belt
alternator belt
oil pump o ring and seal
brake parts cleaner
replacement oil and coolant
torque wrench

RIPSAW

Have you broken the crank pulley loose or have tools to do that? Are your parts OEM from a Honda dealer? Do you have a service manual? Were there signs of oil pump problems? Maybe just the seal for that. How many miles on car?

Search Youtube for this repair for sure and watch closely till you have all the detail in your head.

ezone

Oil filter
Permatex Ultra Gray RTV, or Hondabond

Razor scraper, single edge razor blades
gasket scraper or sharp putty knife?

Tensioner pulley and spring kit from HONDA (not cheap, worth every penny)

Be very familiar with the timing belt job before you dive in.

Exhaust hardware may cause headaches if rusty




I'd link my pics of the pump removed, but imigur seems flaky right now.

Ohyaimember

I havent broken it loose yet but i have watched videos. I have some socket wrenches that will fit on the crank pullet but i dont have any breaker bars, or that special tool for it. I also watched a video on the timing belt replacement. So if i remove the crank pulley can i just pull the timing belt off and get into the oil pump, and possibly the water pump then? Or do i have to start digging into my car from the top down? Also i purchased these parts on the internet but they say they are the original parts, not some knock off.

Ohyaimember

ok i forgot to mention i have a gasket scraper. I have been thinking about getting that tensioner kit though if i can afford it.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

~$80 shipped on hondaautomotiveparts.com

RIPSAW

Ezone is expert here. My last belt was my 1994. On it, my 3/4 impact would not break the bolt. Ended up using heavy duty impact socket, a extension out past fender resting on a jack stand. Coming down on the long breaker bar, it cracked so loud, I thought bolt had broken.
I did not take off oil pump but I believe it was just deeper in on the face directly behind belt I believe. Newer ones with chains have another chain going down and pump is lower with balance cam behind that I think.
You are taking a big job out of the box.
However, I did my first one on my 1985 including pulling head since the valves were bent when camshaft broke. And all went well. However, I had been thru quite a few V8s and straight 6s overhauls.

The fish as this site may help give you an idea on the layout. May search around this site. I think there was a manual floating around. It's not on my laptop that I have since I am out of the USA now.

https://www.collegehillshondaparts.c...-strainer-scat

ezone

Crank pulley bolt is 19mm. Use 1/2" drive heavy duty impact rated sockets, extensions, and a quality breaker bar. Cheater pipe (fencepost tubing?) you'll need it if this is the first timing belt job on the engine..
(If it's been apart before for a timing belt job, the crank pulley bolt may not be quite as tight as.....a virgin bolt LOL)

Crank pulley special tool....you should have that on-hand before you start this job, along with whatever it takes to use that tool (handle or a second high quality breaker bar)

Get a real service manual FIRST. (use the search bar here: 'looking for a 7th gen manual for free') Videos are nice to get an idea of what's involved, but the manual should cover necessary details if you can read it.
READ THE MANUAL

Top down. The job starts at removing the valve cover. RTFM


Did they all come in Honda packages with Honda part numbers?


How many miles on it? If you're leaking at the oil pump...I'll guess 150k or higher.
I would certainly replace the tensioner pulley and spring at this time. IMHO you can't afford not to.

If it breaks the spring (or eats through the hole in the arm for the spring) while driving it may cost you an engine, or at least a pile of bent valves and a boatload more work.




Now that imigur is working again, here's a couple pics from an oil pump reseal: