Phillip Plypots

I'm going to be taking the Transmission outta my 2005 Civic LX SPecial edition 5 spd manual to replace the Input shaft bearing. Even though the car only has 77K miles on it, I thought that while I got the trans out, I might as well replace the clutch using Exedy KHC08.

My Plan is to follow the DIY posted by forum member Scooty https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...t-bearing.html

and a couple youtube videos with my car here

and

Can anyone tell me or provide a link to the different kinds of lubes, gaskets, oils, and grease I might need to do this job? Also, is there a manual containing all the torque specs for the bolts Ill be removing?

Should this Torque wrench be good enough for torquing EVERY bolt on my Honda?

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Honestly, the only lube I've ever used on my car is 5w-20 oil, honda MT fluid, some random assembly lube I found at autozone, whatever grease I have on hand, and antiseize when I need to

As far as the torque wrench goes, it won't cover every bolt on your car. It will, however cover like 95% of them. If you ever need to adjust your valve lash, I'd invest in something that comes in in-lbs. Rule of thumb that's been bashed into my head is that your target torque should fall between 20-90% of your selected torque wrench's range. The only thing I've used my in-lbs torque wrench is for spark plugs and valve lash nuts

ezone

I hope that's a stock type clutch for a stock car.

Race clutches suck if you're trying to drive on the street.

Try a service manual.

No gaskets, the case sections use RTV during assembly.
You'll probably want to replace the 3 main seals while apart: Input shaft and 2 axle seals.

Honda manual trans fluid for the trans. It's only 2 quarts and it's absolutely correct for the car, buy it.

Nope. One unit cannot handle it all.
You would need a low range torque wrench to handle small fasteners.

BTW, a torque wrench is more accurate in the middle of its range, less accurate at the ends of its range.

You're buying a torque wrench because you (apparently) want to be very accurate with whatever work you do, but purchasing cheap to get one of unknown quality......could really F up your project if you put too much trust in an unknown tool.
Check accuracy before relying on the tool.
Check accuracy regularly while using the tool.

I've never heard of that brand (Mountain)....I looked at the bad reviews first. Not impressed LOL
(I figure a most people who write a good review are not professionals and may not know what good really is...."Yay, it didn't fall apart or break my car, yay!")



=======

My 1/2" goes from about 50-250 ft-lb,
my 3/8" from 15-100, (I need another with lower range though)
and my 1/4" handles inch-pounds up to about 150. (12.5 ft-lb)

These 3 are Snap-On, click type of one variety or another.
I rely on them for my critical work (engine work and whatnot) so I have to be able to trust them.....Every few months I take them out to the tool truck and check their accuracy.
About a month ago I sent in my 3/8" for recalibration because it was beyond 10% error.



Better yet....A good quality beam type (deflecting beam) torque wrench can be more accurate than the click type. Harder to use because you have to be able to see directly over the pointer and scale and go slow sometimes, but can be more accurate and definitely more reliable.
And CHEAP. Especially compared to a real good click type.
I have one of these that must be 50 years old, still works fine LOL...
I've even used it to verify a click type is accurate.

You cannot trust a click type after dropping it on the floor, but a beam type won't care....make sure the needle points at zero and it's good to go.

Sometimes a beam type is absolutely necessary, like for measuring rotational torque when checking and adjusting bearing preload.
(I doubt you'd need to do that on a Honda though)

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

Yeah, it is. Same one I'm running currently.

Phillip Plypots

I ordered the clutch kit and parts for the ISB. Like I said earlier, my car only has 77K miles on it.... Other than changing the Spark Plugs once, oil and oilfilter change every 3000 miles, cabin filter, and intake filter, would there be anything else I should check and/or change? Ezone suggested that I replace the 3 main seals while the transmission is apart: Input shaft and 2 axle seals.

Is there anything else that a beginner like myself should lookout for or be aware of while doing this job? Possible a system to keep all parts/bolts/washers together with each item coming off the car?

Thanks in advance.

Colin42

Take lots of pictures, group bolts according to where they came from, if the bolts are different sizes identify which one goes where. An assistant helps alot.

I just swapped my trans and clutch yesterday, are you going out the top or bottom?

ezone

Service. Manual.
I like to have an empty workbench, floor area, or tables (or even an entire service bay when doing some engines) big enough to lay out all removed parts in a line in the order I removed them, along with keeping fasteners grouped with each part removed. Remove a chunk of the car, put its bolts in their holes or in a shop towel, lay towel in removed part on the table. Scream at everyone walking too close to the table.


Sticking parts and fasteners on the cowl, wipers, fenders, and on top of the engine is just begging for trouble and lost pieces.

scooty

If you're going to be removing the transmission from the top like I did then you'll find my thread useful.

I recommend replacing the rear main seal as well while you have the transmission out, especially with your mileage.

A good torque wrench is absolutely necessary for the clutch to flywheel bolts.

The transmission is heavy and awkward but manageable. Getting it back into place was the hardest for me. I had a helper to help guide it in place.

Phillip Plypots

Sorry for the late reply, but I've been patiently waiting for the rest of the parts to come in.

I went with a Engine Support bar from harbor freight since I'm going out the top.
http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb...bar-96524.html

Scooty, What exactly is needed to replace the rear main seal? Is that a Honda specific part? Since I've NEVER had a tune up and been doing all my own service since 30K What else should be replaced, oiled, fixed while I'm fixing the Tranny?
I decided to not purchase the torque wrench posted on my original post. Having said that, I need to get one, but I can't afford anything more than the one posted, which was around $100. Can someone recommend a decent torque wrench at around the same price? Thanks.

ezone

I wonder why I bother to write anything sometimes. Seems like nobody ever reads it.

https://www.civicforums.com/forums/182-7th-generation-civic/367172-please-help-me-fix-my-car-trans-clutch.html#post4706063

bsmiley

Not true. I read it back when you originally posted it. The beam type was the only type when I was a kid...

ezone

My first beam type came from K-Mart, cost about $15 IIRC

bsmiley

My father's craftsman beam type is in my garage with his other tools... not used very often but still available if needed. I would guess it's an early 70's model... I tore down my 78 Accord cvcc engine and put it back together with that torque wrench. Piston rings, bearings and all.

ezone

Our shop hired a young kid a few years ago... Came with a beam torque wrench.

Could talk about torque, recite lug nut specs like he knew what he was doing, but the second that beam was in his hands it became a damn breaker bar.
Kid had no clue, and I think I was the only one paying attention.

When I saw what he was doing with it I lost my ****. I came unglued on him.

So then of the other guys let him use a click type on some lug nuts...... He dials it to the number he wants....sticks it on a nut......applies pressure....it goes CLICK....and he pushed it another quarter turn or more.....

I had just backed a car out and was driving past his doorway when I saw it, I skidded to a halt and.......

I lost my ****. I came unglued on him.



He quit the next day.

Looking back, I kinda wonder if this was during my 'quit smoking' year.

bsmiley

You scarred the boy for life... smh!
Many have the desire, some have been properly trained, few have the attention to detail.

You know, you replied about the torque wrench 2 weeks ago. OP forgot all about it. You only remember because you wrote it.
I remember reading it, but I'm a freak and I recall being glad I still have my Dad's old beam type.
And just to be add perspective, you repeat the same stuff about 7th gen HGs every single day on here with amazing patience.... so have you recently quit caffeine?

ezone

Gotttta havvvva dubbbble cuppppa javvvva errrry morrrn when I get to work, there's some ingredient in coffee that raises your tolerance for bullsh!t...

Then mostly water the rest of the day.







It wasn't always this way though..........

scooty

Not sure, I didn't replace mine. It looked fine and I didn't want to muck with it. It looked easy to replace with just some basic dental type picks.

Don't skip out on the torque wrench. Auto zone has them for free rental. Get rid of that $80 engine support bar if you need to, not sure if you'll have enough room to lift the tranny out with it in place.

ezone

Knowing how easy it is to damage a click type torque wrench, would you trust theirs?

Phillip Plypots

So, after re-reading ezone's post, I feel like a beam-type torque wrench would be the way to go, and from what I gathered, snap-on or craftsman would be a good choice. Considering the jobs that I'm doing, and all the bolts coming off in the process, would a beam-type be the best choice, since I'll need to be in a position to actually read the thing? Another question.... What range 50ft -200ft 20ft-100ft will I need for this job?

craftsman?

I know Im gonna need it for the flywheel bolts, for sure. But what about all those other bolts? Like I've probably said a few times already, I've only changed my front and rear brakes, oil, and replaced the metal brake lines in my father's Ford F-150. I've never used a torque wrench, and tighten everything tight to feel. I realize a deflecting beam style torque would be more accurate and even a little more durable, but since all those bolts are going to have to be put back on and tightened, maybe I should consider a click-type and just be very careful with it and and when done using it, make sure its back at 0, because a lot of those bolts are in really weird places where being able to look at at a deflecting beam style torque might be a little difficult.

Also, my neighbor is always working on his cars, but they always seem to make noises when he's driving them. Are there any other things I should be aware of while doing this job, so that when I put it all back together, it doesn't sound like my neighbors have been working on it?

Phillip Plypots

As soon as the weather clears up, possibly Monday, I would like to get started.

Colin42

I swapped my trans a couple weeks ago, I used a torque wrench on the flywheel, pressure plate, and axle nuts. I have a click type that will do up to up to 250 ft/lbs. The axle nuts are 134ft/lbs, and the flywheel and pp are a really low torque spec. Make sure you have 12 point sockets for the flywheel and pp.

Phillip Plypots

What should have thread lock added to the bolts when I put everything back together? I'm assuming the transmission case should have it, but what else? I'm replacing the input shaft bearing, clutch, and I'm going to flush the coolant and change the oil. This job will require a lot of bolts coming off a different pieces, almost all these pieces vibrate when the car is running, so should I be using thread lock on any bolts?

ezone

Do you have a service manual that specifies threadlocker, and which type of threadlocker?

I would not use it unless specifically directed by the factory service manual.

Phillip Plypots

Speaking of service manuals, I went to Autozone and they only had the haynes manual for 2004-2005-honda-civic-value-package-repair-manual-garage-shop-service-guide-not-specific-to-cng-hybrid. I have a 2005 civic LX special edition. The guy at Autozone also said the one they had was 'basic' Could someone suggest a thorough service manual

Colin42

there's a sticky on this forum with a link to download the honda service manual as a pdf for free.

ezone

Link the threads if you can find them easily please


https://www.civicforums.com/forums/182-7th-generation-civic/235295-looking-7th-gen-manual-free-updated.html

Start looking on the last page(s) for newest links posted.

Colin42

my bad will do

Phillip Plypots

I Found a link for a 2001 LX Service Manual, Will this work for my 2005 Civic LX Special Edition? Also, I'm not sure if the manual is for Civics in the USA. Here is the link I found on the last page

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BzK...V6aWxTeFU/view

ezone

That looks like about the same thing I posted a couple days ago in the FREE MANUAL thread.
https://www.civicforums.com/forums/182-7th-generation-civic/235295-looking-7th-gen-manual-free-updated-13.html#post4707698

Europe
Australia
Saudi Arabia
Hong Kong

KQ, KK, KX, KP, KV, KH, KN, KU models
KE, KG, KB models
KY, KF, KW, KT models

D17A5, D17A4, D17A2, D16V2, D16W8, D16W7, D15Y4 engines
D17A3, D17A1, D17Z1, D15Y6, D15Y5, D15Y3, D15Y2, D14Z5 engines



The cars in other countries can be very different from what we have in North America.
You would need to be very careful about making SURE you are on the correct section for the engine/trans you have....even then (we over here) couldn't be sure there aren't other differences none of us know about.

Or keep looking for a more correct service manual

Phillip Plypots

I spent 10 min looking through it, and I might as well have been looking at hieroglyphics. I need something a little more my speed. What about this manual?:


Would it get me through this job, along with the videos and DIY from Scooty? I guess I need it so when I'm taking everything apart to get to the tranny out, I would like to be able to tell if the parts I'm taking out might need replacing, resurfacing, greased, repaired, ect ect... Not to mention all the correct torque specs for all the bolts coming off.