bsmiley

I'm preparing to change my timing belt...

My oil pan seeps a sheen of oil. No drips in my driveway.

I've reviewed the service manual and 13-8 shows the MT removal. Says to remove the engine stiffener.

My question is do I need to support anything or can I just remove the 4 bolts and take the stiffener off?
After I get the stiffener off, I can remove all the bolts and nuts holding the oil pan? Or is anything else in the way?

Anyone done this before? Just trying to get a good handle on this before I do it. Thanks in advance.

ezone

Just remove the "stiffener" (bottom bracket in the way of reaching the pan bolts)
no engine support needed if it's not holding anything up.

It acts like part of the bellhousing when attached, that's how it is a stiffener.

bsmiley

I emailed Majestic and I got this response:
The total of the parts you will need are $245.90. That includes the timing belt, tensioner, water pump, oil seals (part numbers 91213-P2F-A01, 91212-PLM-A01), power steering belt (56992-PLM-003) and the engine mount. It also includes shipping and handling.

But when I look up my car that's the camshaft seal. I need the crank seal. I'm having a hard time finding it... anybody know the size? (29x45x8)?

Also for the oil pan gasket it says: Apply liquid gasket, part No. 08C70-K0334M or
08C70-X0331S, on the oil pump and engine block
end cover mating areas.

Any info on the liquid gasket, I'd like to order online....

ezone

Front crank seal is the oil pump seal. Look up the oil pump and you should find it there.
EDIT: It's already in your list
Aluminum pan (EX, D17A2) or steel?
08717-0004, 08718-0001, 08718-0003, or 08718-0009
Google each part number to see which sealer name it is. I'm lazy right now LOL

ezone

91213-P2F-A01 cam seal
91212-PLM-A01 oil pump seal (front crank seal)

You're missing the alt/AC belt in your list?


EDIT: 'Hondabond HT' 08718-0001 looks like what we are currently using all the time in our shop.
Also, Permatex ultra gray is good sealer if you don't want to get Hondas Hondabond.

bsmiley

I have Hondabond (used when I replaced the valve cover gasket) and I have a new ALT/AC belt that I bought a while back, but I didn't change because it looked good. (it still looks good... but might as well change it)

The alternator has 180k miles on it. Is there an alternator rebuild kit I can get and take it to a shop and have it rebuilt?

I don't think I need the cam seal, would I have to take the camshaft out to replace that seal?

I'd like to replace the crank seal while I'm doing the timing belt, water pump, etc. When you say FRONT crank seal is the oil pump seal... is this the one I will be able to get at when I'm replacing the TB?

Its a steel oil pan. I looked up my vin (1HGES15511L001430) on Majestic. Says the gasket is 11251-P2A-014.


Honda parts are CONFUSING!

ezone

Look in the Honda parts catalog to see what's available.
Do you have a local starter/alternator rebuilder, and do they use high quality parts? (The only rebuilder left here in my burg uses the cheapest crap they can get, I'd have to send stuff an hour away to get a good job done.)

I personally don't rebuild them. (I might try if it were for my own car though)

It's more likely to leak first.
And how old is it already?...... will it make it another 100k without leaking?

Yes.

You'd have to pull the trans and flywheel to reach the rear crank seal.

bsmiley

I think we have a good shop in my area, checking is on my to do list...
Got a pic of this cam seal? Do i need to remove cam pulley?

ezone

Whaaaar shop manual? Yes you have to remove it.
Maybe.

ezone

Note in the pics this original seal is installed slightly deeper than flush-- by nearly 2mm

bsmiley

I'll take a good look, but I don't think it needs replacing right now. Looks like I should do it with the TB off.
If it starts leaking it could cause problems. Is it as easy as removing pulley bolt, pulley and replace seal? Tap in with a big socket as a drift?
Use crank pulley tool to bracke crank when I remove the cam pulley bolt?

ezone

After the timing belt is out of the way, yes.

Torquing the bolt for the cam gear is pretty critical too. Couple people posted recently about that bolt backing out and causing a really bad day.......they are now using loctite.

I don't, I don't want to stress the teeth of the belt or overextend the tensioner spring and run the risk of jumping time.

I would insert a big screwdriver or prybar upon one of those visible journal cap bolts, and let a gear spoke rest against it to torque the center bolt. (Paying close attention to where all 4 pistons are at all times before moving the cam)

bsmiley

Thanks, I would've wondered about how to secure it. I can carefully do that.

bsmiley

I ordered and received 91213-P2F-A01 from Majestic. Here are some pictures of the seal I removed and my new seal. I have not installed the new seal yet....






Old on the right, new on the left. The new one is thinner than the old one. So its going to be less than flush when installed. Is this a problem? Did I get the wrong part?

Colin42

Is it like 2mm thinner?

bsmiley

Nope, its not 2mm, its a lot less.