meicalnissyen

Hey

Went to start this AM, but no crank.
bat tery is fine, no changes made

except I was fiddling with the omega aftermarket FOB
the omega unit has been removed apparently, before I bought the car so dunno what the FOB is talking to if that is the issue. may be coincedence......
I looked for the valet button but its not visible,
discon the bat and drained sys

the green key light comes on for one sec, and goes out with key insertion, and blinks 4 times and goes out on key removal


can this be a clutch switch issue?? there are 2, how do I by pass them


THANKS

mikey1

yes thats possible,

what is the battery voltage?

do you hear any clicking while attempting to crank?

check for power at the starter?

oil level low?

engine seized?

meicalnissyen

And THANKS for responding!

mikey1

start with the easy things,

common sense would be to check the battery voltage first, it is possible for a battery to be able to power accessories but not have enough power to turn the starter/engine,

if the battery tests fine, my next step would be to disconnect it and clean the battery posts and connectors with baking soda and water,

after that i would test for power at the starter motor,

start simple with the easy things, never assume anything

there is no need to re-wire an entire house and then find out a light was just unplugged

ezone

Where have I heard this before?

mikey1

yup.....admitting guilt

siliconvalley

Ockhams's Razor

meicalnissyen

OK

simple things, I like that.



this is either a security system problem

or the clutch switches are bad



I would like to jump the clutch interlock to see if thats the problem before I lay on my back trying to trace out and remove the remnants of a security system that was not a problem yesterday.

again, I fiddled with the fob, which may, or may not be progged to the car, and directly after that the car behaves like the clutch is not being depressed.


SO.

1
Can anyone confirm that my description of the green key dash symbol activity is correct for normal operation?

2
can anyone weigh in on why there are 2 switches on the clutch, and which of the is the starter interlock.

3
on the off chance someone else has an omega alarm, using a FOB with 4415 on it, how many modules did it come with, and if more than 1, where are they likely to be hidden?

Thanks!!

@ezone;

ezone

On for 2 seconds after turning the ignition on, correct.
Flashes several times after turning the key off, correct.


If it were flashing rapidly while attempting to start it, that would signal it has been activated. This should be described in your owners manual if yuou still have it.
The starter would still operate even if the immobilizer were activated.
The upper switch is the starter interlock. You have to bury the pedal to the floor before it closes its contacts.

Speaking of that, make sure all your floormats are pulled out from under the pedals. I've seen more than one car towed in for something that simple.

The lower clutch switch is used by the computers for a neutral input and maybe for cruise shutoff if equipped.



-----

Put a test light or voltmeter on the small wire of the starter, see if there's power going to it when the key is twisted.

meicalnissyen

Yeah, this is next on the diferential, but not til I have daylight. I read one old post about a corodded wire to the starter causing similar symptoms unlikely that would hit hard and sudden, but, the maz 3 has a prob there that is not uncommon and hits then clears single signal wire to the starter on that one

I do a search tommorow for starter replacement should the interlock get ruled out



Very glad the OEM immobilizer is ruled out, there may still be some portion of the Omega alarm that is activating a starter lockout, but withouts its main module in the car..............


Thanks ezone

meicalnissyen

Huh, well whaddya know, popped the harness on the interlock, jumped it with a piece of safety wire, and va, bu effing roooom.

looks like I park the bicycle tommorow morning

I will of course,do a thourough visual on the starter, for signal wire issues , and get on ebay for a OEM fob to go with the door lock actuators from rock


glad I did'nt pedal all the way to the groc store for baking soda...........

ezone

Kills fuel (at about 2 seconds IIRC) if the immobi system isn't happy.

Is the little round rubber pad missing from the tab on the pedal where it makes contact with the plunger of the switch?
That's the usual problem on older cars, maybe it's starting to happen to 7th gens too.

meicalnissyen

I'll check, that makes more sense thAN sudden switch failure itself

mebbe I kicked it off while leaning over to get to the pass door lock

now I hear light grinding on the rear brakes pads had lottsa meat left, but I havent had the rear wheels off yet. time to check that and get ready to send Rock auto some more money
do those rear control arms crap out like the fronts?

meicalnissyen

Occams razor:

The principle states that

Among competing hypotheses that predict equally well, the one with the fewest assumptions should be selected. Other, more complicated solutions may ultimately prove to provide better predictions, but—in the absence of differences in predictive ability—the fewer assumptions that are made, the better.

baking soda on the terminals does not qualify as "predict equally well" given the symptoms stated

ezone

So....was it?


I don't think that's even possible due to location.

Note also there are probably 2 more of the same pads, so if one disintegrated you might consider replacing the whole set.

FYI other manufacturers have the same issue with the little rubber pads falling apart after several years.
Ford dealer wanted about $3 for one of theirs this morning.
I don't think Occams razor has any place in diagnosis.....It might be useful when one has no idea though.
The 'simplest answer is often correct' idea should not be necessary if one actually takes a little time to understand a system and can reason and test their way through to pinpoint the actual fault.

Rust from sitting? Got rained on? Humidity?

Wait, you posted in 7th generation (01-05), you should have rear drum brakes--- unless it's an Si.
Most of Hondas drum brakes last almost forever.


IMO no.

meicalnissyen

Correct again

the shoes are worn thin a s ****,but smooth and no breakthru to metal and really, they come that way, very little meat new. drums fine, no grooves, I put fresh shoes from advance on, for 16, not worth the ship time from rock. the struts are shot, but **** it they can ride that way as I do my 3 mile commute. I'm smelling a bit of interior pull to get to the top of the rear strut........

the rest of the maze of bushings appear intact. gotta read up on setting toe on this car.......



mebbe it was rust.............................................. .

have not searched the area for the tip, once runnig I had other crap to knock out, and I have no intention of rearming the switch, as long as it might be part of the omega disarming feature