Dangerousjordan

I bought a 2001 Civic EX 2 Dr maunual recently that wasn't running but it came with a diagnostic from Honda saying it needed a new PCM. I could barely get it to the dealership in limp mode but once I was there I had them install the new PCM from a civic with only 70k from an LKQ or something like it. The dealer programmed the PCM and I came and picked it up. It drive the first 1/4 mile good as new and then it died. I thought this was due to the corroded positive terminal that barely hugged the post. After putting on a new terminal it now starts, proceeds to rev up and down to 2k and flash every single light on the dash... Any thoughts here? All I can think of is that I accidentally cut 5-10 strands of the copper cord that goes into the terminal and now they don't reach the clamp. But I should hardly think that would bring this upon me considering there's got to be 100 others that did.

Thanks

Jordan

mikey1

the original PCM most likely fried for a reason, you need to find that reason and correct it, the same reason the first one fried probably caused the second PCM to get fried as well,

Dangerousjordan

Thanks Mikey but from what I understand unprovoked PCM failure is not uncommon. Also mine had 256k miles on it.

ezone

It's not an unprovoked failure at all IMO.

The PCMs are damn reliable until .... someone forgets to tighten the alternator bolts during a service.

You should look into that very closely.



Engine and trans ground cable problems might lead to similar damage too.

mikey1

well if thats what you understand, maybe replace the PCM again and see how that goes?

PCM dont normally burn out for no reason

Dangerousjordan

Yes, thank you for that mikey1.

Still trying to figure this out. Now there are less lights flashing. The key light no longer flashes. The only light that flashes now is the check engine light when the motor starts to rev up (immediately after starting, while in neutral, on it's own), it hits about 2k then the check engine light flashes very briefly, the PCM makes a "click" and the engine drops back to idle only to immediately repeat the process about 3-5x then idles normally. And the second this stops the tachometer goes to zero. It can be driven but the engine cuts out at 3k ish. Any ideas? Last time I hooked it up to an OBD2 reader it didn't give any codes.

mikey1

the engine should never reach 2k rpms on its own after startup, that seems very high to me

Dangerousjordan

Correct mikey1. I looked back into it. It's only revving to 1600 before dropping then revving again and each time it revs up about 50-100 RPM lower than the time before. While it's doing this the battery light is on. It's the moment I give it throttle that the tachometer quits and it idles normal. The CEL stays on and the battery light goes off. I haven't had a chance to check the alternator bolts. Are they hard to access?

ezone

IMO this is easy.

Dangerousjordan

Well mikey1 your snide *** was right. I got to checking the alternator and the top bolt was loose and the alternator was flopping around. Replaced the alternator and got a new PCM programmed and I'm back in business.

mikey1

yay me!

i rock!

Dangerousjordan

Lol, thanks man.