jms9987

I have a 2003 civic ex, 5 spd. When I first drive my car( usually) within the first 5 to ten minutes ill press on the gas pedal and nothing will happen. car stays on but it seems like the fuel is being shut off. I press the pedal to the floor and it bucks and starts moving again. I replaced, spark plugs, coil packs, o2 sensors, rebuilt the fuel injectors and replaced one with a new one, new starter, alternator, battery is good, cleaned the throttle body iavc, egr valve, replaced the thermostat, a couple sensors, rear cam plug ( i was leaking oil out of it). not leaking oil anywhere else. I dont think im forgetting anything. I have a fuel pump filter that I need to replace but im sick of wasting money. no check engine lights. I have a CAI, full exhaust headers back, no cat. does anyone have any idea what it could be??

another symptom not sure if its related or if its bad but when I start my car in the morning it will idle at about 1200 or 1400 rpm for about 10 minutes then come down to 800, is this normal? If anyone could help it I would greatly appreciate it, thanks

mikey1

yes that is normal,

mine will sometimes go as high as 1500rpms at first when it is freezing cold out, and it will gradually come down as it warms up

Poopies

iTrader: (4)

So it doesn't even rev up when you're in neutral? Or does it only do this when you're in gear?

jms9987

thanks for idle answer. I have never tried it in neutral. It happens when its in gear. any gear. say im in 3rd gear driving normal all of a sudden the car feels like the gas is cut off. im pushing the pedal down but nothing is happening, if i push the pedal the whole to the floor it will kick in and start moving again. it doesnt always happen and it usually only happens once during that drive. I also changed the eld in the fuse box a few months ago, cause I thought that was causing all my problems and cleaned the vtec solenoid . I just got inside from changing the fuel pump filter in the gas tank. where the sock is inside the container of the fuel pump was really dirty, bugs and dirt haha. cleaned it out with some carb cleaner and put the new filter on. just drove the car around the block but it didnt do it so im gonna wait til later when I go for a drive and see if it happens or tomorrow. someone said it could be the map sensor or throttle body sensor but wouldnt that be throwing a code?

Poopies

iTrader: (4)

If it was either of those things, a code should have been thrown. Here's a list: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/3...-ii-codes.html
How long have you had your car? Is it possible that the check engine light was disabled?

I'd get your OBD scanned just to be sure. If you're REALLY concerned about it, you could always order a Bluetooth OBDII scanner ($10 for a cheapie, over $100 for the premium stuff) and Torque Pro for Android ($5) or some other similar app for Apple so you can monitor your car's internals whenever you want instead of borrowing one from a shop.

jms9987

alright thats what I thought. the CEL does work. I have a straight pipe so the code for the secondary o2 pops on every once in a while and thats how I knew my fuel injector was bad it was throwing the misfire code on cylinder 2. i have had the car for almost 3 years now. it has 147000 on the body and 87000 on the engine. yeah I have the cheap usb scanner, it works though. I just took it for a test drive again and it hasnt felt so good since I bought it so idk maybe it was the fuel filter? Im gonna give it some time to see if it happens again. The only other thing I can think of is if its the timing belt and water pump. I never asked when it was replaced when I bought the car and I havent done it yet. Idk if that could cause the problems or not.

one more question, if it does have something to do with the tbs can just that be replaced without replacing the whole throttle body. I looked it up and says you can buy the tbs separate but so many people say you cant. has anyone done it?

thanks for the quick replies

Poopies

iTrader: (4)

DO IT! If it isn't causing problems now, it can cause one BIG problem down the line. Change out the tensioner too.

It's not "TBS," it's "TPS" (Throttle Position Sensor). I'd hold off on replacing it until you can test if it is actually bad:http://troubleshootmyvehicle.com/hon...test-the-TPS-1
If it is, you can buy one here or elsewhere:
https://www.google.com/search?q=2003...icial&tbm=shop
I haven't personally done it, but it has been done before:
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2193100

jms9987

hahaha I have no clue why I was calling it that but thanks. alright im def gonna get on the waterpump and timing belt than. thank you for all your help. will let you guys know if the problem is gone

jms9987

wow so I woke up today and took the car and now its acting crazy, shows cel codes
p0301
p0302
p0300
p0103
p0104
p0203
missfires on all cylinders, maf sensor,( dont even have a maf sensor so idk what thats about,Injector Circuit Malfunction Cylinder 3. I cant figure it out, the only thing I did yesterday was change the fuel pump filter, I give up and im taking it to the shop. im pissed

ezone

P0103
P0104
P0203
These codes are impossible on this car.
Your code reader is lying and cannot be trusted. Try another brand/type/ whatever of code reader.

If it is lying about those, how can you be sure it's telling the truth about the rest? You can't.

jms9987

damn thank you so much. I was confused about that. im throwing it out and buying a good one. took it to the shop today and its only reading misfire on cylinder 3. im pretty sure its the fuel injector since I rebuilt them and had to replace one. im just gonna order 3 more fuel injectors and replace them. rebuilding them was def a waste of time. thanks everyone I appreciate it.

jms9987

well got all the codes cleared and fixed, it was the fuel injectors. but im still at the same problem I was at before. drive my car and within the first few minutes it bogs down like its about to stall, push the gas pedal the whole to the floor and it kicks in then wont be a problem until the next time I try to drive it. I honestly have no idea what it could be, I really need someones help. no check engine lights or anything?? anyone have an idea?

ezone

How long does this bog condition last? 1 second? 15 seconds?


I'd probably drive around with a good scanner on it watching live engine data or have it set up to take a snapshot (movie) of the info over a period of time. See if I could discern what tests should be done next from that.

jms9987

it usually lasts like 10 seconds give or take a few than once I push the pedal down to the floor it goes away. Ive pretty much replaced everything related to fuel so idk but yeah I can try that, Ill post the results on here, thanks again

jms9987

alright so I tested it and the results were fine, its a crappy scanner so I dont trust it. i took the TB and the Iacv off and cleaned them again, went over everything and it all looks good. I bought a new pcv valve that im putting in tomorrow but I have a question about the egr valve. I have cleaned it a few times and replaced the gasket but tonight I was reading about it so I decided to go out and try something. I disconnected the electrical plug and started the car but I have no CEL. and it still runs the same, its 50 degrees here and the idle is still at like 1400 for 15 minutes. Isnt the cel supposed to come on if the egr is disconnected, can this mean that my egr isnt working?

ezone

Eventually the CEL will come on. EGR is a multiple trip code, so you would need to do more than one drive with it disconnected before the light comes on.

You probably have a "pending" code right now for the EGR.


EGR is disabled at idle, and it is disabled until the engine is warmed up. It is only opened (activated) at part throttle and warm engine conditions, and I believe the VSS must be active before EGR is enabled.

jms9987

I just drove it for an hour and still nothing, still runs the same, Im gonna drive a few days without it before I buy anything

ezone

If you have the EGR unplugged and the car still hesitates for 10 seconds then the EGR is not the cause of that complaint.

ezone

EGR codes might include

P0401
P0404
P0406
P1491
P1498





Did you ever get misfire codes to come back?
Did you get any freeze frame data to go with the misfire codes?

jms9987

nope no misfire codes anymore, that was the fuel injectors. no check engine light at all. yeah and it did hesitate again right before I drove it earlier with the egr disconnected, felt like the gas was shut off, slammed the pedal down and it kicked in. its weird though, if I let the car warm up for like five minutes it wont do it at all, thats why im thinking it has to do with something when the car first starts up. and its not everyday. I mean its not a terrible problem its just annoying and I dont want it leading to other problems

ezone

So it's apparently not the fault of the EGR.

Will your scanner give live engine data? (I forgot, didn't read the thread)
Watch the (guess) coolant temperature numbers to see if there is a huge erroneous change in that reading when it falls on its face.

If no, then check other data parameters for big false changes at the time of the bog.

jms9987

okay so I went out and ran the scanner at idle, it says my fuel trim( short) is 25 percent rich+, and the long term is 3.91 lean -. I have no clue if thats normal or not

ezone

STFT is +25%
LTFT is -4%

?

Is this on a cold engine, or what was coolant temp when you got that reading?
Does ST stabilize at a much lower number if you run it longer?

jms9987

yes thats the readings. the coolant temp was 154. im pretty sure its usually that high even when Ive been driving it

ezone

Ok, were these trim numbers obtained during a bog condition?

ezone

Just staring at the numbers, without knowing anything else about the car......

Would appear that ST is showing it to be lean, but LT hasn't caught up with the fuel correction or LT adaptation is not yet enabled. OR this was a temporary effect?

When one is truly rich or lean, I'd expect to see that LT number far beyond what yours is right now. If extremely rich or lean, both ST and LT are usually pegged at an extreme.


LT is still within 10% either way, so this might not be a big deal. If LT was more than 10% either direction, it might be worth a closer look.


Where do the numbers go at operating temp 180*F and above?

mmartinez2988

my 2003 Honda civic also will not start. I turn the key and nothing, not even sounds of trying. I put the car in neutral and get a running start and can kick it in first gear to start the car when driving it runs fine. Took it to autozone and had the battery tested. all good. no signs of alternator going out either. no check engine light either any ideas or suggestions?

kinakoes2

Guess, but bad starter solenoid or starter, if you turn it to ON and get all other electrical (dash lights, fan, mirrors, etc.)? Is the fuse for that circuit still good?

mmartinez2988

Having trouble locating starter relay under dash any help please !?!?!

ezone

My info shows "starter cut relay" to be directly above fuses 11 and 12 in this pic



HTH