got2run5

As you can tell from my previous threads, I just installed new struts/springs. Well, I hate Tires Plus but their lifetime alignment was an attractive offer so I bit. I get a call from them saying "We can't get your passenger front wheel aligned because --the bearing keeps popping in and out--. First-that bearing was replaced 6 months ago. Second WTF-I've never heard of a bearing popping in and out. I told them to get it to as near of spec as possible. I don't plan on having that fixed there if it is bad, but does it sound like these guys are being crackheads?

ezone

I'd give them the opportunity to demonstrate exactly what they are talking about first (prove it) because I KNOW what sort of communi-EFFIN-cation goes on around a shop (you ever play the game "telephone"?)....There really could be some issue a tech found but the phone jockey has no clue about what it is and can't accurately tell you what it is....

Then I'd probably tell them don't touch anything and to get it the F off of the rack. Take it to someone I trust (me).

A lifetime alignment might sound like a deal if you are a value shopper...The reality can be quite different. Care to guess how they make money off of free alignments?

got2run5

I had a friend drop off the car while I was at work so I couldn't exactly go in and ask them wtf they meant. I'll be picking it up in a bit and I will for sure quiz them on what's going on. I totally expected them to tell me "Oh, you could use an air filter and new tires, maybe a brake fluid flush" since the lifetime alignment is a gimmick. However, I didn't think I'd be told "We can't align your vehicle correctly because this part."

got2run5

I talked to the Tires Plus guy and apparently there was some play in it. I'll have to give it a few good yanks next time I have the car jacked up.

Drove for like 30 min on the new shocks/springs and it felt amazing. Steering was tighter and the car just seemed to eat the bumps. However, I have some spring popping noises when turning slowly that I'll also have to look into.

got2run5

Bringing this back because I had the chance to take everything back apart this last weekend and take a look at stuff. First-I suspected I had indexed the springs wrong and they were wrong. However, mine did not have any arrow on the hat that sits on top of the spring. I lined it up the best I could since the body where the struts bolt to is like this: --\____/-- and those "hats" (what's the proper term?) were like / \ so I flipped them around. I'm trying to describe that the body where the struts bolt to are angled and the hats are angled so I assume they should both be angled the same direction. I fixed that and now some of the popping is gone but some still occurs. After looking under the car and having someone turn the wheel, the coil doesn't really bind like it's not indexed correctly, but the hat on top of the spring turns in jerky motions like it's stuck then free, stuck then free. Each time it does this it makes a pop. It seems like there is too much resistance somewhere. The only parts of the assembly I replaced were the actual struts and springs-not the top mounts or anything. I was thinking maybe the problem is the bearing on top? Reading info on here I had thought there were supposed to be bearings with plastic ***** inside but it looks like I only have two greased rings of plastic.

lowlife9

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...SHOCK+ABSORBER

got2run5

I had already taken a look at that, but this is my first time doing stuff with my suspension and it's difficult to see what the bearing is supposed to be like.

lowlife9

they look like this. i have spares because these plastic ones are prone to breaking that's why they switched to metal bearings. you should always replace your bearings and top hats when replacing struts mainly because of things like you described also because there cheap to replace.

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like the bearing, it sits in the top mount:



Top mount is right item. If you flip it upside down the bearing falls out and that's the part that goes bad.


**lowlifes pics are better

got2run5

Cool thanks. Do they all come in metal now?

lowlife9

well because i have progress coilovers on my 2004 i am required to use 2001 plastic bearings for things to seat properly in my coil adapter. im not entirely sure if you can replace your's with 04 top hats and bearings.

got2run5

I read a few threads and it seems you can't. Oh well. More plastic ones it is.

got2run5

Mmmmk. Took everything apart for the 3rd time this weekend and replaced the upper mounts/strut bearings because I was 90% sure the problem was with the strut bearings. Take it for a drive... more popping/soft thudding while turning at low speeds. I've also noticed another symptom-after turning sharply to the right and then straightening the car pulls a little to the right until I turn the wheel to the left and then there is a "pop" and the steering evens out again. The same thing happens the opposite direction. Really getting fed up with this... any ideas?

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

I'm having the exact same issue. I've got popping and a KLUNK noise when turning... So far I've replaced:

Outer tie rods
Lower ball joints
Struts + upper mounts (properly indexed)
Wheel bearings
Sway bar bushings
Sway bar endlinks
Calipers
Rotors
Pads
Brake lines
Knuckles

This is just a list of some of the work I've done recently. The only original parts left in the wheel well are the inner tie rods and axles. Yet, the popping/klunking persists. I think we are having the same issue got2run and it isn't upper mounts... At least I don't think it is. I cheaped out though and got Monroe quick struts to avoid trying to index my struts for the fourth time.

*Edit - If your alignment is changing when you turn that's definitely an upper mount issue. It's possible the center nut is not tight enough on your upper mounts which means the strut is spinning freely on the bearing changing your alignment. I had that happen one of the times I tried to fix my problem. If you get a friend to turn the wheel while you grab a flashlight and watch the upper strut mount from the wheel well you can clearly see what I'm talking about.. The strut changes its alignment on the bearing every time the wheel is turned one direction, then it resets when the wheel is turned the opposite direction.

ezone

How about upper spring plate rubbing or contacting the strut tower (body)? Could cause the spring to "wind up" when turned, then when you steer straight again the spring tries to unwind and push the steering to one side or the other until it POPs loose again...You should be able to see the spring and upper plate "jump" if it actually is happening... I used to see this often on another brand/model of car, have not seen it on Hondas at all though.... And on the Monroes, have you double checked the center nut it actually tight?

got2run5

I checked the spring while someone turned the wheel, but the spring wasn't twisting up, binding, or letting loose and popping. The nut you're talking about---you mean the one on top of the strut right? The single nut on top of it that holds the mount on to the strut?

ezone

Yes. I saw one (Odyssey?) the other day with quick struts in it and on one side that nut was not tight enough and letting the strut pop.

got2run5

Tightened the nut as much as I could, took it for a drive and it seemed more pronounced but it could be because I turned the radio off.

The other thing you mentioned-I can see the hat on top of the spring turn, and it turns in a jerky motion-like an inch at a time even if the steering is continuous. Not sure if that means it's rubbing or what.

If you lay your hand on the spring while the wheel is turning you can feel it kind of shudder when this stuff happens but it's not really jumping around it seems.

Also you can feel the pop in the brake pedal.

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

You can't tighten the nut with the strut on...

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

That's a filthy lie that is... I found the procedure

With wheels on ground, loosen the strut rod (center) nut by 3-4 full turns.
Then use a 10mm hex socket to rotate the rod by around quarter turn until it locks into place (!). Then tighten the rod nut again to OEM specs (36ft-lbs). Drive the car to confirm issue is gone (or not).

got2run5

Lol. Huh.... I put the allen wrench in the top and then tightened the nut. I guess I'll try that procedure tomorrow after work. Did it work for your problem?

rusty1161

Can it be the lower control arm bushings?

Rusty

BlueEM2

iTrader: (1)

Yes of course it could be LCA bushings.. however with mine it's not I have replaced all both bushings on both control arms, and I have replaced the ball joint I haven't tried it yet got2run. I have a feeling that won't solve my issue though. I'm so sick of this car I'm contemplating going out and buying a chevy cruze eco right now.

got2run5

Yeah I'm frustrated too. However, you have a car that works (besides for this one issue) that gets great mpg (same as the cruze), imo looks better, and has no car payments. You know you've taken care of it well so it will run for a long time to come. Have you tried just taking it to a trusted shop? Might be worth paying for an hour of work if they can nail down a diagnosis. The Cruze has been out for a few years now and I feel that there will be a lot better options coming out within 5 years that would be worth waiting for if you really really want a new car.

I can't post a pic now since I'm at work, but I want to make sure I put the bearing in the right way.

The bearing has two sides - one of them is skinnier/thinner and one is flat and wider. I called the dealer and they said the winder part gos down on top of the spring hat but in the diagram from majestic honda it appears the skinnier part sits in the hat and the winder part faces up and sits on the mount. I installed the second way. Is this correct?

I'm also missing the rubber dust shields from the diagram but I don't think that this would really impact anything.

Edit: Looks like the same issue but no solution...
http://www.justanswer.com/nissan/1vl...-front-st.html

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

Sounds like it might be upside down. Using lowlifes pics the black part should be towards the spring and the white part should be touching the top mount.

If its metal then the rubber side should be facing the springs and metal side touching the top mount.

got2run5

Blarghh... can't view the pics at work :/ However, do you mean the white part should touch the mount? And rubber!? I have nothing up there with rubber-both sides of the bearing are plastic.

Edit: The equivalent to Lowlife's white side of the bearing is sitting on the mount, pointing up. The black side is sitting in the hat on top of the spring.

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

The white part should touch the mount (the thing with 3 posts for bolts).

I couldn't remember if you had plastic or metal bearings. The metal bearings have rubber on one side. The plastic ones have plastic on both sides.

Edit: that's sounds correct then. Did you grease between the contact points?

got2run5

No I didn't grease the contact points because the point of a bearing is to provide the slippage/turning motion. I don't think the top hat is supposed to slip on the bearing at all - same for the mount. The bearing is what is supposed to spin.

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

Between the bearing and the top mount on mine there was some type of oil/grease. Not sure what it was for since like you said the spring should rotate on the bearing which has internal grease.

Did you put lowering springs on the car?
Springs are indexed properly?

Also you can run metal bearings and top hats on a car with plastic ones. I have 02 top hats and bearings on my 01.

got2run5

I put on an eibach pro kit - so yes, approx 1" lower.

I think the springs are indexed correctly-according to the DIY there is an arrow on the spring hat that is supposed to line up with stuff but on mine there was no arrow. Maybe they started the arrow with 2002 model year and up. I put the higher side of it on the higher side of the strut tower but there are no marks to make it super precise.

I'd rather not buy top hats as well without confirming that there is an issue with the current ones.