palsana

UPDATE
I noticed that fuel to the throttle body was not exactly smoothly coming thru so i had a mechanic fix it. Now the car will not die/stall but when put into gear the car will die.
The previous ATF fluid was very very dark when drained and mechanic claimed it could be burning smell in there.
I have now changed the fluid and waiting to see if my car will operate. I am assuming the worse possibly used tranny again.

someoone help me out here. what to do next?





i followed instructions of installing a brand new fuel filter/strainer into my 2003 honda civic ex 4DR which was located right in the middle of the backseat.

After having done all necessary things according to protocol, i am trying to start/run the car just so that it can be started and i am having serious starting problems with it.
It so happens that if i put my foot on brakes start ignition it works a few seconds(less than 10 secs) longer and DIES on me. It shows that the car when keys r in ignition and trying to start will start but will die soon too.

I have tried starting it for so often its not funny anymore. I am just sick and tired of put my key into ignition and turning it on to start but no success. The car will die /shut off in a matter of seconds!!!!!!

Also a transmission fluid change was done at the very same time and all prior ATF was drained out and new Valvoline MaxDerc ATF with a high mileage additive was filled in and then the car was attempted to start. The car does start, however, it lasts only so very few seconds before it dies. Having tried it several times it will surely start but will die very quickly.

On the bolt for opening/closing the ATF fluid there was just so much sludge/thickened oil that you can put your finger around the bolt and it would be seriously thick oil that was on it. This may be as a result of me never in the life of my 03 civic ex ever ever having changed/flushed ATF.It has 176k mi now and 2 rebuilts on tranny so far.

How do i get to start my car and last long enough to take it out for a ride and warm it up enough to drain the ATF and put new ATF in there.
For some reason, it seems as though the car wants to start but not last at all to keep the car running . A fuel filter and strainer was changed on this car. There obviously is a loss of a lot of fuel. what do i do to make the start of my car after starting last much much longer.

any suggestions?

lazlong

Pull the fuel pump assembly again and look for bad/loose connections. I'd also check the fuel pump to see if it's operating properly.

Artificial

iTrader: (1)

WhyDon'tYouTryToExplainTheWholeProblemInTheTitle

palsana

All the connections to the fuel pump were thoroughly checked. It was opened up one more time to check and connections were loosened and put on back.

well i figure it may very well be the TPS. (throttle Position Sensor). Needs cleaning or replacement. waiting on parts. dont have OEM anywhere. If you know of let me know
When you put gas inside of throttle body and start the car the car starts but doesnt move. Hopefully its the TPS.

lazlong

OEM TPS comes riveted to the throttlebody. Gonna have to get aftermarket TPS and install with a bolt after drilling out the rivet on the OEM TPS.

lowlife9

that's not sludge in your ATF its metal that collects around the magnet.when you remove the magnet clean it off then put it back in move it around the edges then repeat till its all gone.

palsana

i was only talking about the thickness of the oil that looked like an oil sludge on the drain bolt of my tranny. It was seriously thick in viscosity im trying to come up with a word but a "thick paste". after it was all drained and refill with valvoline atf including a high mileage additive for auto tranny.
The drained fluid was very dark and mechanic said it had a burn smell to it

this is whats at advanced auto

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...P|GRP2030P____

ezone

FYI: Those aren't rivets, they are "breakaway bolts". They will unscrew.

palsana

Are you sure Ezone. Did you see my link i sent showing the throttle position sensor. Would you by any chance know the part number to TPS where i can find it. all HondaAutomotiveParts do not sell TPS seperately.

I am having serious trouble getting the car to crank and hold on to the crank, however, when i put my foot on gas pedal the car slowly wants to die and makes heavy cranking noise. The fuel pipe has enough fuel in it to make it crank, but it just doesnt last long.

palsana

I will take a picture after i open it and post it asap.

ezone

Did the car run before you dicked with the fuel pump?
Fix what you dicked with.
Chances are you caused this new problem.



Google Honda TPS.
Plenty of places will sell them, but Honda wants you to buy the throttle body.
Be aware that if you DO manage to buy one and replace yours, it must be adjusted properly in order for it to work properly.

palsana

I was set on doing two things
1) Drain ATF fluid
2) Replace Fuel filter/Strainer (never ever before changed in 10 yrs)

Prior to all this the car was running smoothly,however, when i put foot on gas pedal in D it will only rev up but not exactly run smoothly. But you could drive it. (it will try to fall into gear, once in a while) . Also smoothly go into reverse and park your car. No problem there. everytime try to accelerate and it will rev up but struggle to move forward.
called in a neighborhood mobile mechanic and had these two things done. ever since, I am trying to figure what could have been wrong. It run smoothly before.

Wat abt the TPS sensor link i sent you!!!!!!..here it is again. will that work.

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...P|GRP2030P____

ezone

Still sounds like someone screwed up. Revisit the work that was JUST DONE.



[/quote]Wat abt the TPS sensor link i sent you!!!!!!..here it is again. will that work. [/quote]
Didn't see that before.

If the one they send you is actually for your car, I don't see why it wouldn't work if it gets installed and adjusted properly.

Except for this fine print in the ad: Replacement part. Not for sale or use on pollution-controlled motor vehicles.
That probably gets them off the hook if the car doesn't pass a smog test.

palsana

revisit? awwwwwwwwww....thats over and out!!!!

Now its my problem. Paid and over with. my loss;.

anibis

Your transmission is screwed. Now you have created a new problem by you/your craigslist mechanic messing with stuff that was perfectly fine because you wouldn't accept the transmission is bad.

I'm sure when you figure out what went wrong and the car runs again you will still have the same issue with the transmission.

If you get an aftermarket TPS you will still have to take it to the dealer to have it calibrated. This is why people buy the TB/TPS as one piece, usually off ebay or a junk yard.

palsana

If you get an aftermarket TPS you will still have to take it to the dealer to have it calibrated. This is why people buy the TB/TPS as one piece, usually off ebay or a junk yard.


Is that what anibis you are suggesting i do. buy it from ebay motors?

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

i dont think the TB will fix anything, because there is no engine light on for that code. sounds like a fuel delivery problem to me. and the "additive" you put in the trans fluid has me worried also, esp in an older trans that is very picky about what you use. clutch friction material is normal on the magnet plug and happens from normal wear and tear, but black fluid could indicate the trans was already cooked inside. new fluid and improper additives prolly made it worse. still, the engine should at least idle in park.

anibis

When did the car stop being able to start and idle? When you cleaned the fuel strainer or when the mechanic "fixed" the fuel problem?

palsana

fuel delivery via pipeline is happening Ok. its when you crank it, the tps or ecu is getting the wrong message.The TB with the TPS sensor, will allow it to hold the crank longer. (MAX CRANK STAYS 3-4MINS). Whats happening now is its cranking, its also got a little staying power after cranking, however, when shifting gears, it doesn't take it. The car dont wanna move but in park i am now able to crank and keep the crank running a little while. only if i decide to lay foot on gas pedal and shift into reverse or D that it will shake/vibrate/rattle and DIE.

palsana

Exactly right anibis. even if i a honda dealer mechanic were to do it, he couldn't possibly do a better job of fuel filter/strainer. However, once it was all done, the anticipation was that the car's idle problems would go away, it will take a little while before the fule pump is all fueled up and ready to crank. Instead, whats happening is the fuel pipeline is fueled and ready but there is something else that is causing the crank not last long enough!!!!!
How i know fuel is in pipeline? i took off the fuel hose and ran the car and also from inside the hood the gas was sprinkled when revved up only to die after a few seconds. that is what was not suppose to happen upon fuel filter/strainer replacement.

ezone

1) Thanks for saying that, so I don't have to.

2) He doesn't need a dealer to set (calibrate?) the TPS, but he will need someone smart enough to do it without a scanner. I know I can. But it doesn't even need a TPS, does it?

palsana

i think ezone, i am gonna find a way thru craigslist to not ever have to buy a TB/TPS from anywhere and still have the car running normally?
Now how is that possible??..hmmmm!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
wait & watch?
thanks for all that you do here, including sarcasm!!!!!!.

ezone

Here's another thought on the TPS (if you do it)A dealer tech that has never seen any other cars but Hondas won't have a freeking clue what to do or how to do it.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Sarcasm, or not.....?
You have spent a ton of time and money on trying to fix stuff that isn't even remotely related to the real problems you have described on 50 different threads.

Your car needs serious help.
You need to spend some serious cash on it.
Or dump it and get a different ride altogether.
The cash required to fix your car the right way far exceeds the value of the car.
Example: Your car might be worth $500 with all the problems it already has.
It needs about $4000 spent on it.
Car will only be worth $1500 after spending all that money on it.
Ain't worth it.
Unless you can do all the labor yourself, and you can't.
(Note: All numbers above were pulled out of my azz.)

04 Honda Civic

iTrader: (2)

And your best bet is to use OEM fluid on the tranny. For the future..

palsana

OEM fluid? i thought Valvoline MaxDerc ATF is absolute best!!!! maybe using a cheap ADDITIVE GOT it all not so right.

palsana

Ezone? are you MARRIED? what if wife loves that car too damn much???
lol.

is anything worth the "S***"
She takes BEYOND GOOD CARE OF IT NON-MECHANICALLY....LOL

only when i would personally have HER PERMISSION IN WRITING AND NOTARIZED that i will be able to just JUNK IT.

Its all i have ever done to all previous honda car ownerships...lol. junked them. FYI; i was living alone then....its different now.

Maybe you understand the DILEMMA I am in or???????????

Ya ya ya...i also maybe TOO CHICKEN....lol...to u know wht?????

so ezone in conclusion what is better?

a) GOING AGAINST THE WILL OF HMMMMM....

B) spending $4k if necessary...only if it was so readily available?..

c) buying a whole damn new HONDA CIVIC EX 4dr sedan black and just????????

have you ever thought why & how come i have so much time on my hand to respond and ask to so very many threads on civic forum without any mechanical mindset of a repairmen/mechanic?.

something to take each of my lines here in 'QUOTE FORM" and respond back.. should be an interesting read.

ezone

only when i would personally have HER PERMISSION IN WRITING AND NOTARIZED that i will be able to just JUNK IT.

Ya ya ya...i also maybe TOO CHICKEN....lol...to u know wht?????


It's time to grow a hair on your ********.

palsana

hahahahahahahaaaaaa/

lazlong

Tranny rebuild will run $3000-4000. Reliable shop will offer at least a 1 year warranty.

btw: If the ATF is already black and burnt smelling it shouldn't be changed. Especially with non-OEM fluid. Just make sure to have the ATF changed yearly in the future.

palsana

In houston, it runs $1200-$1500 with 1 yr 15k mi warranty. done it twice!!!!! one at prop shop and one non-pro shop.