CivicN3wb

I was trying to take off one of my tires just a few minutes ago and one of the lug nuts was extremely hard to turn. I have no idea why, because I've taken that wheel off several times with no issues whatsoever. I kept turning it, despite the fact that I had to put all of my weight on the breaker bar to get it to turn, and the lug nut broke off with part of the stud inside it.





How bad is this? I have no idea what I should do

MindBomber

Take it to a shop and have them replace the stud.

CivicN3wb

Hi MindBomber,

Is this beyond the DIY capability of a n00b like myself? I tried calling a few shops a little bit ago, but they are all closed. They probably won't be open until next Tuesday, and I really need to drive before then.

Any suggestions?

MindBomber

Being reasonable, yes, it's best that someone inexperience have someone else handle this task. Replacing it will require a hydraulic press if it's on a front wheel, an impact wrench if it's on the rear wheel. Driving with three lug nuts is fine, just don't take corners hard.

If you're on a tight budget, you could remove the knuckle yourself and just have the shop handle replacing the stud, but that's a pretty high difficulty level.

Muirsy

next time when putting your wheels back on use a torque wrench.. the reason why the stud broke was because you over tightened the lug nut

CivicN3wb

A hydraulic press? I was thinking I could just take the caliper and rotor off, then smack the stud out. Is there more to it than that? I tried searching for a DIY on this but wasn't able to find anything..

I have been using a torque wrench, actually. I've been torquing the lug nuts to 80 ft-lbs

MindBomber

Yes, there is more to it than that. It's impossible to just smack the stud out, because there's metal behind it and you would only be able to move it four-five millimeters. The hub needs to be separated from the knuckle to allow the stud to be removed and replaced, which usually involves replacing the wheel bearing as well. There's no DIY, because it's not DIYable for someone without a press and very few amateurs would have one. You can look at BlueEM2s ball joint DIY to see what's involved with removing the knuckle.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

if ye look for mb threads paired with studs search ye shall find it

CivicN3wb

Wait, what?

MindBomber

When I broke a wheel stud, I made a thread and Sdaidoji posted the service manual instructions on separating the hub with a press. If you go to my profile you should be able to find the thread.

bryan.0831

I rented that axle puller tool and the slide hammer. It takes quite an arm muscle to do.
Anyone familiar to that?
I replaced all my studs by myself with ARP Wheels Studs.
You guys think I messed up my axle or something? Its been almost two years since I replaced it.

MindBomber

No, but you shouldn't need to pull the axle to replace wheel studs.

bryan.0831

Well that was only the name of the tool. I just pulled the hub out, never the axle. And pop the broken or old wheel stud out and press the new ones in.

Sorry. I misinterpreted. I meant to ask about messing up my hubs and bearings, not the axle.

CivicN3wb

So, how did you get the bearing out of the hub?

MindBomber

Ah, okay. Most people replace the bearings when they press out the hub, because the process often to damage them and they're a wear part anyway. It doesn't necessarily damage them though, yours could be fine.

CivicN3wb

What do you guys make of this?

EDIT: OK, the stupid forum software will not let me post a youtube link with a time at the end, so paste the following in your address bar: youtube.com/watch?v=FEDrioMDe1k&t=1m30s

MindBomber

It's worth a shot if you want to try it.

CivicN3wb

Hey MindBomber,

I've been following BlueEM2's ball joint DIY but have gotten stuck, unfortunately. I cannot get the lower ball joint to separate from the lower control arm. Nothing I have tried has worked. I've tried putting a ratchet handle in there, and then I tried a breaker bar handle (which is very thick.. nothing any thicker will fit in there, even with the lower control arm jacked up all the way). I've tried lowering the jack at full speed, and stepping on the rotor after it came down. The ball joint will not break free.

I noticed in BlueEM2's thread that you actually ran into this same problem. Can I ask how you managed to break yours free?

Thanks for your help

anibis

I've always used that method on 6th and 7th gens with my Craftsman breaker bar. It usually takes a few times but it always worked for me.

Just jack up the LCA so the breaker bar handle fits snug, and lower it at full speed, if it doesn't work try again.

MindBomber

Okay, well, if you try this do so at your own risk and be careful.

I placed a jack stand directly under the ball joint stud then very slowly lowered the car, once the suspension is fully compressed it will be forced to separate because the weight of the car will be against it.

I spent hours and hours trying to remove it using the trick BlueEM2 and Anibis used, among other things, before resorting to that.

CivicN3wb

Would that be the same as placing the jack under the ball joint stud and jacking up, do you think? Did it ruin your stud?

MindBomber

No, that wouldn't be as stable as carefully lowering from a structural point. It will probably pop out suddenly, so going that route you would lose stability when it comes free.

CivicN3wb

Well, after spending literally six hours trying to separate the ball joint from the lower control arm, I was forced to give up as I was running out of daylight.

I tried the method you used, MindBomber, but even with the full weight of the car (well, maybe not the full weight, since the left tire was on the ground) that damn ball joint would not come out. I also tried putting the jack under the stud and jacking it up, but to no avail. I tried BlueEM2's method a few more times, using a crowbar with an extension on it to pry the joint off, as well as using the crowbar after dropping the joint down on it. I tried various other things, such as jumping on the rotor after dropping the control arm down with something under the ball joint, among other things, and the joint didn't even budge.

THIS IS THE BALL JOINT FROM HELL!

Lol :P I guess I'm going to have to take it to a mechanic, although I can't image how they will separate the ball joint from the lower control arm. I just hope it's not hundreds of dollars

Thanks for all of your help with this, MindBomber.

MindBomber

Mine was an absolute nightmare, worse than anything else I've encountered on the entire car.

The next step would be to try and find this tool.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-qua...tor-99849.html

it's a ripoff of an OEM Honda tool.
http://www.kseriesparts.com/cr/HON-07MAC-SL00202.html

or take it to a mechanic, of course.

CivicN3wb

Hmm, do you think that would really work?

MindBomber

There's a good chance it will. I've heard of people who could not successfully break the ball joint free with the technique demonstrated by BlueEm2 but had success with the "proper" tool. I fought with mine for a full day before attempting the somewhat fool hardy technique I used, because I couldn't find that tool. If that tool doesn't work, I don't know what will short of a sledge hammer lol.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

the tool works, but might require moving the suspension up and down again. use a jack, it will pop out loudly

bryan.0831

I used this. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...lange/_/N-264h with this http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...uestid=1439218

They attached to each other and the first one bolts into the studs.. and then you hammer away. It works and its free. Don't make fun of me. Lol

CivicN3wb

Are you saying to jack up the lower control arm, use the tool, and if that doesn't work drop the jack?

What did you use that for, exactly?

bryan.0831

To remove the hub and replace the broken studs.