Balzdpr

Is there a significant differance which is noticable between a 16mm sway bar and a 22mm sway bar? Eibach has a 16mm and Neuspeed has 22mm is there even a big differance? One is clearly more expensive than the other but the price does reflect the overall diameter of the material. Which is the best for a young project HONDAneer? This questions reflects the truthiness of the proformance gain and the overall best investment .

SlimRisk

I would say + 6 mm would make a big difference. I read on the front progress sway bar diy that a 25.4 mm to 27 mm was a noticeable difference

maxtierney

iTrader: (5)

6mm or a 1/4" may not sound like a lot, but you'd be suprised. You ever watch Mythbusters? Where they try to fold a piece of 8 1/2" x 11" paper more than 7 times. The amount of force needed to get that 8th fold was crazy. And that was just a piece of paper.

Translate that into steel. Simply stated, the 22mm sway should provide 100 percent+ greater stiffness than the 16mm bar. I know the Hotchkis 27mm provided 200 to 220 percent greater stifness than stock (16mm). That's only a 11mm total difference. Don't be fooled by the relatively small numbers.

SlimRisk

That was a good episode. And the +6 mm difference is only in diameter. Imagine what that adds to the circumference of the bar

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

i have mine eibach out of the car (guess why?) and running mine progress rear and stock front.
even with the front eibach out, rear eibach, it was... sad.

Balzdpr

U speaka any Lenglish, ey? Im confused by your comment. But what I believe you are saying is progress in rear stock in front but why when the 26mm front replacement is unarguably more reliable and effective. I think ill run progress in rear and eibach in front. If anyone else has any further comments please feel free to post----- I want to be the hostess with the most postess lol.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

bwaaahahaha!
sorry, was typing too fast and on the phone
I had the eibachs, but they simply made the car understeer too much.
put the front stock back in, but the rear eibach did... Nothing worth commenting, still better than stock, but not worth it.
I would say keep front stock. Any rear less than RSX (19mm) would not be worth the time to install.

jono237

i have a eibach front installed on the front and ive auto-x it with nothing but possitive results no under or oversteer and my body lean was reduced a lot. my rear bar however is still stock and i have no intention on changing it at this point i love how it handles next ill be lowering 1 inch on eibach springs and go from there. my wheels are also not stock i am running 16x7 buddy clubs with decently sticky tires and again im sure that contributes to my back end not sliding out. after the research ive done i went with eibach because for me it was the middle of the road not to big not to small. for me it was just right. hope that helped.

Artificial

iTrader: (1)

27.28% larger in diameter.

Balzdpr

Great info here from you all. These are the kinds of responses I never get when I post in the suspension forum subsections. So no haters Please. But good info anyhow.
Ive decided that Im going with Eibach front and Progress rear. I have no unique upgrade struts at this time. Im still a little tight in the wallet and cannot see lowing the car to much as our roads really suck here. So im running stock height with stock wheels but race rated tires. Im sure once the distance fom the body and the road is lessoned there will be a significant differance in performance. But that will come most certainly last.
Im keeping in mind the advise of readings and conversations, that trying **** makes the true differance, every time I add something I pound the **** out of this car to see if I even notice any differances. So far not much but it is still very early as I have only a strut bar in the front which has been added and there is alot of alterations to still do.
I have always been a firm believer that the stock wheel size should never be altered unless you are going for a more agressive look or appearance. Anyone agree?

SlimRisk

Ahhh thank you Artificial. I didn't feel like any math that day lol

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

?
do you have camber kits?
I ran the eibach prokit and teh sway bars, so that ended me up with 0 deg camber fronts and -1.6 deg rear - that killed my traction up front, so wheel spin all over. Ended up with a rebuilt trans because of the excess strain.
things got better after ditching front eibach, but not enough. so went with progress rear and rear camber arms to run -0.5 deg rear.
finally found place to adjust the front camber bolts, and running -1.5 fronts and -0.5 rears, stock front sway and progress rears. now it turns, without the need of dropping front tire pressures or turning down the front strut all teh way to the lowest setting.

in other words, are you on a 6th gen - double wishbone, with neg camber gains, or a 7th gen - strut, no neg camber gains in front, huge camber gains in the rear? they are very different animals suspension wise

jono237

at this point i dont have camber kits installed because the springs are not installed yet only the front sway bar and strut bar so theres no need for that yet. this is on a 7th gen tho i have the sedan but now your worry me with all this tranny talk. so the bar put strain on after lowering bc i am running the bar now no problems but im on stock springs and honda spec camber.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

me kinda thereadjacking , but anyways:
running too strong front sway - bad for understeer.
I ruined the trans in autoX also because of driving style - after tweaking so much to get front traction, frustrated i would go out on last session simply... not caring anymore for times, so just wanted to have fun. put the vic in sliding mode, instead of grip.
guess what? 2 sec faster in 70 sec course.
so, after that happening to me twice, well, i simply used threshold braking in entering, late apex mode.
during cornering, throttle all the way down and hold the car with left foot braking, trying to get some resemblance of load in fronts, but fronts simply going piggy (squeeee, squeee, squee!).
start unwinding steering while releasing brakes, but throttle still all the way down (no dropping revs).
6 PSI lower fronts, shocks all the way soft fronts, and rear all the way up stiff, but wheels still spinning to try to have them pull the fronts in the direction.

that is the strain i put on trans. if you don't do it, you should be fine. But again, my SCCA region have 4 or 5 national champions, so we run hard, even if i am mid-pack :P

No more. now right suspension camber setup, shocks are 3 fronts, 4 rears, still uses left foot braking but much less pressure and short pushs to straighten the car. Tires can run 4 PSI difference.
no more killing trans, car turns

The rules for stock class, that you can only change front sways? old rule... they were designed from when most were RWD or have very small sways. they planning on lifting this rule. (Yay! for the FWD cars!)

Balzdpr

We should all just opt for one one of those "Dr. Brown's 2015 Hover Conversion Kits" and solve all our issues. LOL