stevencg

If i am going to get 17 wheels with 215/45/17 tires and the Eibach prokit springs do i need D-Specs?
I am looking for a drop around 1 - 1.5 inchs.

MindBomber

D-specs will work, as will Hps, Konis, KYB AGX..

stevencg

i have 91k on my car, should i replace them or is it to early?

MindBomber

Never lower a car on stock struts, regardless of mileage, those are at the end of their life anyway though.

sl33pyriceboi

iTrader: (3)

bomber is correct. you will waste money/time REINSTALLING new struts when ur stock ones blow from the higher stress from the lowering springs.

stevencg

my 04 civic has never been modified.
i want to lower the car by 1.4"
So i am going to buy

1. 17" rims with 215/45/17 tires
2. HONDA CIVIC TEIN S-TECH LOWERING SPRINGS
3. Tokico HP Shock Absorber and Strut Assembly
4. gorilla lug locks to protect the rims

sorry but im new at this
Am i missing anything?

MindBomber

That's nearly perfect, but I could build on your parts list a bit.

Wheel locks are generally speaking a four piece set with one locking nut for each wheel, you need a complete set of sixteen lugs, because the OEM lug nuts will not be compatible with aftermarket wheels. Aftermarket wheels use a spline drive conical seat lug, where your OEM wheels use a standard drive balll seat lug. A sixteen lug set may have been what you were referring too, not sure.

Expanding even further on the subject of lug locks, if a thief wants your wheels, nothing short of welding the wheel to the hub will stop them from getting them. A wheel thief not only has a bag of keys in his tool box, but the knowledge to break almost any wheel lock off within a couple minutes. For that reason, if I didn't have a safe place to park at night, I wouldn't even consider expensive wheels.. just a basic not overly valuable set.

You'll see and hear lots of discussion regarding camber kits and lowering if you do much searching, which it looks like you have, although it's not included in your parts list at the moment, I'll clarify that you do not one. Not with the set-up you're planning anyway.

Lowering puts A LOT of stress on a suspension, it completely changes the geometry designed by Honda and that affects every related component. At 91k you're quickly approaching the end of the total life span of every suspension component anyway, so be prepared for some of new clunks and pops to develop after lowering. Parts that may need replacement in the next 20k are tie rods, tie rod ends, ball joints and the front control arm bushings. That's only $350 worth of parts grand total though, and they're all very DIYable tasks except the bushings and you can even do part of the labour on those yourself.

stevencg

thanks for you imput minibomber!!!!

i was thinking about 17x7 Tenzo Tracer Version 1 Matte Black wheels.

im going to confuse matters.

1. I Dont need to install camber kits, correct???

2. I might go with eibach pro kits since i live in NY

3. what type of lug nuts/ locks you suggest?

4. seems like alot of work for my suspension, are there any COMPLETE kits that i can buy to make life easier?

MindBomber

Honestly, I don't think you'll ever need to worry much about someone stealing Tenzo wheels. The wheels that good locks are really important to have are OEM Mercedes, Porsche, BMW or high end forged aftermarkets like Volk, BBS and Work. The reason for that being that they retain over $1k or even $2-3k in value on the second hand market, where Tenzo, Rota, Axxis, XXR and such usually sell for $300-500 used. The tenzo tracers are really nice by the way, good choice.

1. You do not need a camber kit. S.techs or Eibachs are both relatively soft springs and HPs do not have an aggressively valved damper; the damper is basically the shaft that moves up and down within a strut or shock. One would be necessary with stiffer springs and aggressive dampers, but then you're getting more into a high performance, **** ride quality, blowing tons of money on suspension components type set-up.

2. Eibachs are great springs, just like s.techs. The half inch difference in drop won't make a huge difference when driving in snow if that's your concern though, I don't find driving up to 2" lowered is much of a hindrance on unplowed roads. Hell, last year when my area got a ton of snow and lowered 2" I was driving past stuck SUVs, because I had good tires and was able to just push through the bit of snow hitting my bumper.

3. I have Mcgards and absolutely love them, I think the set of sixteen was $65.

4. Unfortunately, no complete kits. It's tough to wrap your mind around all the parts at first, but it's pretty simple once you actually see everything on the car.

stevencg

ok just a couple more questions:

I apologize for my lack of experience

1. is it safe to say that the TEIN S-Tech Springs are "inbetween" the eibach prokit and sport kit in terms of height? I dont want it to low, yet i read that the pro kit does not show much difference from the stock OEM

2. NOT including the springs/struts can you make a list of things that a civic 04 coupe EX (91k) would need in terms of suspension? I am going to try to install everything at once.
i know you already mentioned
tie rods,
tie rod ends,
ball joints
front control arm bushings

3. Do i go with the OEM parts for the things listed above? Again not looking for superior performance here. If anything this is more of a cosmetic / maintenance job.


4. what about the Eibach Sport-Plus Suspension Kit with Anti-Roll-Kit? think i need that?

MindBomber

No need to apologize, when I first registered my questions were very similar, 7000 posts and three suspension set-ups later...

1. Prokit and s.techs should be very similar in the drop, browse the stickied suspension drop pics thread, you should be able to find pictures of 7th gens with all the common springs in there.

2. That's pretty much a complete list, the only other part to consider would be sway bar endlinks, but I would just wait until those break. They tend to last a quite a bit longer than the other suspension components.

3. OEM parts are good, but Dezod offers Ingalls replacements for less than OEM and they should be very comparable in quality. The only part I wouldn't go with OEM level replacements are the compliance bushings, the OEM design sucks, they always tear. Upgrade to energy suspension bushings, they won't sacrifice much ride quality and they'll outlast the car.

4. The eibach anti-roll kit isn't worthwhile, it uses a 16mm rear sway bar and you can get a used 19mm or 21mm RSX rear sway bar for $50 from a junk yard and it bolts up. Great mod, probably the best bang for the buck upgrade you can make.

stevencg

mindbomber you have been a big help.

I checked out the Dezod offers Ingalls replacements, ill get my stuff there.

1. about my calipers. since i am going to get matte black rims, i will paint the calipers AND the rear drum brakes black. i mean the Wilwood Front Forged Dynalite Drag Big Brake Kit-Civic 01-05 Coupe & Sedan or even the Wilwood Front Dynapro 6 Big Brake Kit-Civic 01-05 Coupe & Sedan just seem a little bit over board don't you think. by painting everything black it wont be noticeable.
plus i can only have them in the front and not the rear. might look strange.

comments?

http://www.dezod.com/cat_big_brake_kits.cfm

MindBomber

I'd only encourage someone to dedicate substantial funds towards a big brake kit if they had first spent on an equivalent level suspension, which would be koni/d-spec with ground controls or Tein SS at the minimum, and they were having issues with losing necessary stopping power as a result of brake fade with HP+ pads and SS lines. Installing one while the car is below that level and you aren't having brake fade issues, it becomes a very expensive cosmetic part. Sl33py and I both want the wilwood kit, but neither of us have bit the bullet, money is better spent elsewhere. Modifying a car becomes incredibly expensive very quickly, so I've gotten in the habit of putting my money where the most benefit will be seen.