Civicnoobie

Is this normal? I took the entire wheel bearing assembly off my rears and the inner and outter bearings inside had some give and werent completely tight sitting in the housing. I also noticed my back right wheel bearing rubber seal (thats attached to the car it looks) is cracked and rusted. I called Honda and some other parts stores to see if they have this replacement but believe it or not none had! Not even Honda! So how am i going to replace it? Also, if i left this rubber seal in, what will happen long term? Because i think this could be the cause of the sqealing in my back right tire.

Steez26

My wheels keep turning? Idk what the problem is?

lazlong

No, there shouldn't be any play in the bearings. Can you take a pic of this "seal" your talking about?

Civicnoobie

I was dumb and didnt take a pic when I had the bearing hub off. But look at this pic, see the pointy rod sticking out? Your bearing hub attaches right onto it. At the base of that rod (closest to the car), around the rod is a rubber seal. From what i was told you can get it out with a screw driver and cut it out. But im not going to do it if honda doesnt even have a replacement for it. Im almost thinking this is whats causing the sqeaking in that tire.

SpeedDownZone

Did you buy that repair manual they told you about? Cuz it should not be giggling you don't want your tires to do the same.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

see the link in my sig saying honda parts/drawings? try to locate part in that site...

lazlong

What pic? Do you mean #2,3 in this link? https://www.bkhondaparts.com/index.p...%20LOWER%20ARM It's sold as part of the knuckle so, you have to get a new knuckle to get it. Or you can take it to the parts store and see if they have something to match it.

SpeedDownZone

I think he was talking about the pic you asking to take.

Civicnoobie

sorry right here, ignore the fact this is for the control arm, but the bearing hub has a similar looking type steel rod sticking out from the car and around the base of it, it has a rubber seal. You wont see it in this pic but you get the picture im sure.




Just googling and noticed this. Do you think its this? the rear differential bearing? Do our cars even have them?



Now from what i was told, that silver rod that sticks out from the cars knuckle and has the bearing hub atached on, doesnt spin. So would it be safe to just leave my rusted and worn seal? But i have a feeling that could be the cause of my sqealing tire. But like i said the sqealing is most obvious when it rains or i wash the car. So not sure how exactly water can get inside a drum.

lazlong

^^ "It's sold as part of the knuckle so, you have to get a new knuckle to get it. Or you can take it to the parts store and see if they have something to match it."

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

don't even know sometimes why i keep links in my sig.... siiiigh...

where are the DIY guys again? including DIY searchs...

lazlong

DUDE! Your forgetting who started this thread again.

sdaidoji

iTrader: (1)

bwaaahahahaha!

7genmarathon

iTrader: (1)

I'm having trouble with my bearings. I think they might be losing there bearings.

lazlong

^^ lol. Are they leaking?

Civicnoobie

Dont worry im checking it out.

Aside from thT do our cars have rear tie rods? I want to check the condition too on those.

lazlong

^^ lol. No, unless you have all wheel steering. Tie-rods are steering components. Did you mean swaybar? Then, yes, swaybar and swaybar end links on the EX and SI models.

7genmarathon

iTrader: (1)

Nah. I was kinda trying to say...

"My nuts are going nuts"

get it?

Civicnoobie

Ya what i dont get is that the sqweaking sound is most obvious after water uits the back right tire. So if it rains or get. A car wash the sound comes back at full force. So water has to be getting in contact with the part. I did notice mu drum does woblle a tiny bit from side to side when on and maybe water is getting inside the drum. Is there anyway to fill yhat gap? Maybe paint filler between the drum and wheel hub?

Its eiher that or the rubber seal thats cracked. Just need to figute this out in case its a huge safety risk. I dont need my wheel giving out while driving.

Civicnoobie

Used Sjas link and called Honda as well, confirmed its the rear knuckle bushings I need. Now i need to find out if its the front or back I need or both. Dont want to replace the back if i dont have to but maybe its best to.

I still dont get how water gets to the knuckle bushings if the bearing hub and drum is covering it.

I came across this online, im thinking maybe its these bushings. these 2 bushings in this pic are the trailing arm bushings, is that the same as rear LCA bushings??

lazlong

yes. LCA= Lower Control Arm

Civicnoobie

I was able to hoist the car at a mechs shop this afternoon. We both took a look at it and they said aside from the rust and minor tares/scraps on the sides near the ends (but no rips), they look ok.

While it was up i lubed the **** out of them and after took it for a drive for about 30mins. The sound was still there. So it sounds like its not the LCA bushings and infact its the front bushing on the rear knuckle! I knew it! This has to be it! Do you think my testing is good enough or any other ways to test out my rear LCA bushings to see if theyre toast or not?

I did some research and what i gather online is that the rear LCA bushings on 7th gen hondas arent very common in going bad. Its mostly the front, am i right?

So I need to ask, is it normal/acceptable for bushings to have some small rips/tares but nothing totally noticable where its ripped through half the bushing.

Civicnoobie

Im getting really confused if this is a seal or rubber bushing that I need. I ordered the bushing from Honda and should be here Tues. Its called the rear knuckle front bushing.

See in this pic, (this is not my car) but the rusted part is the wheel bearing hub, so you pop that off and you see a silver steel rod sticking out from the car that this bearing hub goes onto. Around that silver rod you have a rubber bushing. That is what IS ripped on mine and needs replacement.



Now for the rubber seal for the wheel bearing, honda said they dont sell it seperately. Can someone tell me where this rubber seal goes? I cant find it in that link posted.

Civicnoobie

I took a pic of my old rear wheel bearings I just took out. Is this the rubber seal everyone is talking about? If so then Im pretty sure my new one has them in already. I couldnt buy just the bearing as it only came in an entire bearing hub assembly with the bearing and all already pressed in.

lazlong

$45 @ rockauto.com for just the bearing.

That seal will come with the bearing.

Civicnoobie

So that pic I pointed out is infact the rubber seal? If so im certain my new one has it already. Ill double check tommorow but I already put them in on Friday.

So if thats the case, then it sounds to me like its the rear knuckle front bushing causing the sqweaking and moaning.

Do you know whats the best way to tell if I need new rear control arm bushings? Aside from myself and 2 more people i know inspecting it so far they all said it looks fine. I even did the "shake test" today with the car still on the ground and try to rock the tire back and fourth. Its solid as a mother ****er.

In the meantime im trying my best not to drive the car until tues when i get the knuckle bushings.

I think i made a mistake buying cheap certified brand wheel bearings. You think i should take them out and get a better set? I just cant return these ones cause theyre already installed.

Civicnoobie

At one of my mechs right now, didnt get the noise from back right tire fixed but a bit better. Its not the rear LCA bushings cause he said they are tight as a mother ****er.

I will still have to replace my rear knuckle bushing cause that one is toast. Im still almost certain this is the problem.

1) spring in drum wasnt installed properly. The previous owner whoever did the brakes last didnt put the spring in properly. So what do you know, the mech i had install my recent brake job didnt pick up that the spring wasnt installed right and just installed the spring back like how it came when he first saw it. Not just him but even the mech after him who tried to diagnosis it! Neither were able to spot the incorrectly installed spring.

2). He also said my front left wheel hub is a bit bent. He said its going to be really expensive to replace the hubs so could either do that or cut the rotor but that would mean that i would have to cut the rotor everytime i get new rotors then. He said if i drive with a bent front wheel hub, it will get more bent over time, so best to cut the rotor. Is this true?

A couple pointers he gave me was to

1) Ditch my Wagner thermal quiet pads and go with Honda pads or at least semi metallic ones. Apparently these Wagners dont allow the heat to escape as well and they cut into the rotor. I told him i was surprised cause i was recommended them by a lot of people including members on here who use them with good results. He said hes seen a lot of problems with them.

2) Too not paint my drums black and replace my drums. He said they overheated, what the hell? Really how? I had this noise even before my drums were painted and even before my new pads were installed.

Better pic, the bushing is the black ring around the knuckle.