Timing Belt + General Maint Questions
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For all the more a tensioner or water pumps costs, just replace them all...I would rather spend the extra money in replacing all the parts (even if the old parts are still in good shape) so that I would not have to do the same tear down job a few months down the road
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yup...
ask xriceboyx about... 2 weeks...
I hated doing the suspension twice in 2 weeks for the upper mounts... and that's a easy job second time, since the bolts were cracked open once.
ask xriceboyx about... 2 weeks...
I hated doing the suspension twice in 2 weeks for the upper mounts... and that's a easy job second time, since the bolts were cracked open once.
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Pfft.. when I go in there I change everything, every time... I've heard stories of pple changing their timing belts and the water pump going bad 10k miles later.. man would I be pissed. it's ultimately up to you how far you want to take it though, so use your disgression. At least remove the water pump from the car to inspect it, and put a new seal on it.
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yes i agree with you 100%....and i am going to replace the belt and tensioner and water pump WHEN i do the job....that is not my question though....my question is how long can i wait?....it is still very cold where i live and i dont have heated facilities to perform the job....
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Pfft.. when I go in there I change everything, every time... I've heard stories of pple changing their timing belts and the water pump going bad 10k miles later.. man would I be pissed. it's ultimately up to you how far you want to take it though, so use your disgression. At least remove the water pump from the car to inspect it, and put a new seal on it.
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Two things
First, the only method approved by Honda to remove the crank bolt is a breaker bar with the special tool, thats even the method the techs who have access to 1000ft lbs impacts use.
Second, the average impact won't remove the crank bolt. The few members who aren't techs and actually have air tools or an electric impact will still be out of luck without the tool, because average 550ft lb impacts are nothing in this battle. typically a 1000ft lb++ impact is needed.
First, the only method approved by Honda to remove the crank bolt is a breaker bar with the special tool, thats even the method the techs who have access to 1000ft lbs impacts use.
Second, the average impact won't remove the crank bolt. The few members who aren't techs and actually have air tools or an electric impact will still be out of luck without the tool, because average 550ft lb impacts are nothing in this battle. typically a 1000ft lb++ impact is needed.
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that would mean the car would have about 150,000 miles on it when im due for my second belt replacement....do you think the tensioner and water pump will be good till then?....considering they have never been changed?....i am more concerned about tensioner failure at this point rather than the belt snapping....
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Honestly, knowing that the tensioner wasnt changed last time I'd probably pull everything at 240k (kms). The tensioner ---usually--- emits a high pitch noise if something is wrong, and seldom completly fails.
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If I read everything correctly, Your car has around 200k miles and the water pump is original?
I would change everything when the weather gets warmer, wherever you are located...That is a lot of miles on a water pump IMO...
I would change everything when the weather gets warmer, wherever you are located...That is a lot of miles on a water pump IMO...
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A 1000 ft lbs of torque! You are out of your mind. I don't use close to that much on torque on anything I can think of on the 170000 lb C17 Aircraft that I maintain for a living! Why would a simple car engine use that much.I have changed many timing belts with a impact wrench and never had any problems. Do you really use 1000 ft/lbs of torque when you install it? C'mon man, give me a break.
Whoa whoa man, its not that its put on wih this amount of torque, its not, trust me. But its the counter-rotation of the pulley against the nut that tightens it, and tightens it more and more over time. When I tried to get mine off, I basically stood on the rachet extension and jumped a couple of times before it cracked...loudly and scared the crap out of me LOL.
In short its a total b1tch, THAT we can all agree on!!
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no....it has 200,000 kilometers....so about 120,000 miles
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if the crank pulley is also a harmonic balancer then yes they can go bad....over time the weighted portion of the pulley can start to seperate from the pulley and come loose....i have seen it happen before and if it does happen it will cause VERY SERIOUS damage to your crankshaft and crankshaft bearings....
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Whoa whoa man, its not that its put on wih this amount of torque, its not, trust me. But its the counter-rotation of the pulley against the nut that tightens it, and tightens it more and more over time. When I tried to get mine off, I basically stood on the rachet extension and jumped a couple of times before it cracked...loudly and scared the crap out of me LOL.
In short its a total b1tch, THAT we can all agree on!!
In short its a total b1tch, THAT we can all agree on!!
I don't believe that spinning of the engine increases the torque of the nut. The pulley has teeth in it for just that reason. If anything corrosion can make it seize.
Last edited by Mad Dog Tannen; 03-28-2011 at 10:24 AM.
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I would also say that it is tighter because of weathering/rust/corrosion...
Oh...that is only a difference of 80,000 miles..haha...I still would plan to do the whole job sooner rather than later, in early summer (to be on the safer side of being stranded)
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tbohar, you are correct. A crank pulley and a harmonic balancer are the same thing in our cars.
Mad dog, teeth on the pulley are in the inner race of the pulley, to key to the crank shaft. And you need the tool so your engine doesnt rotate clockwise and bust valves cause its an interference fit engine.
And guys, its the counter, tightening rotation of the pulley and nut that makes it tight. I pulled it off and re-installed it already, see my DIY contribution...or just google it, LOL. Corrosion wont adhere a nut on THAT tight...maybe in extreme cases, yeah...but not this one.
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^ Yes the teeth are on the crank. If the pulley was held on by friction from the nut then it would tighten but it's not it's just there to make sure it doesn't slide off the teeth. The key is there to make sure the ignition marks align properly. The impact gun breaks the torque fast enough that it won't rotate the engine, which wouldn't matter anyway because your timing belt and pulley would still be attached and held in alignment by the teeth of the T.B. pulley. Every time I've removed a pulley it has taken the same amount of effort as did installing it.
Check out how the manual only says not to install the bolt with impact wrench. Nothing about removing it...
I am basically done discussing this. I have never had any problems with using an impact wrench, I find that it makes it extremely easy, even when I have had access to the special tool.
I was simply trying to tell everyone that they don't need special tools for every job. If you follow the factory service manual then you will spend a lot of money on special tools and you will waste your time.
Check out how the manual only says not to install the bolt with impact wrench. Nothing about removing it...
I am basically done discussing this. I have never had any problems with using an impact wrench, I find that it makes it extremely easy, even when I have had access to the special tool.
I was simply trying to tell everyone that they don't need special tools for every job. If you follow the factory service manual then you will spend a lot of money on special tools and you will waste your time.
Last edited by Mad Dog Tannen; 03-28-2011 at 08:13 PM.
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In other words you still need to tool to properly reinstall the bolt? Timing belt is installed before the crank pulley (just info for those that havent done it before) and rides a seperate pulley called the Timing Belt Pulley or something like that.
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A 1000 ft lbs of torque! You are out of your mind. I don't use close to that much on torque on anything I can think of on the 170000 lb C17 Aircraft that I maintain for a living! Why would a simple car engine use that much.I have changed many timing belts with a impact wrench and never had any problems. Do you really use 1000 ft/lbs of torque when you install it? C'mon man, give me a break.
#55
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i wouldnt count on the compression to stop the crank from turning....also when you are tightening the bolt you are basically trying to rotate the crank in the opposite direction of its normal travel which is never a good idea....
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Alright I didn't know that you could use the engine compression... I'll have to remember that next time. I still wedged the tool in there when I put everything back together
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thanks for all the help and advice....i have decided i am going to give this a shot myself when the time comes....i have done many timing belts before so i guess this one should be pretty easy once that pulley is off....
i think im going to take it to a shop around the corner from me and get them to loosen the nut and tighten it up just enough to get me back home so i can remove it easier....does anybody know any good websites in canada to order the parts from?....i need all 3 belts, tensioner, and water pump....
i think im going to take it to a shop around the corner from me and get them to loosen the nut and tighten it up just enough to get me back home so i can remove it easier....does anybody know any good websites in canada to order the parts from?....i need all 3 belts, tensioner, and water pump....
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Driving to a shop and having them crack the pulley bolt sounds like a hassle to me. If I were you and didn't have the the special tool or air tools, I would just buy the special tool. You will probably end up having to pay the shop to loosen the bolt for you. (you can find the tool for just under 30 bucks shipped on the internet)