dryft

( I apologize for the dim lighting in advance )
THIS DIY IS USING "www.fueldoorfix.com" 's Canadian piece to fix the door
Tools needed:
1. 10 mm ratchet
2. 14 mm ratchet
3. Phillips head screw driver
4. 2 flat head screw drivers
5. 2 aspirin



pry off the lock cover carefully, (i cracked mine), use 2 flatheads, insert one into obvious hole on top and the other right next to it. pry up and towards the inside of car until it pops off


use phillips head to unscrew screw next to lock


use flat head to pry cylindrical, silver lock out



lets remove the seatbelt now, it's heavy and can be useful for weight reduction, OR TRIM REMOVAL.
first pry off plastic center cap on bottom of driver side seatbelt harness. Be careful it's plastic and can snap.
next use a 14mm ratchet and remove bottom of seatbelt


removed, now you'll be able to remove both pieces of trim for easy access to fuel door lever

next your going to remove the trim surrounding your hood release. theres 2 plastic clips to release. The white circle clips, 1 top 1 bottom in pic below




pull trim from top first, out and towards the rear of the car. then pull bottom of trim piece the same way. You have to do this to avoid breaking the clip because of the slot the white clip slips into on the trim shown below:
top:

bottom:



the next piece of trim you remove is the running board, i guess you could call it. This is why you detached the seatbelt. CAREFULLY slide your fingers under the outer edge and begin to pop out clips:


as you can see below, there's 4 clips to pop out on top*, then theres like 4 more on the back inner trim wall. These are the clips you have to slide a certain way or they'l break, (which mine did). Try and pry off and slide toward the *rear*(*i think ==>to check it, the slide holes on the back trim wall should be in the opposite direction as the white clips on top(4)*), pushing a little towards the inside of your car.


with that removed you should see the lever setup. It's attached to the inner edge with a 10 mm bolt you need to undo (top left in pic), heres a pic of the inside of the setup:




attach your Canadian black snap-on piece to the 1st white circle and around the wire, snap on other half and test it before putting everything back together. Once it works put back on all the trim and go show off your working fuel door!



NOTE: when re-installing the 10 mm bolt, be careful where exactly you position it because it will affect if the lever rubs against the housing when lifted.

twiztedD17A1

AHHH u used the part from fueldoorfix.com nice diy +1 for the coupe install. How about mine?

pheaton

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, I just used the fix on my car on Saturday. Worked like it was supposed to. Really easy to do.

DsevenEm2

iTrader: (6)

bookmarked thanks man!

eviee1973

Did This, Worked As Stated, My Only Addition Would Be That Those Who Live In The Salt Belt Check The Cable End Where It Goes Into The Release Handle As It Expands, It Corrodes, So Causes Sticking Between The Handle And The Cable End. Clean As Necessary To Bring Back Proper Fit.

jrock

iTrader: (1)

Completed this project yesterday! Followed DIY and was so simple! Thank you so much dryft for the awesome write up. On a side note....the FUELDOORFIX product is kick ***.....what an awesome fix!

africanoboomer

really good i was having this probelm and the boot too and now i can go fix this.

skilletaudio

I actually fixed that plastic piece myself with thread and super glue - you take about a foot of heavy thread, and glue an end down.
Then, wrap the thread tightly around the part, kind of like you are putting thread on a spindle, tight and close. After each layer of thread, saturate with super glue.

Thread + superglue roughly equates to concrete. Very handy for small plastic parts that dont need to do much.

Worked fine for a couple months, until the actual cable itself busted off due to the stress of the angle it is at when held in place. Turns out, that plastic piece of crap was the strongest piece of that assembly once I got through with it, so all the stress went to the cable and it finally busted off. Check your cable for signs of cracking or fatigue. You might be closer to a full replacement of the part than you think.

GreenMachineDX

Wut is this? Confusing Me..

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

It is a common problem on the 7th gens for the fuel door release cable to break, and then the fuel door has to be opened from inside the trunk.

This is a quick and easy fix for the problem.

GreenMachineDX

Oh Ok... Well, I dont have this problem yet... But its good to see there is a diy for this fix..

randylavers

thanks, Ive got the same problem. maybe this video will go along nicely with your DIY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5-ovIXM6pX4

randylavers

im going to try some type of home made job, maybe some wire or something, I'll get it too work. Don't feel like ordering a new cable OR that fix kit. $90CAD for the cable from Honda

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

its interesting how one cable works for both trunk and fuel door...