1taplay

hey guys,

i currently own a 2004 honda civic lx, 1.7L with everything stock except for the audio system. I have been having a lot of problems with the OEM battery dying during winter session and also not being able to run the audio system without having the engine running, so i was thinking about getting a optima yellow top as i have heard that these batteries are a lot stronger than the OEM ones and the manufacture's website says its meant for people who have a lot of accessories.

As per Optima's website, i need to get: Optima Batteries 8071-167 D51 YellowTop Dual Purpose Battery, however, despite optima having their name recognition, im a bit hesitant on getting this after reading some reviews on amazon outlining some longevity concerns...

Im wondering if any1 is using or has used a optima in their 2004 civic and if so, what is your overall impression about the battery? would you recommend it?

Are there any alternatives to optima batteries?

Thanks in advance for any input provided.

mikey1

i would suggest replacing your alternator with a higher output model, that would be alot more beneficial then an expensive battery,

pjb3

An Optima battery is more of a band-aid than a cure. Optima claims their batteries handle deep cyles ( discharging and recharging) better than standard batteries. If your alternator is not providing enough power to run the load on your electrical system then you are discharging the battery and any battery will eventually die. The Optima will suposedly handle being recharged from dead better.

The first thing I would do is get the battery load tested. This will make sure it is fully charged and able to supply the rated amps. If it has been completely dead multiple times it may be damaged.

If you have a monster sound system then you should look into a high output alternator. If you have a an upgraded sound system but not outrageous you should be able to stay with the stock alternator.

1taplay

thanks for the replies. i have a very basic understanding of the car's mechanics, which could be the reason why im not 100% if replacing the alternator will address my concerns.

This is the configs of my sound system: all 4 speakers are replaced with pioneer after market ones, pioneer flip out dvd/mp3 player, 2x12" subwoofer with 1x1000 watt amp connected through a capacitor...this setup is over 7 year old so not sure if this is considered a monster or a normal setup?

Additionally, i havent had the subwoofers connected in a long time (over 8+ months), and yet i notice the battery dying during winter time, which is another reason that makes me think that the alternator might not be the problem?

Lastly, i know that my current OEM battery needs to be replaced as it has been flagged as "dying" by the dealership and midas...

Stock 99

Speakers and head unit don't make any difference. It's the 1000w amp that's the major load in your system. So when the alternator and battery were new(er) they could keep up with the demand but over time batteries lose their power/storage capacity. Even though the sub was disconnected the battery still needs to be replaced. The alternator is only meant to top off a charge on a battery. If you don't change the dying battery until the car will no londer start then the alternator has been working overtime to keep it charged and it too may need to be replaced.

lowlife9

Optima is a waste of money get yourself the biggest Duralast yellow top you can fit and do a big 3 upgrade thats all you really need. your going to need to slightly modify your battery tray to accommodate the larger battery. ive been running this setup for years.

1taplay

thanks for your feedback, what you said is pretty much what i was thinking, start with the battery, since i know its dying, and then move on to the next thing if that doesnt fix the problems...the main problem im trying to fix is the battery lasting through winter the rest i can live without...

well, without modding anything, the optima battery that will fit my stock battery tray is about 157.00 + tax on amazon. I did call autozone and the duralast gold that will fit my stock tray is 135.00 + tax, so its not a huge price difference, and i dont mind getting the optima yellow top, if its truly a better battery

pjb3

I would start by replacing the battery. You already know it is marginal. I would leave the alternator alone unless testing indicates there is a problem with it.

mikey1

if he replaces the battery and the alternator can not keep up with the load, that new battery will be fried in no time

Stock 99

This is what I would do as well. You won't always kill the alternator neglecting a dying battery...and the new battery should keep the need for the alternator to do it's job down to a minimum. If the battery dies again after replacement then it's probably time for an alternator as well. If you run a battery flat dead though you should always use a battery charger rather than you're alternator to charge it up again.

pjb3

The system had no problems for seven years and the problems only began when the battery was marginal. Alternators are pretty much either good or bad. Since his is working fine why would you replace it?

lowlife9

like i said before your not looking for a stock size battery you want something bigger. my dura gold top is like 2 1/2 stock batteries and cost me $95 dollars out the door. the item number is 031693 34DT-DLG it has a 8 year warrant.

Stock 99

I not a battery brand expert which is why I didn't weigh in on the original question. I generally get the cheapest easiest thing I can find....that being said I run a bone stock Civic and have no special needs from my electrical system.

If you want to continue running that 1000w amp after you replace the battery then your best option is to increase your battery capacity like lowlife is explaining (2 1/2 of your original batteries). Either that or run a few capacitors in series on the amp.

I certainly have read in these forums that all batteries in north america are made by the same manufactor except for the Optima. What difference that makes I really don't know and wouldn't be inclined to go that route either....I would go either 1 bigger battery or 2 in series where large stereo systems are a contributing factor.

bsmiley

Duralast and Optima are both made by Johnson Controls. So is DieHard and Interstate. They are the largest battery mfg in North America. They build and sell batteries under many names. Exide batteries declared bankruptcy last year and cited that one of the main reasons was Walmart's decision to source batteries from Johnson Controls.
Check out this link to see the battery brands made by J.C.:http://bestbatterytips.com/tags/who-...ard-batteries/

http://www.forbes.com/sites/greatspe...or-bankruptcy/
http://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us...hnson-controls

mikey1

because his stock alternator can not keep up with the load,

that is whats killing his battery,

he needs a high output alternator,

when the alternator can not produce enough current for the demands, the electrical system starts to suck power from the battery, eventually it will drain the battery,

which is exactly whats happening here,





.

thetut

Here you go: https://www.civicforums.com/forums/1...t-upgrade.html

pjb3

Wrong. The system has been fine for seven years and he isn't even using the sub anymore. It's not a new battery that died in a couple of months, it's an old battery that was already having problems.

Before I would start replacing parts that are hundreds of dollars and most likely not a problem I would put an ammeter in the circuit and see what is going on.

lowlife9

you definitely don't need a high output alt for a 1000watt system. im running a duel amp setup at close to 2,000 watts 4 ohm and one small capacitor big 3 and the larger duralast.

1taplay

thanks for all the feedback and the discussion. Looking at the responses, the overall consensus was to start with replacing the battery and then move on to the next best thing if replacing the battery doesnt address the problem.

With that said, i have gotten the same size duralast battery for now. It will take quite a bit of modding, unfortunately, to get the bigger size (31) battery.

Thanks everyone, again, for all the opinions

lowlife9

the only mod needed to fit the 34DT-DLG is to remove the battery tray and beat the edges flat.

ttamoneypit

are there any other batteries that will fit?

I just need a regular battery for a completely stock 98 civic, haven't had to buy any car/truck batteries in a long time and can't believe a walmart battery is $108 for the civic, so I'm just trying to find the cheapest battery I can get

Slumpertcivic

One of those $5 cigarette adapter battery voltage meters can do wonders to tell you if your leaving your battery under charged and the resulting degradation over time.

Especially if you bought a new battery, looking at the voltage before you actually start each day you will see the gradual (or faster) drops in that 1/10 of a volt.

A higher purity lead content battery does better and glass mat packing is awesome for high vibration small foot print batteries to keep the thinner plates from literally breaking and or bending and shorting out.