Pablo2312

Hi,

I have a Honda Civic EX 2002 manual transmission, this #$%^&%^*$% car has been burning oil since several months ago.

I replaced the Vtec solenoid valve gasket, the camshaft side cap and currently there is no sign of a drop of oil outside the engine BUT today I checked my oil level and noticed that the car has lost a SERIOUS amount of oil. In fact it is on the lower oil level mark. (This is the third time that this happens after I change oil to my car)

Also, there is no oil drops in the floor of my garage. If someone had the same experience please comment or share the solution. My car has 100k miles,

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

So you just changed the Oil and after how long do you notice the oil level low? 10 miles, 100 miles, 1000 miles?

kinakoes2

What oil viscosity are you using?

How much are you putting in the engine when you do an oil change? 7th gens take 3.5L or 3.7 quarts, with filter.

When you fill do you wait a few mins before checking the level? Cold oil takes some time to drain into the pan, and if you're using the wrong viscosity of oil, it'll take even longer for it to drain down and register the correct level.

Using too thick a viscosity can also seize the piston rings in their grooves, and cause blowby. I've had good luck with Gumout Regane fuel system additive in the tank, plus concensus here on the site is to use correct viscosity oil, and let its additives work it out over several tanks of gas.

My method for solving my consumption problem, was to use a small amt (1 - 2 cups of Rotella-T6 diesel engine oil) with the rest of the 3.7 qts of regular oil when I change, and let its superior diesel additive package do the work of freeing the rings... had very good luck with it, and my EX has 50K more than yours, despite being an '04.

Pablo2312

I change the engine oil every 3000 miles and always after around 2000 miles driven more than the 50% of the oil is gone.

Pablo2312

Hi kinakoes2,

I always use 3.85 quarters so it is a little overfilled but it is just to prevent a leak or something like that.

The engine oil used a months ago was 20W-50 but due to this problem my mechanic recommend me to try with Castrol Viscus 25w-60 which is a special oil for high miles diesel engines but I'm still facing the same problem.

GolNat

iTrader: (7)

You don't have a Diesel engine! Why don't you use the oil it tells you? I think that may be a possible cause.

mikey1

for the love of God......read your oil cap!

with all these oil changes you have never noticed what it says on it?

are you putting diesel fuel in your gas tank too?

20w50 is like mud to these engines

kinakoes2

Yup -- 3.7 qts of 20W50, will definitely seize your rings. It just doesn't get where it needs to be on startup esp where 80% of wear occurs, and won't drain out of high-heat areas like the ring-groove, and will sludge there over time, sticking the very-lo-tension rings. This engine isn't a LS2 or even an Escort SE engine -- it's not at all forgiving with too-thick oil. I don't care what countless hillbillies tell me -- when you spec oil in these engines, you need to stay very close to what's on the cap, way more than in other engines -- NOT go thicker in some deluded quest for power...

I swap 2 cups of nearly 15 in the case, with 5W40 Rotella-T6... but I do NOT fill the whole case with it. Your fuel economy must be horrible -- supposed to be ~34-35 combined in 50/50 driving. I'm getting 35, sometimes 36 now with 80/20 driving, and that's with 2 cups of R-T6 in there.

Kinda feel like never mentioning it again, so there's no confusion. It's helped my consumption dwindle to almost nothing in a 150K, not-loved motor... so it is a shame. :/

bsmiley

Its hard to feel good about what it says on the cap... I read somewhere that you can't believe everything you read...
I always try to get diesel but the pump won't go in, I guess I need a special adapter, where do I buy one?

kinakoes2

Just to be clear -- the diesel engine oil I use, is only in very small concentrations, 1:7... more to 'dope' the normal gas 5W20 oil with a touch of viscosity... but more importantly, even this small amt adds tons of additives designed for the much harsher environment of diesel engines. This means that they're much more effective than the additive package already in US-market 5W20 oil... and will do more anti-sludge, antacid, anti-shear, anti-wear, soot-suspension, and viscosity stabilization, without compromising the viscosity to the point of sticking those very sensitive, made-from-compressed-butterfly-wing piston rings in the 7th gens.

I use what works, and reject what doesn't, trying to figure out why. In the case of a shot of R-T6 in a beer stein of regular 5W20, got my consumption down to more than reasonable, with only the slightest effect on mpg (1-2, which is basically chance). So it's got a home in my case anytime.

kinakoes2

At your Ford, Chevy, or Mopar dealer!

bsmiley

Those are my peoples! We meet on Saturdays. Last week we talked about detergents in gasoline. A Ford guy was going to add some Tide to his tank this week. Odd, he said today that his Focus is having engine trouble...
This week were going to discuss wine coolers. I think I know how to make wine cooler, you just put it in the fridge!

ezone

Wow.

mikey1

well i guess you are smarter then everybody, including the engineers,

maybe that's why your car is running so great....oh wait

bsmiley

Its called sarcasm. Its a gift. "For the love of God man, why don't you read you oil cap"
I read the posts because I gain knowledge about my car from the replies of others with more experience. But I also have to shake my head at a lot of posts. Often the poster is asking a question I can relate to, but between the OP, who it turns out uses molasses as oil and another thread where a kid wants to bypass his heater core but "is not mechanically inclined"... well, sometimes you just have to laugh.
I try to help when I can but there is a minimum skill level in both communication skills and mechanics required by the OP.

mikey1

sorry.....i thought you were the OP

Pablo2312

Kinakoes,

I will change my oil grade for third time. I will stick with your advice and use 5w-20 (the grade speficied in my oil cap) and may be add a little bit of diesel engine oil.

I live in Costa Rica so the average temperature over the whole year is around 85 farenheit so "cold starts" of my engine are not a big deal is that a problem if I use 5w-20??

bsmiley

Honda recommends 5w-20 or 0w-20. You should be safe using either one.

kinakoes2

No, it should be fine, esp if you're fortifying the 5W20 with my recommended 2-cup dosage of 5W40 Rotella-T6 (though any synthetic diesel engine oil of the same rating, 5W40, should be fine). The engine's oil pump and clearances are designed and engineered to work with 5W20 and even 0W20 -- so too much thicker is not good for it.

I live in Hawaii... and here it's not that far off your temperatures now. In fact oil pressure will get faster to where it's needed in the engine in any condition, if you stick to the recommended viscosities. For hot weather (above 75degF) I wouldn't recommend the 0W20, but if it freezes, then a thinner synthetic would protect engine parts better when started cold.

Remember that if your total engine oil capacity is 3.7 qts with filter, then you add 2 cups (0.5 qt) of R-T6, to 3.2 qts of 5W20 regular engine oil.

Warminwisco

Pull plugs,1 oz of marvel mystery oil in each cylinder, let sit for 24 hours repeat. Replace plugs start engine and use recommended oil.

Many posts on the net for questions.

ezone

That only sounds like about roughly slightly less than 1 quart per 1000 miles, which is technically within consumption spec.
May not be desirable, but is acceptable. Refill regularly before it gets too low.

Pablo2312

Ezone,

Are you serious that is acceptable?, I never have had a car with an oil consumption like that.

I have had Toyota Rav4, Toyota Echo, Mitsubishi Pajero and honestly this is the first time this happens to me.

On the other hand, I'm refilling almost 0.5 L of coolant every 2000 miles. Is that another signal?

mikey1

uuummm no, i would not say that is normal

RIPSAW

Maybe it has already been said but have you checked this and the line to it to make sure it is open. The pvc valve should rattle. Clean with carb cleaner spray. OEM is probably better then an aftermarket replacement.

Pablo2312

Ripsaw,

What is that? Would you explain me a little. I feel kinda lost.

RIPSAW

When the pistons drive down, some compression and gasses leak past the rings. Even, just driving down, the air needs to go somewhere. The PVC (positive ventilation control) usually in the valve cover but on some Hondas located in a box on the side of the block run to the intake where the fuel is drawn into the engine. This is the part shown for your engine on the inportec.com web site. If it were to get stopped up, the pressure could be causing oil to be force into your intake. Usually on these cars, if oil is changed regularly, it never becomes a problem. Just a guess on my part. I do not have a service manual on your engine. Also have not a clue of your maintenance or how you drive. I have had three of these car and never had a problem but I have never had the throttle to the floor ever. Loaned one to my son and he broke the big pulley off the cam shaft in one night. So they will break if flogged hard. Sounds probably like your rings are worn out if you drive card hard and hit the red line a lot.

ezone

Yes, I said it's acceptable. Not necessarily desirable, but technically acceptable.



Now you do.
Any of those can do it too. Maybe you were lucky the previous owners took better care of those cars than the previous owner of this Civic you have now.
Can't say yet. Where is it going?

It always seems like I have to refill reservoirs regularly during many oil changes (but that's not necessarily a fact for every car), some of it might disappear due to evaporation, some may seep. It varies from car to car.

If yours is losing coolant regularly, you probably need to figure out where and why before you can assume it's a problem or if it's OK.



That was the PCV valve.

kinakoes2

The 7th gen Civics with the D17A1 and D17A2 engines, all have problems with head gaskets leaking combustion into the water jacket, pushing coolant out the overflow hose, and overheating. Sometimes this problem also leaks coolant into the combustion chamber, but pretty rarely (mine leaks into the chamber very slightly, but doesn't seem to leak in the other direction... at least not yet ).

First thing I would figure out is the coolant leak. It's most likely coming from the external lines somewhere (unless ezone knows a gasket where two parts come together, that run coolant across it).

Check *all* your hose clamps and hoses when the car is warm, as close to use conditions as possible. I had a car where it only leaked coolant when full warm and running at highway speed. Idling, off, no leak. It was a tiny crack in the hardened rubber where the old hose was clamped down; cut the hard portion off and repositioned the clamp -- no more empty coolant reservoir every two weeks.

kinakoes2

I'd worry about the oil viscosity long before I'd worry about the PCV valve. But if it hasn't been replaced since you've owned the car, it's a good time to swap it out, as it's quite easy to do and inexpensive.