SlimRisk

Alright so I live in Wisconsin. You know what that means, lots and lots of snow and salt and rain. I just got brand new headers and a test pipe and I want to protect them from rust as much as possible. I have some black high temp spray paint. Do you think that would work? I know water is a byproduct of combustion and I also dont want my exhaust system rusting from the inside out. What do you think I should do?

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

you might wanna return one of the headers since you only need one. Har har har.

But, back on topic, and less of being a smartass.

You need not worry so much about the inside of the header rusting. The stock cast iron one would be fckin toast if that were an issue. If you wanna protect the outside of it, I'm sure the high temp paint would work. Something like duplicolor engine enamel should do the trick. If you want something more permanent (as paint will probably be susceptible to chipping off), find a shop that will jet coat/ceramic coat/etc. That'll put a durable protective coating on your header, and will also double as a bit of a heat shield, since you (usually) can't quite fit the OEM heat shield over a new header.

while googling comparisons of jet coating, ceramic coating, duplicolor engine enamel, I read some good things on a DMS forum about swain tech coating. People on this thread might as well be saying "swain tech or GTFO." I'd say it's worth giving them a look see. Downside is you'd have to ship your header to them and wait for it to come back all shiny and new. That, and it'll cost you a pretty penny, as well.
http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Duplicolor Engine enamel will not work.
Engine Enamel is rated up to 500 degrees, if that.

Headers will probably exceed those temps easily.

I've heard of people using high temp paints like Krylon or Rustoleum BBQ paints that are rated up to 1000 degrees.
I tried using those, and they do not work.

Look into VHT flameproof coatings.
They come in plenty of colors, including clear.
Which are specifically designed for headers and exhaust piping. It uses a base of silicone ceramic rated for 1500~2000 degrees.
Best part is that it's only $10 a can.

xRiCeBoYx

iTrader: (22)

I thought that stuff was good to 2000...? O_o

P.s. my infrared thermometer read high 400s when pointed at each individual runner before.

SlimRisk

I heard if you heat your header up and then pour ATF on it that it'll create a coating on the top

Kennykid2002

iTrader: (1)

Dupli-Color%u00AE Engine Enamel contains Ceramic Resins for maximum heat dissipation and gloss retention. The resins offer protection from exposure to excessive heat and automotive fluids. Excellent for under the-hood applications, Dupli-Color%u00AE Engine Enamel will perform to the most rigorous standards of racing, street rod, and vehicle restoration enthusiasts. This durable formula resists temperatures up to 500%u00B0F intermittently and produces a superior finish that will not blister, flake, crack or peel.



I think hitting VTEC kicks the temps up to about 800+ Deg on the headers.
My Krylon painted headers are completely faded.

Btw, another option is to heat wrap your headers.

SlimRisk

I thought wrap shouldn't be used on street cars? And I also heard it speeds up corrosion because the water can penetrate it. Now if you painted your headers and wrapped them, that might be a different story. I think I'm gonna pick up a can of VHT

kinakoes2

For anyone reading this thread after getting a hit through search, here's my take on header treatments...

:: A wrap that you actually wrap around headers, will indeed trap moisture and super-accelerate corrosion, esp when your pipe is aftermarket thin-wall. When I raced some SV guys used wraps and got enough gains to have an advantage... but on the street in Seattle esp, it's a recipe for a new set of pipes every season. The heat dries out the inside of the wrap... but when you shut down, that dryness acts like talcum powder -- it attracts moisture, and holds it right onto the pipe. Heat also speeds up corrosion like crazy, when there's not enough of it there to evaporate water away. Result = corrosion. So-called corrosion-resistant Ti pipes are one good example of this: if you wrap them, they'll turn to powder... very expensive powder, when in open air they last much longer.

The reason car and bike racers used to use wraps and they got popularized, was not only to reduce underhood temps and protect shins, but hot exhaust gas flows faster, and the engine can run a bit leaner without sacrificing power. It treats longer, midrange-producing 4-2-1 headers as if they were shorter, meaning they don't take away as much top end compared to a 4-1.

Wraps were *never* intended to be used on a street car, as a permanent install. Remember that race teams expect to tear down vehicles a helluva lot more than an owner ever will, so they didn't have problems with corrosion (plus if a part corroded, they just got a new one and billed the sponsor ).

Coatings are both a better-looking, and in many cases, better performing way of keeping heat from escaping the exhaust gas and into your engine bay. But not everyone has the cash or time to send your pipes out. So a header jacket such as Thermo-Tec's is a good compromise. Yeah they don't look great, but at least there's no chance of moisture being trapped, and for an EX they're only $80. No they probably won't insulate as well as a coating, but if you're not all diva about your engine looks and not needing the gains for racing and just need to reduce underhood temps so your intake isn't sucking in 110 degF air in traffic... there ya go.