Geek-Squad-Man

Well kids, if anyone's been reading my "lil VP" thread, then you know I bought a Viper alarm, power door lock motors, and a truck lid popper.
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This is my attempt to document the install of the door lock motors......

First let me start by saying the DIY you are about to see is the passenger door, I went thru an entire day coming up with this, and once it worked on the Drivers door- I spent the next day taking pics and doing the passenger side the exact same way! ENJOY!

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This is the parts I started off with(you need the same exact stuff if you are to do yours my same way!)

First I went to my local Hobby shop and bought1 pack of fat yellow "golden rod"
also some Ball link ends(4 of them -2 kits) and a 12 inch piece of 4-40 threaded rod(all thread)
(for part numbers go right off the pictures)









Next, you goto the GREATEST store ever: BEST BUY- and get a couple cheap generic door lock motors:



Start off by removing all the notepads and Tums bottles from your door pocket:
(you can skip this step if you don't in fact have **** in your door pocket)



Carefully pry DOWNWARDS lightly from the top with a small screwdriver to get the cover off the Door handle (if you pry from the sides you will scratch the **** out of the soft plastic!)



Remove the (2) screws in there and place them in the Tupperware tray or bowl you stole from the kitchen for this job (don't let your Mom or wife find out!)


You can get the little clip behind the window crank off with a small regular screwdriver or Bent-tipped dental pick:


CAREFULLY- undo the little rod retainer clip:


Remove the cover inside the arm rest handle with your trusty small screwdriver-
(make sure you remove this cover gently with needle-nosed pliers and put in the aforementioned hardware tub, it will fall off and you'll loose the lil' ****er for sure when the door panel comes off!!)


Remove the screw under there and toss it in the tub:


Gently pop the handle upwards from the front out of the arm-rest:


Remove the (2) gold, fat-headed Phillips screws under there(see arrows)


ALSO! make sure you take off the little trim ring from behind the window crank- it too will go flying across the friggin yard when the panel comes off soon:


Pop loose the trim triangle by the mirror joystick (has spring loaded snaps)


Now: Starting from the bottom- grip the door panel and ****** at it quickly and purposely- to pop loose all the white snaps on the inside one by one- work your way around the door there's a bunch of them! (if you pull STRAIT OUT they wont break off!!)

Lift up and get the top of the door panel out of the window lip area and the panel is OFF!
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If you are retarded like me and cut the door panels (because the front speaker wasn't enough "sound" up front) then un-plug your Cerwin Vega 6.75" speakers (you can skip this part if you are normal and haven't cut the door panels)


You should now see your inner metal door that came from the factory covered in this weird white semi-tough plastic bag ****- glued to the door with a strange gummy caulking stuff??

On mine, I ditched that stuff for the greatest product on earth- months ago! (also known as Dynamat Extreme) If you haven't Dynamatted the doors yet, guess what? Nows the time kid!!! Make sure and pick up a Dynamat "Door-kit"- they are like 99 bucks at where? You guessed it- BEST BUY car stereo install dept. (thank god for the employee discount they don't cost ME 99 bucks!) One kit will do both doors on a Civic:


Be sure and ask me about my "custom" gutting the front speaker and using it to make a mount for my aftermarket speakers with a ring made from black plastic sheet:


Peel back CAREFULLY all the sticky, Tar-covered Dynamat on the rear portion of the door( if you have no Dynamat, do this step with the plastic ****, try not to tear it, you gotta put it back)
If you are Dynamatting the door panels- DO NOT throw away the stock plastic ****, you need a couple chunks, (I'll show ya where later)


Make sure your window is all the way up at this point (just slip the crank back on and roll it up( leave the clip off ) My window is down a couple inches in this pic and you cant get the rods off the outer door handle like this:


Pop loose the clip holding the Door-handle and Keylocks- I aint gunna lie, its a bitch, try and get them without breaking them, if you look at them- you can see where you would turn or roll them to unsnap them then remove the rod strait out- the outer door Latch rod is in REALLY stiff, you have to pry it off with a big regular screwdriver AFTER you've rolled the plastic upwards out of the way- If you do break one, they are available at ALL body-shop supply places that sell paint and primer and ****)




Next reach inside and get the clip off the rod that goes to the Inside Door handle (at the latch)


Next- carefully pop out the plastic thing that holds the door plunger cable and unscrew the black Plunger( make sure you count the turns- Usually 2 or 3)


Take loose the (3) big fat screws that hold the latch mechanism in the door- (Note how I lean into the screwdriver with my Thigh to provide serious torque to these bolts) They are in there pretty tight and you dont want the screwdriver to slip-



OK, remove the last screw from the white plastic "armor" over the inner Lock plunger cable- also reach inside with your hand and separate the armor from the latch assy by pulling the armor forwards, but holding the latch backwards against where it's supposed to bolt in the door:


Feed the cable thru the hole( this is why the plunger had to be removed)


Remove the lower bolt with a 10mm socket that holds the rear window track- reach inside the door after the bolt is out and gently pull down on this track, it will then tuck up and out of the way and kinda "hang" there for the rest of the job:


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VICTORY! your latch assembly is out and in your hot little hands!
But Uncle Paulie, what do we do now?

Geek-Squad-Man

Well kids, I knew you'd ask that-
Take the latch assy and carefully remove the small black Phillips screw:


also remove the pretty blue clip on the cable end:


Next GENTLY pry upwards at the metal of the latch outer cover where you see the two little catches in the front:


Lift off the metal latch cover and take care NOT to loose or drop the lever or plastic bushing that it rides on (put them in the bolt-tub for now)


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Now- take the latch assembly into your garage to your favorite bench(or your Kitchen table) Once again watch out for Mom or Wife here - they don't appreciate greasy Civic Door latches on their tables! Try and lay out an old shop towel (or stained pillow case like me) some sort of rag so you dont loose the little bits in the next step: Empty the contents of ONE of the Ball link kits-


This is where you will be attaching the ball link in the latch:


Start assembling the ball links by popping the ***** in first :


providing you faced the hole in the ball outwards- put the little tension screw in each ball link:


Now put one of the long allens thru your ball link and use the brass spacer on it, but use it BACKWARDS from the way the Ball link instructions tell you(coned side OUT- flat side against the ball):this will help the ball link self-center in the latch assy and also in your door-lock motor-


This next part is a total bitch- using small pliers, grip the Nylock nut and install the link in the latch assy with a small allen wrench(DO NOT cross thread this nut!!) Seriously!! the rod clips and -THIS STEP- is the hardest part of the whole friggin job!




Now, if you got it in and tight and the brass spacer thing is in the way I told you, it should look like this: (note the clearance of the end of the Allen screw to where the outer latch cover is gunna go back on)-


Next take a grinder, a die-grinder, or a Dremel and file-down a small portion of the white eyelet of your new Door-lock motor-


Install the other Ball link into the newly ground-down motor end: (note the small amount you take away to clearance the ball link)


Now the pinch bolt that provides tension to the ball in the ball link in the motor will be tight- but adjust the one in the latch assy to be a bit more free (but not so loose the screw falls out when the stereo hits)-Like back it off from full tight maybe a half or 3 quarters of a turn-


Cut a couple 1-inch pcs of your 4-40 threaded rod with a pair of Lineman's pliers:


Put a slight taper or bevel on the ends of the rods so they will start easily in the plastic (use a grinder or Dremel)



Now cut a piece of the Yellow part of the Gold-n-Rod (maybe like 2 to 3 inch)


Take small pliers and thread your pre-made pcs of threaded rod into each end of your Pushrod-




Screw the pushrod into the ball links several turns-
You should now have something that looks like this:

Geek-Squad-Man

OK, its all gravy from here! (bullshit!)

We need to place the latch lever back into the metal latch cover using the little white bushing I told you not to loose- snap it back in like the pictures:



CAREFULLY place the latch cover back on the latch assy, taking care NOT to knock the lever arm and white bushing back off the cover- this may take a couple trys, DON'T FORCE IT, you will break the latch, be patient! Also your Trusty small screwdriver can help you get the spring-loaded piece that the arm has to go UNDER held up and out of the way!!(see pic)


Pop the pretty blue clip back on the cable end:


Now, Flop the metal Push rods over so they are both facing up (make sure the one that goes to the keylock is in the little plastic "channel" in the latch- grip your hand around the latch assy so you prevent the rods from dropping out of place and put it back in the door-


Now, while holding the latch tight up against the door where its supposed to go, do a reach-around and start the (3) big cone-headed Phillips screws (uh, huh uh- he s,said "REACH AROUND!")


Put your cable back thru the hole and carefully put the Armor back on - tighten the (3) Latch screws and put the armor screw back in( don't mix up the armor screw with the one that goes in the inside of the inner armrest handle they are VERY similar the armor one is shorter!)- If you were to look inside the door at this point you will see your new lock motor hanging nicely underneath the latch just like you would want it:


Take the metal strap that came with the Door lock motors and use it to mark the distance between the holes in the latch motor (With a Sharpie-marker)


Get your drill ready and use a 13/64 drill bit to make a hole for the top motor bolt- For this step you need to be sitting on the ground with your head in the hole in the door looking at where the new Motor is sitting- I aint gunna lie, you have to "eyeball" it and get it right however you feel comfortable doing it? (I messed up the first hole in the pass side)



Once your hole is drilled, put a screw in the top of the lock motor and reach in and move the yellow pushrod up and down and make sure the motor moves the lock/latch assy correctly- if you are satisfied- get your Metal-strap template and mark the bottom hole, but remove the top screw BEFORE drilling the bottom hole so as not to damage the lock motor inside:



Now remove the front door speaker:


And get ready to do the wiring - put the bolts in the lock motor and all the rods back on the Door latch,(the Keylock one is the worst):



Make sure you got the silicone coverings on the plugs strait and even so water cant get in your connections, and tape down the wires into the bottom of the inner door with Foil duct tape (this stuff is the best for everything, including repairing your Dynamat seams and tears)


Remove the inner kick-plate next to where your feet go(snaps)
You are going to tape together the ends of the green and blue lock-motor wires, but leave a little "flag" of tape to attach them to whatever you are gunna pull or push them thru the rubber with-
Next get ready your extra-long reach Phillips screwdriver to feed the wires thru the rubber wiring "snorkel" into the body- The Drivers side you can insert the screw driver in from the car side and tape the wires to the screwdriver inside the door and PULL gently them thru, the Passenger side has a AC fan motor in the way so you have to tape the wires to the screwdriver and gently feed them thru to the inside with your arm in the speaker hole in the door:



carefully pull the wires thru after you get the tape off the end of the screwdriver-


Now if you are installing Dynamat- take a chunk of the stock white plastic covering and make a cover so the sticky Dynamat doesn't mess-up your inner door latch rod:




Put the bolt back in the lower rear window track and the bolts in the lock motor- take a Minute to make sure all Rod clips are on and nothing has been forgotten up to this point-
Put all your Dynamat or stock shitty white plastic covering back on-


Screw the black lock plunger back on the same turns you took it off with- and place the door panel back on by starting at the top and getting the window lip back in then work the white snaps back in all the way 'round.


Grab the window crank (no clip in it) and make sure the window is all the way up tight:


Place the window crank bushing back in the panel making sure to orient the tabs in the slots correctly:


Put the clip back in the crank - but make sure you put it in the way in the pic or you'll never get the crank off again easily (it will go in the crank from both sides)


I always put the crank handle back on at the 4- o'clock position so that when up, the thing isn't where your knee is?


Put the fat-headed gold bolts back in, the grab handle in the arm rest, the screw and cover, the door latch inner handle and cover, the triangle trim over the mirror joystick and anything else I'm forgetting-
we will cover wiring in a bit, I'm tired of typing- LOL

Geek-Squad-Man

Ok- as for wiring.....

First you'll need an Appropriate door lock/unlock switch-
I found this one on EBAY for like 13 bucks plus shipping brand new:


Next you'll need some relays and sockets-
I discovered this AWESOME site a while ago and they have EVERYTHING you could ever want, its called Parts Express
From them I got the two relays I needed and a DOUBLE socket, pre-wired for door locks:




Heres the relays plugged into the socket:



I'll also attach the FREE wire diagram parts express sent me:


So - if you get the same stuff I did, then the wiring is cake!

Run your Blue and green wires from each door-lock motor so that they meet-up somewhere under the steering column-
Strip and tie-together the 2 greens and the 2 blues and crimp a male insulated spade terminal on both green wires together on one and both blues on another.

Now, using the double socket and the wire diagram above make the Dark blue wires the feeds to the door lock motors with a insulated FEMALE spade on each so they could go into either green pair or blue pair coming from the door locks.
tie the fat yellow and the small white together and run them to constant 12volts ON ALL THE TIME -with or without the key-
The fat reds you tie together with the single small black wire coming from the Spal switch you got, and ground them to a good ground source-

the other 2 plain black wires in the double relay plug goes to either side of the Spal switch. (I also left a little "tail" on each of these so I can tie in my Viper alarms Negative outputs for open and close)

So now all you have to do is try it! At first, mine worked backwards, because the blue wires can go either way as well as the blacks going to the switch, all I had to do is swap one pair and it worked fine!

-REMEMBER!!- Our Civics like most Honda wont lock on the drivers side unless the door is shut or you hold the inner door handle open so you don't get locked out, but as long as the doors shut when you test it, everything should work fine!
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Now, you have to get creative and mark and cut the dummy plate that's above the little storage bin to the lower left of the steering wheel(see pic)
I used a Dremel to cut it out rough and then careful work with an X-acto knife to get it perfect-
I took the metal clips out of the trim-ring that came with the Spal switch and once I got it to fit in the dummie plate, I glued it with a drop of superglue-
Once the glue dries you can snap the switch in, and run the wires over to where they need to goI had to move over my switch for interior lights to the small dummie plate)

Once you remove the Phillips screw in the pic, the whole storage bin drops down and has two small snaps at the bottom that pop out easy (pay attention not to loose your condoms and packs of Wendy's salt and pepper that's in your storage! LOL)

TRIZ

iTrader: (14)

Nice job man, looks pretty good!

Geek-Squad-Man

BUMP! C'mon people vote!!! LOL

Geek-Squad-Man

Thanx for the votes guys!

Hopefully The weather will hold out this weekend and I can install the Viper alarm............

Power door locks are nice , but keyless entry is MUCH needed!!!!!

Geek-Squad-Man

Well kids, I got my Viper 5900 Alarm in today, it works well .

Now I have to install the trunk popper solenoid and the Transponder Immobilizer box so the Remote start will work without the key being in the ignition!

Prob get to that later in the week!

Thanx again for reading my DIY-

Make sure and vote!

skipbarber

iTrader: (34)

trunk popper solenoid, or a latch from an 01-02 accord with built in actuator? it bolts right in..

DeX

No pictures at work! Got to look at this when I get home.

sicma99ot

good stuff. your "lil vp" is comming along quickly lol

DeX

Damnit, I thought it was power windows. Nice job though!

KenNakanote

Just read this DIY and have to say THANK YOU. I get a little discount if I have a alarm/antitheft system in my 05 Dx Sedan. If I can gather enough courage than I may attempt this mod. 4 doors...

Please keep updates with your remote trunk opening, and viper alarm install. You are doing the exact upgrades I had in mind. It's nice sometimes when you search the forum and find exactly what you are looking for.

Thanks Again For Taking The Time To Post
Ken

DeX

Remote trunk release has been done many times, I have it on mine. It's a simple bolt on part from the Accord.

Geek-Squad-Man

I am not doing the trunk popper with any Honda part.

I'm using the Viper trunk-pop solenoid, and relays-

When I get around to doing it, I'll post pics.

Thanks for all the kind words from everyone EXCEPT DeX.