You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, so please join our community today!
No converter necessary, however you do NEED a fuse. You also need some sort of switch, unless you want the neon to be on 24-7, even when the car is turned off. And to wire up the switch properly requires a relay.
of course its possible to wire it straight to the positive on the battery, and a negative anywhere else...but you have to remember your battery is always working so your lights will always be on if you do it that way.
what you actually WANT to do is wire your lights directly into a switch, then from that switch you want the wire to go through an inline fuse, and then from that fuse, you want to connect that to your positive source. that way you will always have a constant power source, but you can break the circuit or reconnect it simply by hitting the on/off switch.
depending on the type of neon lighting, you could use different sources for power and wont need as much juice for some. i have flatbar led underglow mounted on my car, and since leds use literally next to nothing power, i didnt even go to the battery, i connected it directly into a fuse in the fuse box which worked nice and clean. i hate a cluttered battery terminal. if you have the bigger tubes that are non-led, you might want to go with connecting it right to the battery to get more power feed.
ive been through this setup a bunch of times. ive done it afew times on my own, and a few times with cars of friends....if you have any other questions, i can probably help you out with the best solution. ive tried and had problems and success with a bunch of different methods.
I wired all the LED lights (not neon tubes, but strip LED, really bright, good because they bend to any shape and waterproof) them underneath the back seats and dash ... i connected all the LED lights to a switch which i placed it somewhere under the steering wheel (hidden, like a hidden button).
So when i switch the lights on, the whole floor lights up blue, including the back floor.
They actually came out better than i thought. Sorry i dont take any pictures at the moment, but will soon ... thanks everyone for your help....
yea my interior is so blue at night its almost blinding when you open the door to get in/out. if i can get a few pictures soon and you guys want the sources for the lights ill let you know where i got them.
does LED lights seem like over kill with HIDs and an amp?? Of course they wont always be on at the same time.
But I love how Untuned's car looks and im getting some LEDs myself, i was gonna put them inside the car, but now irather have them out... lol
yes im ricer
no that wont harm your power at all, an hid system only sucks up a fair bit of power when it ignites, after that it runs i think at around 35 watts, it runs with less power than a stock halogen bulb (supposed to anyway). and with leds, they suck up next to no power. i left my interior lights on (which are all leds) by accident, then i left to go camping. i came back 4 or 5 days later to see my lights inside were still on, the car started just as if nothing was on the whole time.
thats the same reason that when you install led bulbs in place of regular bulbs your car hyperblinks. the leds take so little power that your car thinks the real bulb is burned out. you can have all of that on at once and it wont ever cause a problem. i always do.
oh i dont know about that kit man...theres a few issues with it that i can already see. 1) that not only looks like an interior kit (making me question how weather proof it is) 2) theyre also very very fat tubes so youll be able to see them from literally anywhere on the road unless you figure out some way to cover them. 3) they look like regular light tubes which consume way way more power, and 4) and theyre very very easily breakable if theyre those plexiglass fat tubes.
if you want i can find you a link to the same guy i purchased my kit from. its a varad kit and its supposedly the best on the market. ive actually purchased 2 from him and it has pretty much everything you need included.
also, i wouldnt use that cigarette adaptor, youll end up wanting to use your outlet for something else later on. id definitely wire a switch in somewhere. mine is placed on that little piece of plastic that pops out next to the cigarette lighter outlet, and unless you knew our cars, youd think its factory.
i have my switch mounted next to the cigarette lighter. my positive runs from my switch, through the firewall, then connects to a fuse in the fuse box. my negative runs from the switch, through the firewall, and connects to a bolt on the vehicle body thats also next to the fusebox. i have an inline fuse on the positive located just before the positive wire hits the fusebox.
mine wasnt very easy, then again the way i set mine up it should be good for a very long time. its also very clean. it took me about 4-5 hours in total. i soldered everything as well. i made my rear/passenger side light bars into one single pos/neg set of wires, did the same thing for the front/driver side, then i ran that to the engine bay. i put those two sets of mains together with my grill wires, to make one main positive and one main negative. after running the pos through the switch and inline fuse, connected it to the fusebox, then connected the ground to the chassis.
the light bars underneath (2 @ 24" and 2 @ 48") i measured out to be sitting right centered on the sideskirts and on the front/rear. i drilled holes in the bottom inside part of the sideskirt to be able to zip tie them up instead of using their garbage screw tab things. those are crap.
i removed and put on a new kit this year though and i changed my setup a little bit.
nice nice, sounds very clean... but too much work for me =D i was lazy all i did was ran the neons wires to my switch, spliced into my 12v outlet wires and then ran it back to my switch, very simple and so far its good...only problems was 3M doubleside tape = failure, even after adhesive glue lol, oh well..zip ties never fail =)
that system is for a red kit. the kit i have is blue. if you look through his store, there are different colours. i think there is red, blue, and white.
anyway, the kits are excellent quality, ive installed them on 4 different cars before and all still work great. i did though silicone over the ends on both sides just to be sure. these are great because they are all leds which are way brighter and consume next to no power, theyre flatbars which sit nice and high and dont risk getting broken, and because theyre less noticeable on the car from a distance. i have mine completely covered up on the sides so you see nothing but the light on the ground.
but yeah, id suggest a one colour kit. the multi colour kits are ok in the sense that you can change your colour by choice, but they are also not as bright. a blue 48" bar may have 15 leds along it that are blue...where the multicoloured 48" bar may have 30 leds, 10 of which are blue, 10 red, 10 yellow, and those combine to make your other colours...so say you only want red, you only have 10 leds on compared to the 15 from the all red kit. all by choice though. i think the multicoloured changing ones just look tacky.
well each light bar has two wires. a positive and a negative.
you can place your lightbars on however/wherever you choose. each one has about 10-15 ft of wire attached to it. then you have to run your wires along the underbody, or inside through the plastic fender covers, etc etc....wherever you see best to help protect them. in the end what you want is all 4 of your negative wires to connect to create a master negative wire, and all 4 of your positive wires to connect to create a master positive wire.
my rear and passenger side bars both have their negatives soldered together at one point and create one negative wire...same thing with the positive. i also have the same thing for the front and driver side. i then have those two main positives and negatives joining together to have one master positive and one master negative for the system.
the master negative goes up into the engine bay and has a ring terminal connected on the end, and i have that grounded to a bolt below the fusebox, so its grounded to the vehicle. the master positive goes up into the vehicle through the firewall and connects to a switch next to my cigarette lighter power source. it then runs from the switch back through the firewall again and up into the engine bay where i have it attached to an inline fuse (same as you have for your power wire going to your amp) and then i have it connected to a positive fuse in the fusebox. i chose to connect it to a fuse instead of the positive power just so it keeps my battery area clean.
that setup will let you have a permanent ground for your system, a permanent power supply that is controlled by your on/off switch. you will also have that inline fuse thats located up near your fusebox on your positive wire for protection.
i just recently bought an interior kit from ledunderbody.com
its the 4 pc 7 color kit with a music sensor so it strobes to the bass, i jst want to install it to the battery. i looked in my car. i need to drill a hole through the fire wall. but idk where the best place to hook up the wires. like can i through the fuse box. or should i splice it and wrap it around the battery?
IMO just jam the wires into the socket for your altenator fuse, cuz with any luck, you will soon realize that NEON LIGHTS ARE GAY and remove them with little or no effort! neon lighting FTL
__________________ For Sale:
Turbo Manifold - $100
RSX-S Injectors - $70
Greddy Emanage - $350
01-03 RS Grill - $50 Car for sale as well
Contact via email or text aswell: email@example.com
506-647-6458 2005 Honda Civic SE Coupe