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No converter necessary, however you do NEED a fuse. You also need some sort of switch, unless you want the neon to be on 24-7, even when the car is turned off. And to wire up the switch properly requires a relay.
of course its possible to wire it straight to the positive on the battery, and a negative anywhere else...but you have to remember your battery is always working so your lights will always be on if you do it that way.
what you actually WANT to do is wire your lights directly into a switch, then from that switch you want the wire to go through an inline fuse, and then from that fuse, you want to connect that to your positive source. that way you will always have a constant power source, but you can break the circuit or reconnect it simply by hitting the on/off switch.
depending on the type of neon lighting, you could use different sources for power and wont need as much juice for some. i have flatbar led underglow mounted on my car, and since leds use literally next to nothing power, i didnt even go to the battery, i connected it directly into a fuse in the fuse box which worked nice and clean. i hate a cluttered battery terminal. if you have the bigger tubes that are non-led, you might want to go with connecting it right to the battery to get more power feed.
ive been through this setup a bunch of times. ive done it afew times on my own, and a few times with cars of friends....if you have any other questions, i can probably help you out with the best solution. ive tried and had problems and success with a bunch of different methods.
i have an interior glow kit but im not really interested in installing it. i have blue super bright led dome lights in the front dome light and in the back, so the whole inside is really bright blue.
the map lights are super white incase i need to actually 'see' or read something. but those only come on if i actually press them on.
the lighting is all undercar and in the grill/front air duct.
I wired all the LED lights (not neon tubes, but strip LED, really bright, good because they bend to any shape and waterproof) them underneath the back seats and dash ... i connected all the LED lights to a switch which i placed it somewhere under the steering wheel (hidden, like a hidden button).
So when i switch the lights on, the whole floor lights up blue, including the back floor.
They actually came out better than i thought. Sorry i dont take any pictures at the moment, but will soon ... thanks everyone for your help....
yea my interior is so blue at night its almost blinding when you open the door to get in/out. if i can get a few pictures soon and you guys want the sources for the lights ill let you know where i got them.
does LED lights seem like over kill with HIDs and an amp?? Of course they wont always be on at the same time.
But I love how Untuned's car looks and im getting some LEDs myself, i was gonna put them inside the car, but now irather have them out... lol
yes im ricer
no that wont harm your power at all, an hid system only sucks up a fair bit of power when it ignites, after that it runs i think at around 35 watts, it runs with less power than a stock halogen bulb (supposed to anyway). and with leds, they suck up next to no power. i left my interior lights on (which are all leds) by accident, then i left to go camping. i came back 4 or 5 days later to see my lights inside were still on, the car started just as if nothing was on the whole time.
thats the same reason that when you install led bulbs in place of regular bulbs your car hyperblinks. the leds take so little power that your car thinks the real bulb is burned out. you can have all of that on at once and it wont ever cause a problem. i always do.
based on the picture, aside from a switch, what else would I need to hook them up underneath the car. Btw, any ideas on where to put a switch? I am out of room
oh i dont know about that kit man...theres a few issues with it that i can already see. 1) that not only looks like an interior kit (making me question how weather proof it is) 2) theyre also very very fat tubes so youll be able to see them from literally anywhere on the road unless you figure out some way to cover them. 3) they look like regular light tubes which consume way way more power, and 4) and theyre very very easily breakable if theyre those plexiglass fat tubes.
if you want i can find you a link to the same guy i purchased my kit from. its a varad kit and its supposedly the best on the market. ive actually purchased 2 from him and it has pretty much everything you need included.
also, i wouldnt use that cigarette adaptor, youll end up wanting to use your outlet for something else later on. id definitely wire a switch in somewhere. mine is placed on that little piece of plastic that pops out next to the cigarette lighter outlet, and unless you knew our cars, youd think its factory.
