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Detailed D17 NA Build Research-ideas updated 10/13


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Old 08-21-2007   #16 (permalink)
TRIZ
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iTrader: (9)
Re: suggestions

Figure anything out about what valves are good to run?
Overbored +1mm, +.5MM?
Bigger on exhaust or intake side?

I'm about to get the valves taken care of while the head is apart. I need to valve guides also.

I talked to my machine shop guy, he said +1mm would be too much, but +.5MM looked about right. He also said the aftermarket valves out there arent any better then the stockers if your going with the standard bore sized. He also said it looked like it might be better to run bigger on exhaust then on intake side. I dont understand his theory behind this. Wanna hollar at one of your contacts and confirm this, and ask above questions?
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Old 08-25-2007   #17 (permalink)
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Re: suggestions

ok just for a little update i have sent emails to wiseco and to energy dynamics. I am waiting for replys from both. is there any other companies that you guys would suggest for pistons? i emailed energy dynamics about some head work and also asked them your questions TRIZ. i looked around and mostly i gathered that a 1mm overbore is only useful on FI and very demanding NA cars which i dont think ours would be. the energy dynamics company has some good reading articles and many good engine services. they seem to really know there shit (they developed 17+ :1 compression engines )so im looking into them for the headwork instead of KMS. if you guys search on here, there is a guy that did the stage 2 P&P from KMS and some other mods on an lx auto and made it to 110whp (about 30 whp gain without a camshaft upgrade) so im thinking this NA setup might prove some ppl wrong. o and i the looked up the displacement and it comes out to be just shy of 1.8 liter with the 77mm bore so that would be a nice increase. i think that is all i have to update on i will keep you guys posted thanks
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Old 08-26-2007   #18 (permalink)
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Re: suggestions

Holy shit, Darton only charges $500 to install their sleeves??? Duuuuude. That's very good news.

You're doing some fantastic research here man. Keep it up. Rep applied.
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Old 08-28-2007   #19 (permalink)
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Re: suggestions

ok well i received an email from wiseco:
Brentt,
We can custom make the part for that bore and whatever compression you would like. Cost is approximately $139.36 each (includes rings,pins,clips and coated skirts) and it takes 4-5 weeks.
Best Regards,

Wiseco Piston Co. Inc.


-----Original Message-----

Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 12:49 AM
To: Questions
Subject: custom size piston


Hi i was emailing you to see if a custom 77mm piston can be made for the D17 Honda Civic motor. i know you have the stock bore in a 8.8 compression and i was wondering what options there would be. can i gets a few prices on to what this would cost thanks.

Brentt Campbell



So that would make it like $520 i believe for the pistons. triz no word yet on your questions. I have to go to class but i thought i would share this with you guys. I'm thinking this could come together. later

Last edited by civic-driver : 08-28-2007 at 12:25 PM.
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Old 08-28-2007   #20 (permalink)
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iTrader: (9)
Re: suggestions

Hmm, that looks like it would be cheaper to go custom then buying from a seller like dezod- no? Nevermind, Price is 500 now. 20 bucks more for a custom set though... In a heartbeat I'd pay the difference if I was in the market for pistons.

Is our motor even capable of handeling 77mm?

Last edited by TRIZ : 08-28-2007 at 02:41 PM.
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Old 08-28-2007   #21 (permalink)
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Re: suggestions

What would make it not capable? just curious as to what you are talking about like what standpoint?
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Old 08-29-2007   #22 (permalink)
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Re: suggestions

Piston wall material being too thin to support the sleeves that get installed in them. They may become a floating bottom deck too, if they're bored out too large.
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Old 08-29-2007   #23 (permalink)
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Re: suggestions

can you explain that a little better speedfoos? are you saying the sleeves themselves could possibly be too thin? or are you saying the block around the sleeve might be to thin to support what the sleeve isnt? if im not making sense just tell me but i would like to understand this and im not sure what is ment by floating bottom deck. im looking around and not finding much on the subjects other than they are bad but not what they are. thanks man
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Old 08-29-2007   #24 (permalink)
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iTrader: (15)
Re: suggestions

No problem. It basically means the piston chamber would be too thin and separate from the bottom of the block. It's a combination of the sleeves and remainder of the stock cylinder being too thin to remain stable and either separating from the bottom of the block or possibly even changing their inclination and subsequently bending/breaking a rod.

Here is our block with 75mm bores and stock sleeves. And the other side as well. The third picture is to try get down into the water jacket so you can see the block to piston chamber transition, but it didn't turn out so well. Bottom line is that we're not dealing with a lot of excess material here which is why we can't bore these motors out and throw 80mm pistons in them.

Hope that helps.





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Old 08-29-2007   #25 (permalink)
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Re: suggestions

I havent taken my motor apart yet, but how deep is the area around the cylinders that the coolant/water flows? Someone should take calipers and measure the thickness of the walls and he diam. of the cylinder outter edge to outter edge~ i'm guessing like 80-85mm or something?
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Old 08-29-2007   #26 (permalink)
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Re: suggestions

OK, here's some measurements w/o calipers, just small flexible straight edge.

Distance from top of cylinder wall to bottom of water jacket: This varies a little but is between 107-109mm (it slopes at the bottom)

ID of cylinder = 75mm
OD of cylinder = 88mm (you were close Triz)
So thickness = 8mm

Wall thickness at chamber transitions (3rd pic) = Thinnest point is still 8mm and thickest point is 15mm
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Old 08-29-2007   #27 (permalink)
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Re: suggestions

ok so with the overbore it would be only 6mm at the thinnest and 13 at the thickest. hmm i guess i should try and find what would be an acceptable thickness is there anything else i should look for? and thanks for all the help guys.
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Old 08-30-2007   #28 (permalink)
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Re: suggestions

ok well after looking around for a while i found some info on what is an acceptable thickness for the cylinder walls. they said on big block v8s and similar hot rod style cars around 5.1 to 4.5 mm thickness is acceptable on 600-700hp cars and on performance 4 cylinders 4.1-3.5 is acceptable some VW engines will even go down to 2.5 without problems supposedly. anyway with this info that makes me feel more than comfortable when using aftermarket sleeves. these thicknesses were from stock sleeved engines so ya. So as long as the darton sleeves have the same OD then the thickness should be more than acceptable. thanks for the help on that guys anything else i should look out for? and im still waiting on an answers to the valve questions.
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Old 08-30-2007   #29 (permalink)
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iTrader: (9)
Re: suggestions

Double check and make sure all thoes engines were made from aluminum like yours is. If they have some carbon or titanium block, it will of course change the rigidity and wall thickness.

Thanks for the measurements foos! (+rep, gotta spread more love first)

Heres some for you too civic-driver for doing all the research!
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Old 09-02-2007   #30 (permalink)
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Re: suggestions

This is very interesting. Good job with all the research. It actually looks like you are getting some answers. Keep repping the a1. Some rep for you.
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