torontob

Hi Everyone,

There are many bolts that can be opened mistakenly when one is under the car. I want to change automatic transmission fluid. Can someone point me to a digram online to show which bolt to open to do this job?

All I know is that it is probably on the driver side.

Thanks

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

If you look from the passenger side across you will see a plug with square opening near bottom (uses a 3/8ths ratchet or breaker bar drive)

torontob

Some pics posted below shows all the bolts I see on the transmission but none of them seem to fit the 3/8 socket I have (maybe only rachet works?).

I also have some pics of how I have the stands used as I could not find ANY arrows pointing anywhere for where to put the jack stands or the jack....

Please PINPOINT the filler bolt for transmission if you know which one it is. Honda Civic 2009 Automatic Transmission 4DR DX+Air Conditioner.

Thanks

MasterCraft Socket Set A:


MasterCraft Socket Set A:


Passenger Side Stand A


Passenger Side Stand B


Driver Side Stand


No Arrows found for stand:


Transmission-1


Transmission-2


Transmission-3


Transmission-4


Transmission-5


Transmission-6
http://oi56.tinypic.com/28va89u.jpg


Thanks

torontob

Looking from the passenger side it's hard to see anything as it seems that all the bolts are between the two front tires. Below are the many many pics I took. I am wondering if there is a schematic or diagram for these things online. (P.S. Manually is stupidly useless and it shows Manual Transmission filler bolt where mine is Automatic...why would I need that?!) - Please see pics below...thanks.

Also, are my jack stand put in proper place?

Passenger Side Look - A


Passenger Side Look - B


Passenger Side Look - C

CraigW

iTrader: (1)

The plug with the blue on it in transmission 4.

You don't use the socket... only the 3/8th's ratchet.

torontob

Blue is on the compartment. The blue dot is on the part of compartment facing the ground and also a bit to it left another blue dot facing passenger side. Neither of those is a bolt. It's surface area.

Thanks

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

yeah take the socket off, you use the square part of the wrench and stick in that bluish bolt with a square hole. in this pic its staring at you lol

torontob

Blue is on the compartment. The blue dot is on the part of compartment facing the ground and also a bit to it left another blue dot facing passenger side. Neither of those is a bolt. It's surface area.

B and C in picture below are just surface areas. Where you referring to A?



Thanks

torontob

I see it's A you are refering too. Wondering if it had cost more than $0.10 to actually mark it freaking Ransmission Fluid Filler Bolt.

:-) Thanks a lot though.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

A ftw! you got it. make sure to change the washer too before putting the bolt back on. also, wipe the inside bolt magnet clean.

scott37300

Bingo, A is the one you are looking for. No socket needed, just the ratchet or an extension if needed. The jack stands look ok but the best test is to give the car a shake before you get under it to see if it will fall, better to fall then than to fall while you under it. Also put your tire under it close to the front so if it were to fall the tire would give a little blocking.

torontob

Amazing tips guys. The bolt would open towards the front of the car (counter clock-wise).

1- I probably didn't insert the ratchet all the way the first attempt and when I used another tool to pull the ratchet it stripped the bolt. Picture below shows it. Please advise if I should change it on next Transmission fluid change or not? It still has good grip as it's the two sides of the very tip only. I see that it's outside is round so it does get full stripped then there is no way to open it easily.

2- I have attached pictures of why the washer should be changed as it was deformed during the the last or initial (since it's only a year old car) torque that was done on this bolt.

3- Finally, I don't have a tool to show me how much torque or pressure I put on this. Should I use a tool to bang the ratchet as I tighten the bolt like I did when I was opening it or should I just use my full power to close it and leave it at that?

4- The pump jack I am using has a a little screw like **** that I turn to left and it drops all a sudden and scares me a bit if the jack stand will hold. Is that how pump jacks work? Caz it's soon time to take it off the stand and the car for a 5 minute ride I should?

Stripped View - A


Stripped View - B


Washer Change Needed

scott37300

The bolt appears to still have some good square left to it but it's hard to tell. It only gets torqued to 36 ft. lbs. so it's not that tight. If you are worried about it you can look for one to replace it next change. The wheel lugs are somewhere between 80-100 just for reference. So you shouldn't need to bang on the wrench at all, just tighten it up by hand.

Pump jacks have a tendency to "drop" at once, especially the less expensive little ones. Just be carefull.

torontob

Thanks for clarifications.

Sorry, i am not sure how much 36 ft. lbs. would be in this case as my ratchet tool can't be set to any number (it's a basic one). But I will tighten it as much as possible and check for leaks for few days.

I am also not sure what this sentence means, "The wheel lugs are somewhere between 80-100 just for reference." - Please explain :-)

Oh, I get it. The wheel bolts that I always jump on to tighten it is 80-100 ft. lbs so the filler bolt is 1/3 of that in force therefore the hand should do...

thanks

scott37300

Sounds like you got it. Just be carful not to over tighten the bolt and strip the threads out. Try to tighten it as much as it took to take it out by feel.

Hopefully you got it all figured out, I will be doing this in the next couple weeks.

torontob

I took the car for a spin. I really don't know if there was a difference as it's automatic transmissions and the car was bought new June 2009 and it has 67k on it. But I think I missed one fluid change which should have been done at 30k.

After fill I had just touching the upper mark on the gauge. After a spin the fluid gauges between the upper and lower mark. I am wondering if it leaked or if as my garage is just a bit tilted to the front it makes a difference or if the fluid is suckd into other compartments. I have placed a clean container underneath for the night to see if it leaks or not. Hopefully there is no leak.
Following picture shows a 3.78L Anti-Freeze container that I filled with the drained out fluid. I think it's about 2L that came out. I filled up with 2L and 1/4 quart which is = 2.36 US quart.

For my questions now:

1- This was a new automatic car bought in June 2009 and never had transmission fluid change (First time went to dealer for free service but I don't know what they did), and it has 67,000 Km on it. The manual says when the maintainer code comes on then do a change. But it's ambiguous. I think it's B3 but I am not sure. Even if it is, I doubt it ever came up. However the mechanic at Honda told me that it should have came up long ago. So, should I redo this process again in a week time to compensate for the long time?

2- I was told that looking at the color really is not something that one can use to tell if fluid needs a change. So, then what is? And how often should you really change it specially when the maintainer is only a timer counter rather than a true sensor.

3- Is it okay to use the same funnel to fill up engine oil, anti-freez, brake fluid, use it to funnel Beer inside (I gotta say everyone should try that :-), and then re-use it? What I am trying to say is if washing the funnel is fine or using it with multiple different fluids is fine as long as it's rinsed with water afterwards.

4- Where should I dispose of the fluid? water drain on the street :-) or pay Canadian Tire for it? Even though the government rip of charge for disposal is already on the receipt for the new fluid I bought but I don't think that helps me.

For other's reference, following is a picture of all the tools you will need. I used the adjustable wrench end at the end of the ratchet to loosen the filler bolt of the transmission but that try stripped the bolt a bit. So, next I used the heavy tip of the adjustable wrench to bang against the ratchet which did the job and opened the bolt.

As you can see through this thread, I had a hard time finding the filler bolt and it might be a problem for any newbie specially if the under car is not clean. And I think each car model has it at a different place anyhow....

I had a ready pan with a plastic bag cover the inside, that way my pan remained cleaned and I didn't have to spend $13 for a pan for this purpose. Once all the fluid was out, I made a little hole in the plastic and poured it in the empty anti-freeze container to be disposed later.

Following is my cost:

Washer and 3L (3 bottles) of the new Transmission Fluid : $32
Pump Jack + 2 Jack Stands + 2 Tire Stoppers - Canadian Tire : $51.96
Nice Funnel with Quart, Liter, and Oz measurements : $7.50
Total : $91.46
Saved : $158.20- 91.46 = ~$66
Time Spent : One evening on and off and back & forth on this forum.

Learned & Experience = Priceless
Future savings for same job since I have tools now = ~$120

***I should mention that I had a $140+tax quote from Green & Ross for a rip-off transmission flush which a Honda should never have.

I had the ratchet and adjustable tool at home already.

Old Fluid:


All you need for transmission fluid change:

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

wow ive never seen a washer like that before. must have been seriously overtightened last time. make sure to check the fluid after the car has been driven alot like 30 mins and leave the car running while you check the level.

torontob

I think this washer came from company like that as I doubt that Honda dealer tightened it when they did the courtesy service after 2 months I bought the car.

What about my points 1, 2, 3, and 4? I would appreciate it if you weigh in as your name suggests to be an expert of the transmissions.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

1. i recommend one drain and fill every year. do not do more than one at a time because too much old fluid will be replaced. it could cause deposits to loosen up and cause clogging. since you have 06+ civic, there is also an external trans fluid filter you should change.

2. drain and fill each year. good fluid is bright red, okay fluid is dark red, bad fluid is orange or black.

3. do not use the same funnel for oil and antifreeze. even if you rinse it out.

4. most auto stores take used motor oil. and trans fluid classifies as oil. ive even brought some fluids to the dealer with no problems. even antifreeze (which is technically okay to dump in the toilet). never dispose of oil any other way except taking to the recycling center.

torontob

Thanks for the input.

There is no mention of changing the filter in the manual. This forum's users also suggest just draining. I wish these rules were more clear.

My understanding is that filter is not easily reachable?!

Are you sure it needs to be changed on a Honda Civic DX-G 4DR AUTOMATIC Transmission which was bought new in June 2008 and has 67,000 km on it without any previous transmission fluid changes?

Thanks

MindBomber

On 01-05 Civics the filter is not reachable, it's inside the transmission itself, but your lucky because your filter is located underneath the battery and can be changed. Honda says it will last forever, but I would change it every 100k km; it's basically cheap insurance against future problems.

It's basically impossible to actually strip the drain bolt, you could change it next time, but I honestly wouldn't bother.

Now we have the exact same jack stands, so I can give you a couple tips on using that set. -One of your jack stands could hold up the entire weight of your car, I've held up a truck with mine before, as long as their in the right place you won't have a problem.
-It's not a great idea to lower the car/jack quickly, but if you turn the little **** by hand its very difficult to slowly lower it, so take the handle off your jack and put the end over the **** and turn slowly. You'll have much more control that way and you'll be able to lower the car slowly.
-If you ever take your wheels off then you need to put the lug nuts back on at 80ftlbs, thats very tight, so take the plastic handle off your jack and it should slide right over the end of your ratchet, the extra length will give you enough leverage to get the lug nuts tight enough.

Congrats on your first DIY, it will all get easier from here and you have the tools to do 90% of tasks your car will ever need now.

torontob

Thanks for all the help.

I also noticed that it's impossible to strip the bolt to a point where it won't open or close as only tips can get stripped but not inside or the whole cap should break.

I also noticed the jack slow turn of the **** after a little scary moment of car drop on jack stand. But thanks for the tip on using the handle. It was too much to read the manual I guess :-)

Now time to take the car for a free engine oil change and other check ups that Green & Ross does (I think it's my free oil change turn so might as well use it).

I probably opt to do that myself next time as well, but I understand there is much more work involved with a Bx or Ax services than filling engine oil and changing it's filter (which in itself might be more work than transmission fluid change).

I hope these pics stay on tinypic and helps someone else. I am impressed at the speed that helpers post back on this forum and thank you again for all the help provided.

MindBomber

Any maintenance you want to DIY we should be able to help you with, it's a bit more work to do an oil change but still very simple. The first DIY is always the hardest, after that its all pretty simple!

scott37300

I don't think anyone answered this yet but the reason the fluid level goes down after you drive it is because there are tons of little passages the fluid has to travel threw in the valve bodies and other places it needs to get distributed threwout. While driving and shifting gears the fluid gets everywhere it needs to be and your fluid will be lower on the dipstick. That is why it's important to double check after a good drive, I always keep the partial bottle and funnel in the car after a service just in case I need to top off.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

i have the same filter on my car and change it every 1-2 yrs. its only $20 and it does get clogged up. cheap insurance if you want the trans to last.

Prodresurgence

Good job man... but next time use the tire you took off not the doughnut. haha this picture is a riot. The doughnut wouldn't save you from getting crushed, the bottom of the car wouldn't even touch it.

torontob

You are right :-) it is too thin. I just didn't want to take out a tire.

To be honest, first time going under the car was scary but each time I shook the car a bit heavily to make sure it is stable.

I am still not very clear on where the jack and stands should go. If you zoom my pictures you will see that there is a ridge and that is where I put the stands while I used behind the ridge (more toward inside of the car) as the point for jacking the car up. As I know I will need to do this more, I would like to know which parts of the car are strong to support the jack and it's stands.

P.S. I drove the car today and when it was ON I gauge the fluid and it was fluctuating drastically over upper mark and then on the lower mark....so it wasn't consistent reading. I turned off and my measurements were all between the upper and lower mark.

MindBomber

There are three areas that you can safely put your jack stand.

The ridge you used; the four jacking points, which you can find in your owners manual; and the tow hooks in the front and rear of the car.

scott37300

This is what the honda service manual says to check the fluid.

2. Start the engine, and warm it up to normal operating temperature (the radiator
fan comes on), and turn the engine off. Do not allow the engine to warm up
more than two cycles of the cooling fan.
3. Remove the dipstick (yellow loop) (A), and wipe it with a clean cloth.

Fig. 216: Identifying Dipstick (Yellow Loop)
Courtesy of AMERICAN HONDA MOTOR CO., INC.

4. Insert the dipstick into the transmission.
5. Remove the dipstick and check the fluid level. It should be between the upper
mark (A) and the lower mark (B).

NOTE: Check the fluid level within 60-90 seconds after turning
the engine off. Higher fluid level may be indicated if the

radiator fan comes on twice or more.

I have always checked auto transmissions with the car running but honda says to let it warm up and then shut off to check.

gearbox

iTrader: (95)

if you check it within 5 seconds of turning the car off, it should be fine. they say that so you dont get your shirt sleeve stuck in a moving belt or gear. its for safety not accuracy. as soon as you turn the car off the trans fluid level will start to rise. so its super easy to get a false reading with that method.