Zaphod

My wife hit a curb in her '09 Civic Hybrid. It was obvious that it had steering issues, so we went to our tire shop which happened to be a mile away. They replaced lower control arm (seemed sensible), ball joint (seemed odd), and a wheel bearing (seemed odd at the time, but I read that they are finicky to abuse), plus alignment. Normally I'd do most repairs myself, but paid to have it done in the hopes of getting it back on the road since we're down a car in the family already. False hope!

Big problem now is the steering won't self-center, and is stiff. I was peeved that the shop said it was fixed, and somehow thought this was OK. Long story short, it ended up at the dealer and they say it needs a rack, for $2000, which really I can't afford on top of the $650 I'm already down.

It'll be nice weather this weekend, and I see a rebuilt/aftermarket unit on-line for $500. Or a salvage unit for under $400. I've read the 7th gen rack change DIY and found a post somewhere for a normal 8th gen Civic that made it seem harder (have to droop the subframe, they say).

How bad is this job, really, with ramps/jackstands in a driveway? Is rack work on my 8th gen HCH much worse than the 7th gen sticky DIY approach? Is there a DIY for this anywhere on the web that I've failed to find?

Other than the obvious hazard of no self-center to make my commute more fun, what risk do I face if I drive it like this for a few days/weeks?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

ezone

EPS steering rack can certainly be damaged in an accident as can any other......

I just did one on an Si that got curbed. Insurance company sourced a used EPS rack for us to install.

That took 2 tries before we got one that was decent, the first one they sent was also damaged in a crash.

I drop the subframe to replace the rack.
In a shop it's fairly easy, but I can't tell you what it would be like working in a home garage without a hoist.

At least there isn't steering fluid to make a mess with LOL



Pics of a regular 8th gen subframe taken during an engine block replacement, subframe is on a jig affixed to our transmission jack:



Rack is bolted to the subframe from above, all fasteners are now easily accessible.


I take the horizontal bolts out of these subframe ears so it can go back in the same place, but since you are replacing the rack it will need a wheel alignment anyway so care here isn't really necessary IMO.

Zaphod

Thanks for the quick reply, ezone!

Not for the first time, I wish I had a shop with a lift. Nor likely the last.

This looks do-able. I can see why dropping the subframe makes sense.

If I can get it done for $500 labor I'll pay it. If not, I'll crawl under and give it a shot.

How risky is it to drive it? Is it likely to fail catastrophically?

Zaphod

ezone

Depends on what's wrong or what got damaged I guess, and you must assume all risks involved with driving something with damaged steering components.

The Si I just did had what appeared to be a bent rack (the long flat gear) causing it to bind up as you try to steer left of center. Was not safe to drive IMO.
I've seen other types and degrees of damage over the years too. Some major, some subtle.

Zaphod

Dropped the car off at the shop - went with a Honda-specialist individual shop and used rack. Half the cost of dealer new, but twice the cost of aftermarket DIY. Will report back next week on how it goes.

Car stalled first time I turned the wheel (glad I did not drive it today!). Brake system light came during the short drive to the shop. The story continues, I bet.

Zaphod

I heartily recommend NOT curbing your Civic!

I'm now into it for $2200, and not quite done. Steering rack, used. Knuckle. Bearing. Rod end. Alignment. Lots of labor.

If you do curb it, just get a salvage front corner. Hope you don't toast the rack -- $1000 new, or $500 used, for the electric version.

Mine aligned well and drives fine, except for vibration at speed. I think I still have a wheel to replace. Hopefully the tire isn't toast.

ezone

LOL which cars DO you recommend curbing?


This is why we tell customers to get their insurance company involved.



Raise it in the air, start it, put in gear, and let the wheels spin. Watch inner and outer edges of the rims for wobbles and bent spots. Watch the tire tread for runout and waddle.
If there's wobbles or anything then fix that first.
If all looks relatively straight as it spins, then check balance.


Or just rotate tires front to rear, see if the problem moves to the rear.

jordan1794

I imagine this one wouldn't have too much trouble.

Zaphod

Ha! I hit curbs at 45 degrees and square on in my old Bronco several times playing in the snow, with zero problems. It's the side-slap that really does damage!

Maybe eBay has a deal on a used wheel........